any tips on this or just straight forward? i got the summit kit.
also, there are 2 cables that lead to the positive end, one to the starter and one to the main fuse. do i need both to connect to the battery?

 

i would keep them cuz you'll need it..what ride are you putting it in...?

 

I would recommend insulating the wire with tin foil, and not running it through the firewall where the ECU wires go through.

 

crx

 

how can i keep both? i only have one cable for positive but the factory has 2 cables connected to the positive terminal..

 

there is a gromet on the ps behind the shock tower i used that when running wire for an amp along time ago when i cared about sound systems

 

What i did was get a battery terminal connector and soldered the wire that came with the kit into that terminal. Then bolted that terminal to the old terminal and wrapped it with a wire loom and lots o' duct tape.

Make sure you get a battery disconnect switch, otherwise you won't pass tech in any NHRA sanctioned track.

 

run your new main power wire straight to the starter, then cut another piece about a foot long and run that from your starter to the main fuse. So you will actually have two conectors on the starter. They should fit no problem.


[Modified by Wes d, 6:23 AM 1/24/2002]

 

I just relocated my battery to the back for more room,


used a gel Cell battery with some pretty cool terminals


I ran 0 gauge (OTT) wire all the way back (16 feet!) went through the firewall where the Evaporator core use to be at. I had a nice rubber grommet I used. The battery box is from Summit. I also used a 90amp Circuit breaker, 2 gauge ground wire to chasis.


This is my PDC 0 gauge in, 4 gauge going to Starter and Alternator then it has small outputs for MSD and other crap

Jeff

 

thanx abaz but thats way to complicated for me. i just did what the instructions say and protect the positive cable. 2 guage all around, negative grounded to trunk floor, and i also went thru the evaporator grommet thingy.

 

I could be way off, and please excuse me if i am, but why did you put a circuit breaker on your positive line? (Mabye i should clarify that- i am 100% aware of the necessity of having circuit breakers/fuse boxes in any automotive electrical system, the question is pertaining to that particular line) You realize that if for any reason that blows and you are, for example, on the freeway merging in between 2 18 wheelers doing 90 mph, you are screwed? This isnt a flame at all, im just trying to look out for you, because that is really unsafe IMO.

-Todd

 

hey abaz where did you get that circuit breaker thing I need one for mine also. hey did anyone else have problems with there ground I had to use 2 4awg to ground my engine and one more to the chassis.

 

Gymkhana,

I agree and disagree. There are many fuses in the fuse block in the car that do the same sort of thing. After 8 years of driving my car, the fuse that powers the fuel pump died last night while I was driving. I had just pulled off of the highway and was slowing for a stoplight, but 15 seconds sooner I would have been screwed. Basically what I'm saying is that I don't think it adds really any more danger than the fuses that are already in the system from the factory.

 

Question for everyone...

I used the hole for the AC evap or whatever, but the lead wire runs right across the top of the ECU. Is there any good way to shield it to avoid any possible interference. I see the tin foil, but that doesn't seem like it would do much.

Also, now I get stereo wine when I'm driving. Is that a grounding issue or another issue with where the lead runs? The lead runs from the center of the rear, up under/behind the rear seat, across to the passengers side, up to the front, and out the hole above the ECU. The stereo noise comes from the front and rear speakers, so I don't think its caused by the lead running near the speaker wires. Any thoughts?

 

My teacher at schoolt old met hat I need to get a thing to connect the 2 wires from the starter to the big battery cable I got. But no places seem to ahve them, he told me a hardware store.. I checekd, couldnt find one. My dad will get pissed if I electrical tape it, so, what is this thing that I need?

 

Usually when you have wine (sp?) coming from your stereo, It is because of a ground. Try grounding you deck to metal. Not the factory ground. You should be able to run a wire to a clean spot under your dash.

 

If something happened to trip the breaker, the something would be a short.

If you didn't have the breaker, the wire heats/melts and possibly starts a fire.

I'm not sure a dead ignition is quite a bad as plumes of burning plastic inside the car.......

Just a thought.

 

Hey how much is the summit kit?

 

I think its like 45 bucks.

 

I think my wine might be the chassis ground. I also relocated, and that's when it started. I'll redo the ground.

*** As for the $45 summit kit, is that sealed, or are you going with a sealed battery?

I went with the sealed moroso box. Its nice, but over priced. My batter was almost brand new, so I didn't want to buy a optima. I just wanted to make sure you weren't planning on using a normal battery, in a hatch, with a non-sealed plastic box.

 

Where do i wire the batter disconnect switch to

 

that box is cool

 

Yes Todd You in a way you are off, circuit breakers are not better then fuses, I mainly used this device for 2 reasons. Safety and convience. Basically this is a high amperage circuit breaker that will probably never trip, The power wire is highly secured. I tend to do alot of motor swaps and like to cut power to engine bay, with a breaker it can be done in a second..

and about merging between 2 18' wheelers in traffic and my breaker went off would probably be alot safer then a fuse since you have to replace the fuse itself where as the circuit breaker I just hit the switch (just over my shoulder in a crx) but I never could see anything like that happening.

If you dont understand why fuses are used in basic circuits you may need to do some reading up.. Protection devices are a must in just about any type of circuit.

Jeff

 

Well the point that i was trying to make, which i just reread and totally did not say is that in your stock honda electrical system, there is no fuse/circuit breaker (and BTW this is irrevalent which type- its still an interruption) inline from the battery to the starter or from the batter to the fuse box, which are the only 2 lines that Honda runs from the battery. So, moving the battery to the rear of the car, with a protection device installed, is undenibly less safe than leaving it in the front of the car with the lines intact. I understand your reasoning behind adding 12-15 feet of wire going to the rear of the car, and something could happen where the wire could go to ground and catch fire, but in my view that is unsafe to have an interruption like that. Ive asked a few other people and they see it my way too, so basically all i guess people should get from this post is that there are 2 ways to run the battery to the back of the car, with or without short protection, both ways have their positives and negatives.

Personally, when i run my battery to the rear of the car, no circuit breaker for me

-Todd

EDIT:

*this* is a better solution:


Battery cutoff switch, lets you determine when the circuit is live or dead.


[Modified by GymkhanaGTI, 6:26 AM 1/25/2002]

 

hey just a suggestion I know the metal boxes are much more expensive I think its worth the investment because I had that cheap *** box and it sucked IMO so I just ended up spending more money to get the better box.