I'm looking for the ultimate combination for all motor setups that will still allow me to be streetable and run pump gas. When i say streetable, i dont mean street LEGAL. Just ease of driving on the street. I don't want an ITB because they aren't considered a streetable mod.
Keep in mind - I'm running a GSR block, and a 99 civic Si head, and I do plan on running high performance mods. Not stock internals.
I would like to know the best compression to run. (Still able to run on pump gas.. im thinking 11.5?)
What is the best crank (lightweight)?
What are the best rods (not going Ti)?
Best pistons which allow for high-revving?
Rings, wristpins... bearings i assume are clevite.
I will be using a stock headgasket, unless highly recommended otherwise.
What valves, what style of valves also.
What brand springs/retainers?
And finally one of the more important questions - I am looking for a good cam that will allow me to be street drivable with the non-vtec cam lobes and allow for little sacrifice in torque. But still be a safe vtec cam to use up to 11000 rpm... my goal.
So far I hear Skunk2 stage 2 are nice. I prefer reliability over putting out power.
Other modifications are also welcome... What type of intake, size exhaust, type of headers.
Thanks a bunch guys.

 

The answer to all of your questions

 

Displacement.....85.5mm bore x 95mm stroke = 2.18 L .A flat top piston will give you around 11.5:1.Probably a ls length rod with a custom compression height.Don't worry about high rpms in a street engine.Torque is your friend.You won't need to shift down two gears to get the thing to pull.The rest off the parts are the builders choice.With a good stand alone tune the thing will be a great street engine.
Glenn

 

I can pull an 85.5 mm bore with the GSR block? I don't feel like getting a b20 block (84 mm), which I can understand will allow for an 85.5 bore. I don't want to do anything amazing like resleeving or soforth. I plan on closing the deck. Going with some higher compression. But ultimately I want it to be able to rev out to really high rpm. Just for the sheer wow factor of it. Further more, myself and an acquantance at work are having a dispute over the faster car. We are both currently building it. He has an eagle talon tsi (2nd gen). I have a 91 crx with (so far) GSR block, B16a2 head, fluidyne radiator (moreso a precautionary thing), ngk plug wires, dc sports ceramic 4-2-1 headers, aem cold air intake (true cold air), skunk2 intake manifold, i plan on portmatching and polishing the head. Another large concern of mine, for 1.8 liters of displacement what size exhaust piping should i run... i know that bends, cat flow, muffler flow are all counted in, but a safe average number. If i were to get Arias pistons instead of toda pistons, or wiseco, or whatever... as long as the put out 11.5:1 compression, they should work just fine correct? Or is it worth the extra money to go Toda?

 

go with a b20b or b20z block, Endyn 84.5mm pistons with wristpin moved 0.137" custom eagle rods all from Endyn, a crank girdle, a blockguard and have them do your head with some of their bumpstix cams ... you'll do a good 240-250-whp for the street ...

Greg

 

Your assumption about ITBs in quite incorrect. The rest is going to be speculative and highly opinionated. My advise is to find an engine builder you like and talk to him about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The answer to all of your questions </TD></TR></TABLE>

hey thats my line!

but i like the good old www.allmotor-questions.com

 

lol.

To the newb: there is no one "best" piston , camshaft, header, intake, etc. Some are better than others. It is more a matter of putting together a good combination and getting good tuning. The best motor will make **** for power if it is not tuned properly.

 

Well, as far as the B20 block... i specifically said i didnt want to use it. So, back to the b18c1 block. I know that there is no ONE single best of anything. But there are things that are highly recommended for maximum power. For instance Toda is an all motor specialty group, but their prices are outrageous. Is there something LIKE toda that is cheaper?

As far as the "best product" deal. There are obvious market leaders that know what they are doing, and have more reliable/trusted products. I want to know if it is safe to go with some of the cheaper stuff. So instead of me spending 880 bucks on a pair of TODA pistons, can I get KMS or wiseco and still have a reliable motor?

Also, ive read several reports that the ITB wasn't considered a very "streetable mod" from a few sources. I cant list them, but i do remember seeing them. If you can give me evidence otherwise... id be happy to consider both sides.

 

I'm confused, the title says Ultimate street car, but you dont want to sleeve or run ITB's, thats not very ultimate. Good luck with the build anyway

 

for pistons i would recommend endyns roller wave pistons, they will let you run a c/r that would normally be impossible with your octanelevel.

you also "NEED" to raise your r/s ratio if you wanna run those rpm's "safe"!?
or else your bearings will be over in no time, get some aftermarket bearings too (forgot the brand). with the upgraded bearings a ht-member run consistent 9k+ runs with standard LS internals and p30 pistons i believe. so with some lite pistons, rods and knife-edge crank you would be "oke"(i would'nt risk it tough but if you want to).

now search for a valvetrain combo that will allow you to hit 11k without hitting your pistons.

 

I would consider ITB's to be streetable . . . but only with a plenum & filter setup.

 

Theres alot more to buliding a serious engine than what you listed, and these are all just peoples opinions and experiences. Why do you need to rev to 11,000rpm? I doubt you can find a cam for the compression to run pump gas that would spin that high and make power. If you want high revs you want to cut as much weight as possible though and GENERALLY higher compression pistons weigh more. Pick some realisitc goals I would say unless you have money to just throw away. If thats the case I would bore out to 85mm, put in the light weight eagle 95mm crank, go with some crower or titanium rods, put a deck plate on that block and have everything sleeved run longer than stock rods and notch the bottom of the block sleeves so the rods don't hit and have a 2.3-2.4L motor built strong. Whatevers clever though its your motor but you won't make power at 11,000rpm with any street cam, I doubt with any race cam either.

 

If you want a honda motor that will spin to 11k, and still be streetable, you need to buy a CBR.

 

Yeah, when I saw ULTIMATE, I thought you were serious. It seems cost is becoming more of a consideration than power, and that makes this little E-Build a bit less than ultimate.

Just a consideration, you will never be the fastest or the most powerful, there will always be someone else. Do what you want, and don't worry about everyone else. Build a good setup with parts that work well together for reliablility and power.

 

Revving for the sheer wow factor? Silly ricer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with a b20b or b20z block, Endyn 84.5mm pistons with wristpin moved 0.137" custom eagle rods all from Endyn, a crank girdle, a blockguard and have them do your head with some of their bumpstix cams ... you'll do a good 240-250-whp for the street ...

Greg</TD></TR></TABLE>

C'mon Greg...you know that ******' setup won't make 250whp.

 

i thiink greg forgot the 92mm stroker crank

 

If you want to rev high get a weed wacker, gas will be real cheap too

 

Word guys, Word.
See, this is exactly the kind of input i need. This is changing things. So, i should kill the 11K RPM idea.
Next. Titanium rods, are they REALLY worth it? I would rather comprimise power for reliability. And i dont QUITE have money to just blow. It takes me a while to save up, THEN i have money to blow.
Next. ITBs i need more opinions - are they or arent they streetable? Can i do every day driving, then when i need it... whoop major *** (theoretically speaking).
I would like to know more on these endyne roller wave pistons... any information on them including pricing is great.
Is resleeving a must? if yes... should i just go with like an 85 mm bore?

You guys are tons of help. Thanks

 

ITB's are streetable.
&lt;------daily drives with ITB's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

C'mon Greg...you know that ******' setup won't make 250whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecmissle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thiink greg forgot the 92mm stroker crank</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've gotten 245 @ wheels with the 89mm LS crank, ITBs and a Portflow head in a couple of cars ... bore was 84.5mm production type rollerwaves and closed up chamber. It was with a hytech race header though.

Greg

 

Without the ITBs and race header...would woulda been at 225-230.

 

Go big or go home.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommy69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go big or go home. </TD></TR></TABLE>