Aight. I tried to be brave and do my own drums. Now i hate life.
I've got the whole thing apart and was in the process of puttin it back together, and i'm quitting. I hate life. The problem is that there are a few parts i cant seem to get to go back on, at least w/o strugglin alot, and i'm tired and its cold. Here are pics.


I cant get this adjuster dealie (2nd pic) which is broken on the fork end, to fit back up there where the upper circle is, and also theres another part and a spring that hooks to that adjuster that goes where the lower circle is.
I wanted to know if I would be fine to drive on this, about 10 mins away to a shop to finish up this and the other side. Cus right now, I'm about here:

Thanks.

 

Dang man. it looks like you have NOTHING together. drums are hard as hell. Do you have a manual handy? that should help.

 

get some rear discs! **** drums.

 

cute pictures.

put the adjuster first then use a pliers to get the spring there.

The other vertical part is cake if you know how drums work... the parts only make sense goin in one way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1993sir05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some rear discs! **** drums. </TD></TR></TABLE>



Well, I can lock up my rear drums...
they require less maintenance...
they dust less...
they weigh less i believe...
they are free...

Oh yea, Brandon just drive w/o em for a while. I'll be on spring break in less than a week. **** paying a shop for newb work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1993sir05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some rear discs! **** drums. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You wanna buy the **** and install it for me? I didnt think so, so unless you got somethin useful to say, go post more useless info in the GDD.
And yea I guess I can wait, but I'll try at it again tommorow morning. Thanks.

 

if i remember correctly, when i did my old drums, i put the adjuster arm on first then that top spring.... jsut took alot of struggling with needle nose pliers. loop one end in and pull with the pliers on the other. what are you using to install the springs?

also if you cant get the spring on after the adjuster arm is on, try pulling the ebrake to separate the pads more to you can get the adjsuter arm in there after the spring is in.

its been about 2-3 years since i did drums, ive since changed to rear disk.

 

adjust your ebrake....(loosen it) and you should have no problem puttin em back in....but if i were you i would clean the **** out of the drums there, looks like you got some oil and grease in there, BTW...why did you take the hub off?

 

Thats actually how it looks after cleaning, yea not the prettiest site, but its nuthin too bad. I took the hub off because thats what the stupid Haynes said to do, dont have my FSM on this comp so I was goin by that. Yea I'm gonna give it another shot today, I was gettin frustrated last nite so rational thinking just wasnt happening.

 

I just did mine the past two afternoons. BIG PITA, yes. Luckily when I was at my last straw my handy dandy neighbor (shop foreman at our acura dealership) told me what to do. The trick is....

The trick is to hook that long spring that has two coils, one small, one long up to the shoes. But hook it up to the shoes before you have it in place for the wheel cylinders. Also the adjuster needs to be kinda in place before you do all of this. It sounds weird, but basically just have it all kinda lined up with that hard as all heck can muster spring in place, then push it into place however necessary. It worked like a charm for me, that I was able to do in 5 min, where I fought the spring with pliars for nearly two hours.


Hope that helps

oh yeah, drums for life took 5 years of DD for mine to need replacing

 

don't use needle nose pliers, use a pair of end cutter pliers. They look like needle nose pliers but they have 2 hooks at the end. Works alot better than the needle nose. I got mine from MAC , part number # M748G

 

Take off the top spring
Put the non-spring part you didn't take a pic of on in the top left
Put on the adjuster (2nd pic) so that the tab of the other part fits over the adjuster wheel
Put the top spring back on (2 screwdrivers works everytime for me, YMMV)
Put on the little spring
Done

Drums are fine, although they are somewhat hard to adjust. Nice and light

 

When I do them, I go at it one at a time (then you can compare to the other side). But anyways....

When re-assembling, put the shoes, springs, and parking brake lever (etc..) together off the car. Lube all the points were the shoes will be pressed against the housing. Then put the assembly up to the housing & pull the shoes apart to fit them over the lower retainer & the upper wheel cylinder. Then put those two pins & retainers on each shoe to hold everything in. C-clamping the wheel cylinder down (take the fluid reservoir cap off first) can help make room for the shoes too. Now make sure the e-brake lever is down. Then attach the parking brake cable by pulling back the spring covered area & pinching it through the spring with some wire cutters (careful not to cut it though). Next test fit the drum & spin the Parking brake adjuster until the drum fits on. Now make sure the drum is centered on the hub & give it a good spin (a good smack works well). It should have enough drag to only let it turn .25-.5 turn. Adjust as needed & check the e-brake lever action. It should be 6-11 clicks until tight...

 

bump you guys that hate on drums don't know ****. They are lighter and usually better in a drag racing enviroment. Autocrossing is different. First time i changed drum brakes took me a while but it gets easier. Don't get discouraged. You just put them back together like you took them off. I do one at a time so i can always look at other side for reference. That springs are a bitch though. :D

Josh

 

Do exactly what 94eg! said. Hook all the springs together with the shoes outside the drum. Then, pull the shoes apart and fit it into the drum.

As for drum vs. disc, there is no need to install disc brakes. Not only will it cost you money, but there really is little need. Almost all the braking is done by the fronts anyway. The only real advantage is the ease of putting new pads on with disc brakes, but even this is hardly an issue because the shoes will last a long time.

 

Thanks for everyones help. I think I got it back together.
Here's a pic, tell me that somethings wrong so i can go dropkick my car off the jackstands

Pretty sure i put that upper spring on the wrong way, didnt realize it till i got it on, which was a bitch, dont think it'll have too much affect will it?

 

the upper is on backwards. It will interfer w/ the self adjuster.

Also be sure to properly lubricate all the points mentioned in the manual. e.g. inside of the adjuster arm, and on the ebrake pivot. Be sure to clean out the threads on the adjuster arm too.

Although taking off the hub isn't necessary it makes the job a hell of a lot easier. I suggest doing the same on the other side.

Its not like he doesn't have air tools... ***... I'm sure MY compressor is covered in ****, my nice quick connects are all leaking from abuse, and my hose looks like its been tossed into traffic.

Better be cleaned up when I get back for break or you get reamed.

hope that helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the upper is on backwards. It will interfer w/ the self adjuster.

Also be sure to properly lubricate all the points mentioned in the manual. e.g. inside of the adjuster arm, and on the ebrake pivot. Be sure to clean out the threads on the adjuster arm too.

Although taking off the hub isn't necessary it makes the job a hell of a lot easier. I suggest doing the same on the other side.

Its not like he doesn't have air tools... ***... I'm sure MY compressor is covered in ****, my nice quick connects are all leaking from abuse, and my hose looks like its been tossed into traffic.

Better be cleaned up when I get back for break or you get reamed.

hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep Rush hour traffic too.

Man I aint takin this **** apart again. IF it drives, and stops, I'm fine til u get back.

 

Looks like ur getting me a new hose... or I'll help you... help you die.

You know how the assembly works... don't be a big baby. Only one things is wrong from what I can see.

 

With discs you have the oportunity to select from a wide variety of performance pads over drum shoes. If you run good grippy pads up front, with OEM shoes in the bck, you actually bias your brake system further forward. Increasing forward to an already front heavy system (OEM setup) will actually increase your stoping distances. This is because the rear tires are not working as hard as they could/should be.

Bigger front discs, bigger front caliper pistons, More weight in the rear of the car & lowering your car all do the same thing though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With discs you have the oportunity to select from a wide variety of performance pads over drum shoes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

FWIW, Porterfield makes rear shoes in R4S compound..........
HTH
chris

 

How much resistance should there be when i try to put the drum back on and spin it? I put the drum back on with a rubber mallet. Didnt take too much effort as i have seen some struggle with. But i think now i just need to adjust the e-brake cable?

 

You think Honda drums suck, try some on American cars. Springs that look identical but different pressures, you can try all night to get one on one side but if its the wrong pressure it will never ever go on, well it will go on but when its on you can tell its wrong.

By the way, there is a company out there that sells brake shoes for Honda's but they got the dimension wrong or something because the pad on the shoe was to large and you could never get the drum back on, unless you sanded down the shoe a little

 

drums:

PITA if it's the first time every working on them
CAKE if it's not.


never understood why people get rear discs (unless it came with them stock), let alone integra rear discs.

 

All your springs look a hundred percent better than mine. Mine were all rusted. Can you get all new guts (springs and adjuster) from autozone. I wouldn't mind taking mine apart again to put some new stuff in (of course when it gets warmer out).

Looks good though (except for that spring)