vtec problem
Heres the situation:
I'm running an OBD-0 D16Z6 (PM6 ecu) with an Apexi V-AFC to engage vtec. When I installed the engine, at first vtec worked and I could feel it. However, 2 months later it does not work. I can't feel it and my car ran a 16.5 at a 1/4 mile track.
Becuase of my code 9, I left the car with my dad when I went away to college and he fixed that. He also noticed an oil leak from the vtec solenoid, so he replaced the 'O' ring there and put rtv silicon instead of a gasket to put the solenoid back on. Since I ordered the SI guage cluster, he installed that as well when he had the car. The car is now throwing two codes, 7 (tps) and 17 (vss). Its been about a month after I got the car and the whole time my vtec has not been engaging (when it used to). I see on the v-afc that the VTo goes from off to on when I pass 4800 rpm (vtec point I set it to) even when standing still in neutral. I also can't feel it when it goes to on when i am driving the car.
I am wondering what I should do? I will hopefully fix the code 17 sometime this week and see if vtec engages, if not, could the solenoid be broken or fried from lack of tuning? I will also take the solenoid off and check the O-ring and see if any rtv silicon got into any oil passageways. Please help, and thanks.
I'm running an OBD-0 D16Z6 (PM6 ecu) with an Apexi V-AFC to engage vtec. When I installed the engine, at first vtec worked and I could feel it. However, 2 months later it does not work. I can't feel it and my car ran a 16.5 at a 1/4 mile track.
Becuase of my code 9, I left the car with my dad when I went away to college and he fixed that. He also noticed an oil leak from the vtec solenoid, so he replaced the 'O' ring there and put rtv silicon instead of a gasket to put the solenoid back on. Since I ordered the SI guage cluster, he installed that as well when he had the car. The car is now throwing two codes, 7 (tps) and 17 (vss). Its been about a month after I got the car and the whole time my vtec has not been engaging (when it used to). I see on the v-afc that the VTo goes from off to on when I pass 4800 rpm (vtec point I set it to) even when standing still in neutral. I also can't feel it when it goes to on when i am driving the car.
I am wondering what I should do? I will hopefully fix the code 17 sometime this week and see if vtec engages, if not, could the solenoid be broken or fried from lack of tuning? I will also take the solenoid off and check the O-ring and see if any rtv silicon got into any oil passageways. Please help, and thanks.
I realize that, but the V-AFC still sends a 12 volt signal even when I am standing still. That is why i am posting because it is throwing the voltage but I am not feeling the vtec kick in.
I know vtec needs you to be going over 20 mph to work, a certain oil pressure and a certain temperature to work.
Yes, my speedo does work.
I know vtec needs you to be going over 20 mph to work, a certain oil pressure and a certain temperature to work.
Yes, my speedo does work.
Fix the codes and then see if VTEC works. The VSS code will prevent VTEC from engaging. To check the solenoid apply 12 volt power to it and make sure it clicks then you know the solenoid is ok.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fix the codes and then see if VTEC works. The VSS code will prevent VTEC from engaging. To check the solenoid apply 12 volt power to it and make sure it clicks then you know the solenoid is ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When should I apply the 12 volt power source?
When should I apply the 12 volt power source?
Alright, i understood that part. Should the engine be on? Should I rev it to a certain RPM? Should it be off? I have a feeling those questions aren't making me look too bright right now.
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I believe they are saying to activate the solenoid to hear it click so you know the solenoid is working. This means engine off, touch the vtec sol plug with a positive source for a second to hear if it makes a click.
Don't leave it connected, Just touch it for a second to make it activate then release.
I have no clue how V-AFC replaces your VSS. Especially if you mean V-AFC has 12v+ always going to your VTEC sol.... that would mean VTEC is always active. and that would suck. LOL
I think your problem is with the VSS and you need to do the following:
http://www.norcalcrx.org/library
Download the CRX workshop manual.
Page 164 is all about VSS toubleshooting!
If you test the voltage between A16 and B18 while you drive the car, you'll see a rise and fall of 0 to 5V
(i would recommend doing this with a friend lol)
Modified by NikoZai at 3:45 PM 3/14/2005
Don't leave it connected, Just touch it for a second to make it activate then release.
I have no clue how V-AFC replaces your VSS. Especially if you mean V-AFC has 12v+ always going to your VTEC sol.... that would mean VTEC is always active. and that would suck. LOL
I think your problem is with the VSS and you need to do the following:
http://www.norcalcrx.org/library
Download the CRX workshop manual.
Page 164 is all about VSS toubleshooting!
If you test the voltage between A16 and B18 while you drive the car, you'll see a rise and fall of 0 to 5V
(i would recommend doing this with a friend lol)
Modified by NikoZai at 3:45 PM 3/14/2005
oh and re-reading that - can someone post the correct gasket part # for him for the VTEC solenoid.
May as well replace it right if you're going to take it apart anyway.
May as well replace it right if you're going to take it apart anyway.
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