Ok, so I'm in the very early phases of putting together an H-Stock setup for the Focus.

Bone stock the car has silly wheelspin, and that's only gonna be compounded once I put the larger front bar on.

That means my only option is to tune the wheelspin out with the shocks. My extremely limited knowledge of how a shock works tells me that in order to accomplish this I will want a significant increase in the rebound valving?

I guess my question really is how does more rebound help temper wheelspin on an open-diff macstrut FWD car?

 

This is just a guess, but I did build/drive a McPherson EP3 for a couple of years: Heavy rebound valving slows the speed of the front springs expanding from thier resting height as the weight shifts rearward?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is just a guess, but I did build/drive a McPherson EP3 for a couple of years: Heavy rebound valving slows the speed of the front springs expanding from thier resting height as the weight shifts rearward?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I understand the effect the increase in rebound explicitly has, but I'm just a bit confused as to why that actually helps temper wheelspin.

As you have the car pitched into a corner, the inside front is in droop, and I just can't quite wrap my head around why more rebound will help in this situation.

I guess if anything it's going to better control the movement up front, which always helps.......

 

Shock valving is not going to help if it is an issue of sheer torque vs. tire grip. If it is during a cornering issue, then the shocks will help reduce body roll and keep the chassis flatter and then the tires can better be presented to the ground. At this point when all else is stock and you know the car is far undersprung for the activity, your best hope is to keep your chassis flatter in roll and make your body roll transitions as smooth and consistent as you can so you can keep the tire down as best as possible then you learn to modulate throttle to limit wheelspin.

If the car was doing some kind of violent vertical wheel hop motion or something like that, then we could tweek on valving to solve that problem but with basic "rolls too much so it unloads the inside drive wheel", the additing rebound primarily and compression very secondarily with be the key. Rarely do you get into a situation where the car is transitioning so hard and the rebound is so stiff that you pull the inside front off the ground because the car is going up faster than rebound will let it down.

I think once you get some real tires on it to grip with and some real performance dampers, the car will really turn around from the stock/stock situation. I think your current measuring opportunity is showing nearly the worst of many worlds.

 

Well, I'll be doing all I can within the Stock class rules to eliminate body-roll.

I'm probably putting the cart before the horse since I haven't seen how bad the wheelspin is on V710s.

The good thing is that I don't get crazy wheel-hop.