Temp gauge not reaching the normal spot ... Assistance please.

After re-installing the 4-1 and installing the BCIII for the first time I now have a slightly strange problem.

The temp gauge is not reaching the average temp spot and the caR is idling at 1500, Even after an hour on the hiway. The heat is nice and hot like always and everything seems to be normal.
One thing is odd tho,,, When I first installed the exhaust I put the second O2 in the test pipe and did not have any CEL, since the car is not reaching operating temp I have a CEL. Why is this odd... cause I have a stock 01 ECU in my car and having the O2 in a test-pipe should have triggered the CEL right away- right?

So how do I go about getting the temp where it should be? or am I missing something here?

And yes I did not get the code from the cel... too damm lazy

 

Rob...sorry for not calling you back the other day

With your o2 sensors, the cel will not trigger right away. I remember I was having a scimilar problem when I bought my car from Len. It was throwing a secondary O2 code. I remember, we thought we had it all worked out, reset the ECU and about 900 miles away from Atlanta BAM the light's back on...same code. I ended up changing both o2 sensors out for good measure and that got rid of the problem.

The temp issue has me puzzled. So therefore I will not comment on that

 

hrmmm...

as for not calling NP

 

i'm not exactly sure how these cars operate, but just how much cooler are you running? where is the sender for the water temperature guage located in these cars?

if throwing a code means the car goes into "limp-mode," then the fuel mixture will richen by a significant amount, reducing the temperature in the head, as well as EGT's. i don't know if it could cause that much of a water temp drop, but i suppose it's possible.

also, i've noticed that a couple different header designs locate the first downward bend in the pipe much closer to the radiator than others. of course if the header is closer (or in this case, farther away) from the radiator, that could affect temperatures as well, especially if your water temperature guage is in this vacinity.

 

I have had this header on before and never had this problem so I think the design is safe... besides its the OEM JDM 4-1

and for limp/safe mode, the caR is driving just fine... actually on the highway it's pulling a lot harder then what I'm used to but that might be cause of the free flowing exhaust or it could be cause the car is cold and running rich

I have no clue. But thanks for your input

 

You say BCIII, I'm assuming the catback exhaust and not the cams right?

If so, I ran damn near the same setup as you before on one of my old R's, Toda Header, swapped between a godspeed testpipe and carsound cat, and the BCIII catback and never experienced the problems. I had the JDM ITR Header on my car at one time too, just dont remember if it was in combo with the catback.

Not sure why your temp would be acting funny like that though. Can't imagine its exhaust related, but I dunno. Just listed my setup and had no problems for your reference, good luck.

 

grab the code first, then we can make a better diagnosis

 

I gotta run out in a little while, when I get back on line later tonight I'll have the code...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sneakychaos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You say BCIII, I'm assuming the catback exhaust and not the cams right?

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Correct.

 

if the temp is not reading correctly, and showing its still cold, it sounds like the car still thinks its in warmup mode, which is why the idle is so high. gotta be something with a sensor or in the cooling system, maybe the coolant temp sensor?

 

Is there anything I can hit with a hammer to fix this?

 

Opie...but dont know if that will fix the problem

 

 

did you change to a mugen thermostat or spoon one, and what about the fan switch.
That usually makes teh fan run more, lowering temps, at least it did on my si

 

thermostat stuck open?
fans stuck on?
temp senors?
the only things I can think of...

 

I never changed anything in or on the cooling system...

 

.....check the water temp sensor - on the head about 4 inches below the vtec solenoind/ distributor. You may have inadvertently unplugged it or have a loose wire or something.

2ndary o2 in test pipe = cel unless you use a fooler. I can make one for you if you like.


-hth

 

Possibly thermostat going bad?

 

Does the temparature rise, and fall, or just not go up to normal? I had this problem a while back w/ an old car, and if I was cruising down a hill off the gas, the temp gauge would fall and actually go below the cold position! But once I got back on the gas, it would raise back up. Not sure what it is, 'cause I never fixed it. I would try and fix it A.S.A.P. I remember it running like ****, might have been mental, but...


O.T... What is that in Black R's avatar?? It looks like the head of a v3nus Razor.

 

have you checked the thermostat? it might be slightly stuck open. how many miles on the car? might be tome to swap it out. if not that maybe the water temp sensor. it is right around the vtec solenoid i think...its around that area, double check the helms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Art Vandeleigh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you checked the thermostat? it might be slightly stuck open. how many miles on the car? might be tome to swap it out. if not that maybe the water temp sensor. it is right around the vtec solenoid i think...its around that area, double check the helms.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, thermostats are known to stick open. I've had them stick shut in older cars though. I'd go after that first if the sensor checks out OK.

-Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shank6510 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Possibly thermostat going bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be my first guess.

 

My thermostat went bad last year. The temp guage was right at about the second tick mark when fully "warmed up." When I had the heater turned all the way up, I only got luke warm air. Since yours still blows hot, I don't know if that'd be the problem...

 

if its stuck open is it really that bad of a thing? I've known people to just pull it out all together when they go bad until they get around to replacing it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DragII &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its stuck open is really that bad of a thing? I've known people to just pull it out all together when they go bad until they get around to replacing it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine was stuck open for 2-3 months. I don't think it causes any severe damages to the engine, but it does keep the engine from running at an optimal temperature. Plus, it gets pretty cold in the car during the winter.