I am about to get the Hondata s200 and get my car tuned. I have heard some split reviews on what rpm I should have the vtec kickin' in. My internals are stock and I've got cam gears and a FPR. I seen some people lower it as far as 4400 and others raise it up to 6500.

Just lookin' for some opinions/suggestions on what would suit me best. What factors should I be considering? My car is a daily driver with some track days coming soon.

Thanx in advance

 

All cars are different. So what may work well for one may suck for yours.

When you look at the dyno graph, shoot for the most consistant climbing straight line possible/least spikes and dips before, during and after Vtec for both HP and TQ.

 

mine was tuned and worked best at 5k i tried many points........ but yours may be different

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am about to get the Hondata s200 and get my car tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>i always knew you could tune an engine on a dyno, but i never thought you could tune a whole car on it

 

why not just leave the engagement point stock if everything else is?

 

what mods r gonna be on the car when it is tuned? or is it stock minus the ecu?
sorry, other than the fpr and cam gears

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KGsITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what mods r gonna be on the car when it is tuned? or is it stock minus the ecu?
sorry, other than the fpr and cam gears</TD></TR></TABLE>

My mods are J's intake, JDM header, Vibrant cat(to be replaced with a T1R test pipe after Hondata), T1R cat back, UR SS pulleys, AEM FPR, cam gears, fuel rail. All the internals are stock and will remain that way.

From there my plan is to get the s200, OBD1 ECU and harness and head to the dyno for the tune.

Tuning, Hondata, dyno's, etc are all new to me so I'm just trying to gather as much info as I can before I make the investment.

 

stock itr motor (including cams) and bolt-ons?

usually you'll see some midrange gains with vtec set around 5k-5200rpm.

But of course you'll want to verify this only on the dyno.....

 

This is the method that worked for me. This was obtained from http://www.team-integra.net (http://www.team-integra.net/se...ID=59)

Set the VTEC controller such that the VTEC switch is at 7000 rpm. The dyno pull will be done almost entirely on the non-VTEC lobes.

Locate the highest rpm at which the hp dies on the non-VTEC lobe. Go 200 rpm before this point and that is YOUR best VTEC switchover point.

 

I'd say 5200 RPM to start out with, then work your way down, but I wouldnt go any lower than 5000 on a daily driver unless you like driving to work on the freeway in vtec.

 

My Comptech Race header likes 4600. Before that, my JDM 4-1 liked 5200.

Best thing to do is go to the dyno and see for yourself, but as everyone else has stated, right around 5000 will give you the most linear curve.

 

every engine/mod combo will breath differently. This is especially so on R motors as they are hand built and machined. The best way is trial and error on a dyno. That whole starting at 7000rpm is a waste of time for your set-up, IMO. I say try 5200 and go from there...its all about tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stealth 95 GS-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That whole starting at 7000rpm is a waste of time for your set-up, IMO. I say try 5200 and go from there...its all about tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How is it a waste when it only requires one run to determine the best VTEC point? It worked for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How is it a waste when it only requires one run to determine the best VTEC point? It worked for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cuz you got lucky.

seriously though, I've seen where it hasn't worked well for the picky people...some people start at 7000, and work there way down until its barely noticeable on a dynograph.

 

Are you changing your ingnition and fuel values for a run up to 7k on the low speed????

If not then wouldnt it just fall off right around the oem engagement point? since you havent changed anything but engagement?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stealth 95 GS-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

cuz you got lucky.

seriously though, I've seen where it hasn't worked well for the picky people...some people start at 7000, and work there way down until its barely noticeable on a dynograph.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Worst case it should take 2 runs. Do one at 7000, do one at 4000, then set the crossover where the power curve for the low cam and high cam meet.

 

almost same setup as urs my vtec engages at 4300

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

From there my plan is to get the s200, OBD1 ECU and harness and head to the dyno for the tune.

Tuning, Hondata, dyno's, etc are all new to me so I'm just trying to gather as much info as I can before I make the investment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

U might want to add a hondata intake gasket or the one from JDMpassword to that list as well. It's not gonna give you mad bajillion HP yO...but it'll help keep the in-mani lukewarm at best, during the dyno runs and help "preserve" the consistency of power during HPDE, etc.....

I agree with Chris F in doing 2 dyno runs to set the VTeCH .....~

 

yeah. whatever the dyno tells u. = answer. go from there.

 

yes dyno, and from what i read on a japanese magazine, 5200 rpm is the best place ot be

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Set the VTEC controller such that the VTEC switch is at 7000 rpm. The dyno pull will be done almost entirely on the non-VTEC lobes.

Locate the highest rpm at which the hp dies on the non-VTEC lobe. Go 200 rpm before this point and that is YOUR best VTEC switchover point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree with this statement.
Adjusting VTEC to just where hp drops off is the easiest way to gauge where the most efficient place for cross-over would be. And no its not a waste of time...different setups like different vtec changeover points. And always being in vtec is not "healthy" for your engine...try not to take changeover drastically low.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8600RPM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you changing your ingnition and fuel values for a run up to 7k on the low speed???? If not then wouldnt it just fall off right around the oem engagement point? since you havent changed anything but engagement?</TD></TR></TABLE>
With Hondata, the ignition and fuel tables switch when the engine switches to VTEC.
It's not like a VTEC controller that can only switch VTEC engagement.

 

Thanks for all your suggestions/opinions guys. The tuner I'll be using is experienced with Hondata so I trust he'll know all the different things y'all are talking about.

Est. tuning time was a street tune for $300CAD and $150CAD/hr for dyno tune(approx. 2 hours)

Sound right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all your suggestions/opinions guys. The tuner I'll be using is experienced with Hondata so I trust he'll know all the different things y'all are talking about.

Est. tuning time was a street tune for $300CAD and $150CAD/hr for dyno tune(approx. 2 hours)

Sound right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's like USD$15, right?

It's pretty close, I'd expect to pay $100+ USD per hour on a dyno.

-Chris

 

question...if you were to do the "raise vtec to 7000, record power curve on SMALL LOBES, and set vtec to where power starts to fall off" method, should you actually TUNE the fuel to get the absolute most power possible on the small lobe? Then do the same for the VTEC LOBES and start vtec at 4000, tune fuel for most power, and finally set vtec from those results??