Hey guys. I posted something similar to this post and came to the conclusion that it was my main relay. The fuel wasn't going. Well I fixed the main relay and the fuel primes and everything is good. The thing that sucks is , it still takes a couple or a few turns of the key to get the car to start.

Can someone give me a list of things that could be the host of the problem so I can check everything out?

thanks

 

Oh yeah, adn I was just wondering. Does anyone know if compression issues would cause this problem? I don't know why, i'm just asking. I have a compression tester my friend let me borrow i'm going to use it when I have free time but i've been busy with school and ****.

 

if your low on gas in can take a few cranks to get it started, try leting it prime for a sec then turn the it over.

 

I have about a half tank. I do let the fuel prime completely before starting and it still does it

 

damn, bump for you

 

you should always wait until the Check Engine Light turns off before you attempt to start your vehicle. It is bad for your injectors to let them work without lubricant and a damper.

 

what kinda car, what motor is in it? what years?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DirtySol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should always wait until the Check Engine Light turns off before you attempt to start your vehicle. It is bad for your injectors to let them work without lubricant and a damper.

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i was not aware of this!
learn somting new everyday, can anyone verify this? it makes sence

 

maybe ur fuel filter.

 

it's a 92Si w/ a d16z6.

I do let everything prime though and wait a few seconds after also just to be sure. A lot of times it'll start up on the 2nd try but once in a while it takes like 3 or 4.

How much is a new fuel filter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The-Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How much is a new fuel filter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

about 12.98 at Auto Zone

 

Does it really sound like its the fuel filter tho? cuz i dont wanna go out and buy it if its not the problem, even tho its just 13 bux =P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DirtySol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should always wait until the Check Engine Light turns off before you attempt to start your vehicle. It is bad for your injectors to let them work without lubricant and a damper. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Never heard of this before. Please explain?

 

Are you turbo?

When I first intalled my DSM injectors I used inline resistors and it would take a few times to get going, then I rewired the injectors with a resistor box instead and it fixed the problem...

 

nah it's n/a.

 

it can be so many things...

 

hmm.. can u list the most common ones?

 

Fuel or spark. ASny abnormal sounds when you crank? When you finally get it started, does it crank for a while then start? Or does it start immediately?

 

It's weird because sometimes when it starts, it cranks a bit and then it starts. But then at times when it starts, i twist the key and it almost immediately fires up.

 

How many times on average till it starts?

 

2-4

 

Just leave it till it absolutely doesn't work, then the issue will probably arise. At least it's not like... 10 times.

 

my car was the same was....well if i left the car idle over night my car would take forever to start ..so i got my battery tested at pep boys..the guy behind counter looked at me and said hes gettin a reading of 0volts on my battery and im running off alternator..got new battery now everythings fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Never heard of this before. Please explain?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the reason why you need to wait until AFTER the CEL goes off when you turn the key to the on position to start is that the ECU / PCM / ECM, whatever you wanna call it, goes through a self check of all of the sensors and actually disables the distributor in the process. During this time (about 3-4 seconds) the main relay will kick power to the fuel pump and energise the ignition coil to get capacities up to specification for startup. That is why when you get in the car and just crank it without waiting you basically have to crank it until the ECU goes through its self check and fuel prime before the vehicle starts. This means extra cranks.

Just went to college for this stuff guys, manufacturers all do this in order to prevent a lean start and make the engine last longer because hard starts and not warming the engine up properly are the two leading causes to premature engine wear.

BTW I am graduating from college @ WyoTech on the 25th of this month and I will be recieving an Associates in Advanced Automotive Technology and Management.........<FONT SIZE="5"><FONT COLOR="red">WOOT!!1</FONT></FONT>

 

buy a new fuel pressure regualtor, the regulator is shot, its just taking more time to build pressure in your fule sysmte new regualtor and maybe pump youll be set