Say you take a stock 2000 gsr....and a stock 2000 type R....obviously the type R would be faster right....So what mods will the gsr need to be not faster...not slower...but almost identical in power or speed to the type R....


I'm just wondering...cause I just want to see how much money you have to invest into a gsr to be at a type R level....Thanks!!

 

cam

 

The difference is quite a lot from what I've heard. There was a thread that I saw before that listed the many things that distinguished the Type R. Not just the Cams. Factory P&P, intake manifold, ECU, compression, stiffer springs, shocks, rear sway bar, tranny with w/shorter gears, LSD, cosmetics, and many other things that I'm sure I've missed. I think better off just finding a type r rather than buying a gsr and fixing it up to be a type r.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jadebellyt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The difference is quite a lot from what I've heard. There was a thread that I saw before that listed the many things that distinguished the Type R. Not just the Cams. Factory P&P, intake manifold, ECU, compression, stiffer springs, shocks, rear sway bar, tranny with w/shorter gears, LSD, cosmetics, and many other things that I'm sure I've missed. I think better off just finding a type r rather than buying a gsr and fixing it up to be a type r. </TD></TR></TABLE>


he doesn't want it to be a type r, he just wants to be as fast as one.

 

type r sticker

 

you would need to port the head to the spec of the type r head. Change the piston to higher compression. Get some type r cams. Maybe modified the ecu to have a better air fuel ratio. i'm not sure but mgiht have to change the valves components.
Thats all i can think of. The cheapest way is to sell ur gsr head and buy a type r head and swap. Buy some type r pistons and your set. You than have a type r motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lmaonade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he doesn't want it to be a type r, he just wants to be as fast as one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correction noted. He still needs a lot to make it as quick as a type r. Money and time that could be avoided if he just bought a type r. But they are rare, so I suppose sometimes you don't have a decision.

 

You guys are going crazy with like the pistons n higher compressin n all that...cant i just put basic bolt-ons? clutch flywheel assembly...and maybe skunk stage 1 cams n tune it?? that would be faster than a stock type r?

 

integgin has a point.. to get as fast as might not take all that stuff but to make it a typr r would take alot of cash.. which i can vouche for

 

98-01 type-r valve train/type-r tranny with 4.7 final drive/stage 1 street clutch/lightened flywheel/01 type-r cams/jdm itr pistons and most importantly driving experience.

there could be many combinations to accomplish your goals but you will need time and money before anything else.

 

jdm itr header, intake, 2.5 inch exhaust and skunk2 stage 1 cams with itr valvesprings.

 

Your only looking at needing to gain 25hp. That's all! Not to much, and can be done with the proper parts and proper tuning. Remember the R specs out at 195hp and is making around 160-167hp at the wheels when dynoed. You will obviously get more gains out of the head. Better cams (rocket motorsports or import builders) valve springs (rocket motorsports) titanium retainers (rocket motorsports) cam gears (ST Corsa) Hondata, Uberdata or something. Get that car on a dyno when all the parts are in and have it tuned properly and you will eat any stock R. You can even go as far as taking the head off and swapping out the head gasket with a thinner one to slightly bump up the compression. There are all kinds of things you can do. Remember..the Type R has shorter gears from 2-5 so you may have to shoot for a number slightly higher than the Type R to make up for the GSR's longer gears.

 

You could pull the head and have a P&P, a valvjob and use the factory hardware and prolly pick up close to 25hp. If you want to spend some money, you could buy a complete head package along with the P&P and pick up about 50hp. That should be more than enough to out run a Type-R. I would do also do what Haleiwa-Brando said and go with a single layer HG (Mugen or Spoon?), or I heard that you can just remove a layer or two from the OEM MLS gasket. I've never done that but am interested to see if it works.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lmaonade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jdm itr header, intake, 2.5 inch exhaust and skunk2 stage 1 cams with itr valvesprings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That right there sounds like it could be the cheapest, fastest way....Thanks!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnydc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could pull the head and have a P&P, a valvjob and use the factory hardware and prolly pick up close to 25hp. If you want to spend some money, you could buy a complete head package along with the P&P and pick up about 50hp. That should be more than enough to out run a Type-R. I would do also do what Haleiwa-Brando said and go with a single layer HG (Mugen or Spoon?), or I heard that you can just remove a layer or two from the OEM MLS gasket. I've never done that but am interested to see if it works. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i would not reccomend messing with any head gasket. for the most part they are bonded and baked while being pressed at pretty high temps to make all of the seperate parts come together as one. i used to rebuild diesel engines for living and if you mess with the head gasket in any way or even bend it slightly before installation you are asking for trouble down the road. mind you that diesels run at 28-35-1 compression. an itr runs near 11-1 compression. if you are looking at spending the money on a ported and polished head, intake, cams, injectors, ect. just drop the cash and get a junkyard turbo setup going. that is what i want to do with the 4-door 94 ls integra i just bought. my wifey disagrees. what is new.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carnifex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would not reccomend messing with any head gasket. for the most part they are bonded and baked while being pressed at pretty high temps to make all of the seperate parts come together as one. i used to rebuild diesel engines for living and if you mess with the head gasket in any way or even bend it slightly before installation you are asking for trouble down the road. mind you that diesels run at 28-35-1 compression. an itr runs near 11-1 compression. if you are looking at spending the money on a ported and polished head, intake, cams, injectors, ect. just drop the cash and get a junkyard turbo setup going. that is what i want to do with the 4-door 94 ls integra i just bought. my wifey disagrees. what is new. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The head gaskets on most Honda are a Multi Layer Stainless Steel gasket. That means that they are multiple layers and they are held together with rivets. All you would have to do is remove the rivets and remove a layer or two. Like I said I've never done it but if you think about it it could logically work. You could also go with a turbo, but I think he wanted to know how to get to type-r status while not using FI, Please correct me if I am Wrong.

 

ok. i guess i have never seen an oem honda head gasket up close. to make it a type r performance wise start strpiing the interior. type r's weigh less to begin with. start reinfircing the chassis. trype r's are stiffer all over.

 

I'm not sure about the overall weight difference. I know the GS_R has all the sound deadening and a sunroof, the Type-R has neither. The Type-R also has a comlpetely different suspension setup in the back, thing sway arms, and a couple extra supports. To handle like a Type-R the GS-R will need some pretty extensive work and parts. Many claim the Type-R as the best handling FR car in exsistance.

 

turbo.

 

throw on all the basic bolt on's and take some weight off & you should be equal. there really isn't that much difference in the stock 1/4 mile time. but like others said.. to actually make the specs like a type r is expensive (intake mani/cams/bump the compression/lots of tunning).

 

ITBs...

or an ITR swap...
-Mike

 

just the right amount of NAWS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnydc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure about the overall weight difference. I know the GS_R has all the sound deadening and a sunroof, the Type-R has neither. The Type-R also has a comlpetely different suspension setup in the back, thing sway arms, and a couple extra supports. To handle like a Type-R the GS-R will need some pretty extensive work and parts. Many claim the Type-R as the best handling FR car in exsistance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i drove one at a local autocross. wow. i got 2 runs and i came nowhere near the limits of the car. the guy who owned it couldn't get there either. it just stuck to the ground. i never even got it to understeer. i still want one. the only thing holding me back is the wife and 3 kids. oh well. i will probably get one 10 years from now.

 

get nossssssss

throw on some basic bolt ons and see where ur at. ull obviously need more anyway. i wouldnt say cams are a basic bolt on.

 

get some ITR cams, ITR intake manifold (or skunk2) ITR TB, jdm headers, ITR exhuast (little less restrictive than the oem gsr) also have to factor in that the ITR is lighter. example, no sunroof/moonroof (even though i read that some had this option?) and also i read the body of the car was constructed of a lighter metal. the compression is higher on the type r, but with those mods, and maybe a less restrictive exhaust, you could be close to that goal...