I haven't even got the suspension put back together. I went ahead and started it as soon as I had the mtf in so I could make sure everything was working. Nope.

The setup is stock except that I'm using rc injectors and the vafc to cut them back. I've still got to find the original injectors so that will have to do for now.

I don't have any intake at all right now, the car isn't going anywhere. I'm not too worried about ingesting something at this point, but I don't know if the lack of an intake could be contributing or not I'm tempted to go put it on just to see.

Also, the o2 sensor isn't threaded all the way in. The threads are messed up and it needs to be replaced before it will go in all the way, but it IS in there somewhat.

I'm pretty sure all sensors (iat is plugged in, just dangling since there is no intake) and grounds are hooked up.

The engine will idle, but not smoothly

The cel comes on solid as soon as I turn the car on. It is a code 74 - misfire
After I remove the service jumper the cel just flashes constantly.

The plugs are black and sooty.

If I give it gas, the revs don't rise quite like I would expect, like there is something holding it back. If I give it enough gas to bring the revs up to around 2000, it will start to bounce up and down bad. At this point, if I let off the gas, it will come back down practically to the point of dying and the revs will stabilize somewhere around 6-700. If I give it more gas, the engine revs will bounce worse, and if I give it much more it will exhale it's last breath and just die. Also, any time I give it any gas, it will smoke like crazy.

Any help would be great.



Modified by d16tuner at 10:41 PM 3/8/2005

 

Check engine light turn on with a code 74. Check your MAP sensor, I had a similar problem on my d16y8, where it idled problems and died after I let go off the throttle. If it isn't the MAP then it could be the wire that connects to the MAP. The wire which connects to the MAP on my car was bad. It also thru a cell number 71-74 for engine misfire. Definitely check that MAP sensor.

 

Try swapping your MAP and TPS plugs on the throttle body.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlacoy82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try swapping your MAP and TPS plugs on the throttle body. </TD></TR></TABLE>

God bless you. When I was hurriedly connecting everything back together, I wondered why the wire seemed shorter than before. And I never even noticed that both sensors have the same exact connector. There is an identifying swipe of yellow paint on one that I was going by when reconnecting it (yellow on the sensor and the wire connector). Turns out they both have yellow paint swiped on the connector. What retarded engineer designed that? lol good grief. That is one stupid mistake I'll never make again - I sure am glad I posted now. There are still a couple of cels I need to work out, but I feel a lot better now that the car will at least idle right, and I can push the gas without killing it. I hope I didn't screw up the tps sensor tho, because the throttle reading on the vafc won't go below about 5% where it hovers now, and I checked to make sure the line wasn't too tight. But, I'd say it's a huge improvement overall. Thanks, both of you!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlacoy82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try swapping your MAP and TPS plugs on the throttle body. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This would have been my guess too, have had this happen before

Good stuff!

 

Well, I drove it today. Everything works great. It did throw a code 13 at one point, but I think that was just because of the hack. Otherwise, it runs fine so far. And the tps sensor is working fine now - reading 0% at idle. Looks like I managed to rebuild it ok, altho I reused the bearings and rings ( ). Thanks again.

 

glad I read this thread

Now how about you give me some tips, pics on how you rebuilt your D16

Im building my A6 as soon as my gasket kit gets here

Anything special I should know that could be easily overlooked?

I know Im gonna need help with misc gaskets/pumps/seals, setting the initial timing....

 

Well, it is best to get new bearings and rings. There are letters stamped on the bellhousing, and numbers and letters on the crank, that when put together will tell you what bearings you need. A good service manual will tell you how to do it. Or, if you take the crank and block to the honda dealer they will decipher it and tell you what to order.

Replace the oil and water pumps while you are at it. If your engine is due for a rebuild, they probably need it as well. The rear main seal is a pain to get out. Just be careful and try not to mar the surface if you plan to reuse the old housing. If you get a new housing from the dealer, it will save you the trouble of having to pry it apart. You could probably get it apart without too much trouble if you have the right size socket and a nice small sledge hammer to drive it out. I used a similar method to get the seal in. It is tight!

When you are removing the rods (if you haven't already done it) I've found the easiest way is to remove the nuts and tap on the bolt ends with something, thus driving the rod away from the cap which is held in place by the crank journal.

Make SURE you only rotate the crank counter-clockwise, or you probably will screw up the cam timing. Be very careful with this, since intuition says to spin it the other way.

Be careful not to overtighten the small bolts in items like the oil pump and rear seal housing. They don't get torqued down very much - use a shop manual for the specs and only use a torgue wrench (beam type is best). I overtightened one and snapped it off in the block. Then I had to extract it which is a pain. Save yourself the trouble. It would be best to get new bolts, altho not completely necessary.

You don't absolutely need a ring compressor to put the pistons back in - I've managed it without one. Just be very careful and methodical about working the piston back in, one ring at a time, compressing the ring with your fingers while applying gentle pressure to the piston until it slides in. Of course, if you have a good ring compressor, it could certainly make it easier.

Use some hose or something over the rod bolts to protect the journal when you are sliding it back together. It will give you a lot of peace of mind that will make the job more pleasant. You don't want to have to worry about scuffing up your crank. Just find the right size hose and have it on hand before you start.

You can get the tranny on without a pilot tool (I couldn't find one anywhere) for the clutch, if you nest two sockets within each other. I found that two particular craftsman deep sockets (don't remember which), one of them metric and the other std, each with some scotch tape wrapped around them fit the bearings almost perfectly when you are lining up the clutch. But know that you might have to try more than once this way! I got it the first try the first time I reinstalled my tranny. The second time it took two tries, and it barely slid together at that...

There are a ton of other things I can't think of off the top of my head. But hopefully that will get you started. There really should be an engine building tips thread if there isn't already!

 

Appreciate you typing that out