My friend just got the J's Racing Catalog and they have shorter EP3 tie rod ends..Designed to solve the EP3 toe issue..I contacted ATSj and got quoted $250 for the set..I have a pic, I can forward it too someone with a more sophisticated computer than my piece

 

nice find!

 

i wanna see i need these badly

 

I have the pic if someone wants to host it for me

 

send me the pic gsxr97@hotmail.com i'll host it
thanks

 

Anything for DC5?

 

....i knew it was a matter of time before we started to see someone manufacture these

Modding my ep continues to taunt me.... someday :sighs:

 

ok bro I sent it

 

 

What is it supposed to solve?

 

dumb question but how do these actually work?

 

ep3= longer length steering arms including tie rods=toe in as car is lowered

dc5=shorter length steering arms including tie rods=toe out as car is lowered..

this in essence shortens the length of the steering arm giving you a greater range of toe adjustment

 

shorter tie rods/ends fix the toe-in condition when adding negative camber >2°.

basically, if you add more than -2° camber the tops of the struts come closer together and the tie rods push the back side of the hub out - causing toe-in...

 

It would be a moral assault on my character if I ever ran less than 2.5 deg

 

ive also fixed my lack of toe adjustment by inverting the tie rod ends on my dc5. this has allowed me to toe it out or in pretty much at will, as well as corrects the large steering rack angle. ill see what kinda pricing i can dig up on these arms for the ep3

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedWerx.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive also fixed my lack of toe adjustment by inverting the tie rod ends on my dc5. this has allowed me to toe it out or in pretty much at will, as well as corrects the large steering rack angle. ill see what kinda pricing i can dig up on these arms for the ep3</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you sell a flip kit? I need one bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedWerx.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive also fixed my lack of toe adjustment by inverting the tie rod ends on my dc5. this has allowed me to toe it out or in pretty much at will, as well as corrects the large steering rack angle. ill see what kinda pricing i can dig up on these arms for the ep3</TD></TR></TABLE>


I can understand this fixing the rack angle and therefore bump steer but what is your logic for saying you can adjust the toe? One has nothing to do with the other. The price I got for these was $250 for the pair

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Halo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It would be a moral assault on my character if I ever ran less than 2.5 deg </TD></TR></TABLE>
so as long as i am 0-2.5 i am ok without these?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iRRATiONAL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so as long as i am 0-2.5 i am ok without these?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i am using two crash bolts on each side of my flta2's and camber plates to get a little over -2 degrees with about 1/4" toe out....

i figure the bolts allow the bottom of the strut to move out as far as possible and i use the camber plates to adjust the top against the bottomed out tie rod ends to get the desired toe...

hard to say what you can get without knowing the rest of your setup...

 

no offense bro but running 2 sets of crash bolts is pretty dangerous and not smart..the crash bolts were never designed to support the entire weight of the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Halo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no offense bro but running 2 sets of crash bolts is pretty dangerous and not smart..the crash bolts were never designed to support the entire weight of the car</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the advice... i'll check them - but the honda bolts looked to be of considerably high quality. they are still tight (no slippage) after several months of auto-x)...

 

Can I ask you where you got this from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wiseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can I ask you where you got this from? </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Halo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend just got the J's Racing Catalog and they have shorter EP3 tie rod ends..</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

http://www.jsracing.co.jp/


email all of their u.s. distributors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Halo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no offense bro but running 2 sets of crash bolts is pretty dangerous and not smart..the crash bolts were never designed to support the entire weight of the car</TD></TR></TABLE>
did some research on factory crash bolts in the helms service manual for the ep3...

"The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or both of the damper pinch bolts with the smaller diameter adjusting bolt(s)."

word for word, out of the manual (page 18-5)... i think i'm gonna leave both in on my ep3 and just keep an eye on them!