for instance on the skunk 2 website they say that if u go for the stage 2 cams then u should upgrade ur valve train. what parts exactly would u get for a gsr motor to have a complete valve train upgrade. And would this allow u to rev much higher then the stock valve train.
How will this effect the bottom end if ur bottom end is stock and top end is built will revving high effect everything.. example of reving high would be 9000 on Gsr motor..

 

valves, springs, retainers, cam. and i guess even rocker arms.

 

I havent seen rocker arms on any of the sites as an upgrade.. such as on the skunk2 site they have most of the things u named.. does anyone else have any input on this.

 

As stated earlier, you'll want to get Titanium valve springs and retainers, a rocker arm is not essential but would be a plus, and the camshaft. For 9000RPM's, that'll be good for you, if you're just going stage 2 cams (N/A), I'd also suggest getting a Ceramic headgasket. You just need to upgrade your valves so you don't get what's considered "Valve float" which would mean your valve gets smacked with the piston. A three angle valve job would also help reduce this risk. Anyways, good luck man!

 

the valve springs are not titanium. the retainers are. you shouldn't get valve float with stock valves. valve float is caused by the valve springs. multi-angle valve jobs also do not prevent valve float. valve jobs help seal the valve seat. i use a metal mugen headgasket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Equilibrium &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As stated earlier, you'll want to get Titanium valve springs and retainers, a rocker arm is not essential but would be a plus, and the camshaft. For 9000RPM's, that'll be good for you, if you're just going stage 2 cams (N/A), I'd also suggest getting a Ceramic headgasket. You just need to upgrade your valves so you don't get what's considered "Valve float" which would mean your valve gets smacked with the piston. A three angle valve job would also help reduce this risk. Anyways, good luck man!</TD></TR></TABLE>

No titanium

http://www.rentoncoilspring.co...cing/ Doesnt' ..last very long, unless you like changing your valve springs weekly it's not for you.
Also valve floast isn't neccesarily hitting the piston, on some old low compression motors it would just mess up the valvetrain by jumping off the downward slope of the cam shaft and smashing into the valve seat.

Also the reason you want to upgrade the valvetrain is because the cams have more lift so that the valves have to do more work than they would otherwise. Stock cams are shorter and less steep sides so it requires less effort to keep the valve following the cam. Same reason hi rpms need stronger valve springs. more inertia from the increased valve speed.

...or so I've heard

::Also:: the higher rpm on the bottom end can contribute to rod bearing failure, that's what happened to my prelude.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pb16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the valve springs are not titanium. the retainers are. you shouldn't get valve float with stock valves. valve float is caused by the valve springs. multi-angle valve jobs also do not prevent valve float. valve jobs help seal the valve seat. i use a metal mugen headgasket. </TD></TR></TABLE>

To be safe however you'll want to upgrade the valve springs since they stock ones weren't designed for that agressive of cams.

 

valve guides I would do also

 

adjustable cam gears would be nice to tune the cams with the nice new valve train

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red91sit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

To be safe however you'll want to upgrade the valve springs since they stock ones weren't designed for that agressive of cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes... that's why cam manufacturers recommend them.

 

Just a side note, red91sit stated that the higher rpm can contribute to rod bearing failure. I've heard of that occurring when you push the rod bolts, they stretch, and the bearings will get damaged, sometimes by sliding over eachother. If you plan on pushing the rpm a bit higher than the current redline I'd also recommend getting some ARP rod bolts.

 

-valves
-springs
-titanium retainers
-cams
-stock honda valve seals (might as well while you got it apart)

FYI-valve float is when the valve springs won't rebound the valve fast enough between the times the rocker arm pushes the valve down, thus never allowing the valve to return to it's top position (hence valve "float").

 

what kinda kit is there fore me to buy as far as building my head. and upgrading my valve train are there any valve train kits out there kinda like stroker kits and what. not.

and i have also heard that the stock gsr rod bearings would probably be the best bearings to actually use.

 

valvetrain kits? i'd contact rocket on this forum... pm him with your intentions. he'll point you in the right direction. even if it's not to promote his own products.