I bought a new dizzy and a used ecu and I still throw a code 4. I am wondering, it's a long shot, the spark plugs that are on the car soaked in raw fuel for a while (1 week) and I used light heat from a blw torch to get them dry. The car idles and fires up fine but I am wondering if maybe the plugs or some of them are the cause for the code. Is this possible? I don't know that th ecu is 100% working fine because I bought it used but even my "fixed ecu" throws the same code. Any help greatly appreciated.

 

code 4 is the crankshaft position sensor...It is not the spark plugs. Is this a swap or a stock engine? Is the car timed properly?

 

did you swap a new motor in if so check the 2 wires for the cps to the ecu..

 

Motor (b16a OBD0) was running perfect until ECU burned. I "fixed" the ecu by soldering the burnt circuit and I got a code 4. I replaced the ecu with another one and I am still getting a code 4. I checked the old dizzy and figured it was toast so I replaced that. Now, I am still getting the stupid code. I am puzzled, could cam timing cuase this if it is off? I noticed that on the harness conector gojng to the dizzy there are two white wires and one orange. Are those two white wires running to the same place? If the wires were to be crossed could this cause a code?

 

I would check the wiring between the ECU & distributor first. I've had a code 4 twice, and it was always the distributor (both times were after I got it back from moto-parts.com).

 

check your wiring.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bryse68 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your wiring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bryse68 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your wiring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read my saga, we are both checking wiring - https://honda-tech.com/zero...67498

 

So I am assuming that there must be an open somewhere in the orange or white wires. Resistance between the two is 326 ohms. It should be between 350-550 according to fsm. So what does an open mean exaclty?should I run my wires directly to distributor? Where does the orange wire go to? where do the two white wires go to?

 

Weird thing is though ecu throws code after the car fires up. When the key is on the "on" position ecu does not blink and there is no CEL.

 

Finally got it fixed. For future reference, the B12 connector on the ECU had come loose when I unplugged it. Next project, solder all wires going to ECU so this won't happen again.