Hoping someone here can help me with my problem. I have a 1st gen JDM B16A and it's a fresh rebuild. The motor has about 10,000 km since rebuild.

JDM b16a motor (fully rebuilt top to bottom)
Toda Spec B camshafts
Jun Cam gears
Port matched Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
EG Fuel Rail
Prelude Injectors
SRR Oil catch can with Steel braided lines (PCV)
Integra Type R valve springs
Integra Type R retainers
0.5mm oversize PR3 Pistons
3 angle valve job
knife-edged, balanced and lightened crankshaft
fully balanced bottom end
JDM S1 (J1) cable transmission
Energy Suspension Shifter bushing kit
Redshift mount kit with poly urethane bushings
Z-Speed short shifter
T1R lightweight battery
T1R earthing kit
Exedy Organic clutch kit
Spoon Flywheel
Spoon Reservoir cover
68 mm taper bored ITR throttle body
Custom 3" short ram intake
B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge
Spoon Vtec Controller
Hondata Stage 2 ECU - dynotuned
HKS 4-2-1 header
Greddy SP catback exhaust with test pipe
NGK spark plug wires
NGK copper spark plugs

I did break-in for 6500 km. The first time it was actually floored was on the dyno getting tuned. The first 2 runs it was spewing a ton of blue smoke but after that it was perfectly fine with no signs of blue at all. The motor ended up making 177 whp and 125 ft-lbs @ 7000 rpm on a dynamometer.

Problem is it burns a lot of oil sometimes and most of the time it's fine. Last time on the track (road course) after 3 hard laps the car was just pouring out blue smoke. I actually got black flagged because they thought I blew my motor. But after letting it idle for a few minutes in the pit it was perfectly fine again. It would keep doing this when ever I do a few hard laps. But if I did 2 hard laps and a cool down lap it would be fine. I didn't have my catch can at this time and I was running 5W 30 regular oil.

Last week I was going up a pretty long hill and again it started blowing a lot of blue smoke half way up the hill. I was shifting at 4000 rpm and cruising at 3500 rpm on the way up. When I got to the top of the hill and drove for a couple of minutes it was fine again. I had my brother follow me while I redline one gear and he said it was blowing blue.

I did a leak down a couple months back and the numbers were pretty good. I can't remember the numbers exactly but I'll be doing another soon. I just remember all were fine except #3. It was a little below the others.

Any help would be appreciated.

TIA.

 

Sounds like your having ring seating problems. I know you said you did your break in but sometimes, certain ring sets either take A VERY LONG time to seat or never seat at all. As for cylinder #3, its usually always a little lower compression test wise. A few questions though:

Did you use the right spec rings for your application?

Who was the manufacturer of the rings?

Possible that the block was over hone or honed too many times?

 

bringing it back up from the dead for an update.

About 30,000km on the build now. I'm now running 10w30 and it is better but still burns oil on decel and WOT.

Compression test: 200 200 197 200 (#s seem low. I tested my friend's b17a1 (bone stock) with the same compression tester and his were up around the 210 range)
leak down: 1% 1% 2% 1%

I'm pretty sure it's the rings. Unfortunately, I can't remember what brand the pistons are but it came with the rings and pins. Rings were gapped and were the right ones. Anyone have any other suggestions before I buy a b16 block, PCT pistons and OEM rings?

What a waste of time and money

 

Here's the deal honda rings are meant to seat fast, just because they don't count on selling cars to the perfect owner. So look into the OEM rings and make sure your piston to wall clearence is to OEM spec if using OEM stuff. But before you redo it, check out the valve seals and the PVC valve if you haven't already removed it. Good luck

 

my car blows blue smoke when in vtec no too horribly mad but bad enough and after a hard run it smokes alittle as well. i have 4k on my rebuild i think the shop over honed it. those bastards. but it doesnt seem to consume too much oil. i made 27 dyno pulls tuning my car one day and only burnt like 1/3 of a qt. i was thinkin it might be my valve seals being worn. damn toda c's

 

toda spec b cam with itr valvetrain?

 

You're using Toda Spec B cams with an ITR valvetrain? Yikes.

 

hey, im interested in your steering wheel in the for sale forum. for some reason i cant post in that forum, so shoot me an email w/ more info/price.

thanks

 

if the smoke is blue at startup after its sat for a few id say the valve seals are shot

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bc_ef8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bringing it back up from the dead for an update.

About 30,000km on the build now. I'm now running 10w30 and it is better but still burns oil on decel and WOT.

Compression test: 200 200 197 200 (#s seem low. I tested my friend's b17a1 (bone stock) with the same compression tester and his were up around the 210 range)
leak down: 1% 1% 2% 1%

I'm pretty sure it's the rings. Unfortunately, I can't remember what brand the pistons are but it came with the rings and pins. Rings were gapped and were the right ones. Anyone have any other suggestions before I buy a b16 block, PCT pistons and OEM rings?

What a waste of time and money </TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like valve seals to me

 

yea what he said i also thin that

 

but would valve seals cause burning blue at WOT? I thought it would only be on decel. Myabe I have it's a combination of valve seals and oil control rings?

 

iin to find out, my car is doing the same thing

doing leak down and compression test 2morrow

 

my car does the same thing. If I drive normally for a while it won't do anything, but if i go to wot once, it blows smoke and clears it out, if i do it again it won't smoke. Also when the car sits overnight it will smoke blue at startup. Everyone has been telling me its valve seals, i have 20k on the block and 140k on the head. Its like while driving normally under vacumn oil, gets sucked into the combustion chamber, then at wot, with higher revs and higher temps, burns out that excess oil. I'm planning on rebuilding my head within a month or too. I really started to notice my problem when I put on my test pipe.