Can't decide on Spring rates...
Alright I just got my income tax money back and I plan on getting Omni Power coilovers. My only problem is I don't know witch spring rate is best for me, (Street F=10k R=8k or Sport F=12k R=10k). I have never ridden in a lowered car so don't know how harsh of a ride this spring rates are. I want to try and do some auto crossing this summer, but the majority (about 80%) of my driving will be done on the street. My question is, which spring rate is best overall for me? I was leaning more towards the street, but I don't know how stiff 10k 8k is. So yeah which in your guyses opinion will be good for me?
thanks a bunch,
-Eric
thanks a bunch,
-Eric
if youve never ridden in a lowered car and have no idea how harsh its going to be, go for lower rates. 1kg/mm= 56lbs/in so... 10x56= 560lb and 8x56= 448, I currently run 8front/10rear and its pretty firm, a little too much for most people.
just think, standard ground control rates are 350/250, and stock is probably 150-200 front and rear progressive. and you want to go for 560/448 or higher?? if you are young enough it'll be ok for a little bit, but if you drive alot/are a old man your back/*** is going to pay for it.
I have a cx hatch so its much lighter so it'll feel much stiffer than your em1(99si?)
also you dont want it to be too stiff if you are running street tires.
just think, standard ground control rates are 350/250, and stock is probably 150-200 front and rear progressive. and you want to go for 560/448 or higher?? if you are young enough it'll be ok for a little bit, but if you drive alot/are a old man your back/*** is going to pay for it.
I have a cx hatch so its much lighter so it'll feel much stiffer than your em1(99si?)
also you dont want it to be too stiff if you are running street tires.
The most important issue with retaining ride quality is matching proper damping (eg, valving) with your desired spring rate.
Make sure to install resuse (if possible) your bumpstops when you install your new setup, otherwise you could damage/prematurly wear out your shocks and then your ride quality will really go to ****.
About spring rates, when I had my prelude cornerweighted, it got the actual weight per corner. So on my car, or example, the front of my prelude is 1800lbs or 900lbs per wheel. The rear is 1200lbs total or 600lbs per wheel.
Knowing that, you can gauge where you should start on spring rates; i.e.,
Race Rates are usually 1:1 cornerweight to spring rate or higher
Road and Track rates are usually .75-.9:1 cornerweight to spring rate
Street rates would probably be a .33:1 cornerweight to spring rate
And again, the most important part of the equation here is the damper valving; if it's not up to the job, the ride's going to suck no matter what the spring rates are. People carry around the misconception that high spring rates cause a harsh/bad ride, when in reality using a shock that can't handle the spring rate being used is the real problem.
Make sure to install resuse (if possible) your bumpstops when you install your new setup, otherwise you could damage/prematurly wear out your shocks and then your ride quality will really go to ****.
About spring rates, when I had my prelude cornerweighted, it got the actual weight per corner. So on my car, or example, the front of my prelude is 1800lbs or 900lbs per wheel. The rear is 1200lbs total or 600lbs per wheel.
Knowing that, you can gauge where you should start on spring rates; i.e.,
Race Rates are usually 1:1 cornerweight to spring rate or higher
Road and Track rates are usually .75-.9:1 cornerweight to spring rate
Street rates would probably be a .33:1 cornerweight to spring rate
And again, the most important part of the equation here is the damper valving; if it's not up to the job, the ride's going to suck no matter what the spring rates are. People carry around the misconception that high spring rates cause a harsh/bad ride, when in reality using a shock that can't handle the spring rate being used is the real problem.
You'd have to call KYB and ask as I don't know.
I do know that off the shelf Koni Sports are good up to a 400lbs spring rate.
My point in emphasizing the need for proper valving was two part; 1, to clear up the misconception that stiff springs cause a harsh ride and 2, to urge people to talk to the shock manufactures, personally, and discuss their setups, spring rates and driving needs directly because they're the ones who actually (or should) know exactly what their components are meant to handle and what they're not meant to handle.
I do know that off the shelf Koni Sports are good up to a 400lbs spring rate.
My point in emphasizing the need for proper valving was two part; 1, to clear up the misconception that stiff springs cause a harsh ride and 2, to urge people to talk to the shock manufactures, personally, and discuss their setups, spring rates and driving needs directly because they're the ones who actually (or should) know exactly what their components are meant to handle and what they're not meant to handle.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6h22a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'd have to call KYB and ask as I don't know.
I do know that off the shelf Koni Sports are good up to a 400lbs spring rate.
My point in emphasizing the need for proper valving was two part; 1, to clear up the misconception that stiff springs cause a harsh ride and 2, to urge people to talk to the shock manufactures, personally, and discuss their setups, spring rates and driving needs directly because they're the ones who actually (or should) know exactly what their components are meant to handle and what they're not meant to handle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually OTS konis are good up to around 550-600 lbs. it's not ideal, but they'll dampen that much spring.
I do know that off the shelf Koni Sports are good up to a 400lbs spring rate.
My point in emphasizing the need for proper valving was two part; 1, to clear up the misconception that stiff springs cause a harsh ride and 2, to urge people to talk to the shock manufactures, personally, and discuss their setups, spring rates and driving needs directly because they're the ones who actually (or should) know exactly what their components are meant to handle and what they're not meant to handle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually OTS konis are good up to around 550-600 lbs. it's not ideal, but they'll dampen that much spring.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
actually OTS konis are good up to around 550-600 lbs. it's not ideal, but they'll dampen that much spring.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I stand corrected. Thank you.
actually OTS konis are good up to around 550-600 lbs. it's not ideal, but they'll dampen that much spring.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I stand corrected. Thank you.
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