ITR rods on a GS-R crank what bearings to order??
hey guys
did a search with not much luck. and my local Acura wasn't any help either
seems honda is sending ITR rods instead of GS-R rods. i can run ITR not a problem
any who my question is the options for GS-R range from 1-4 being stamped on the rod and A-D on the Crank.
ITR rods have two numbers stamped on the rod and the ITR crank has t-v i believe.
any help is aprieciated
FYI 3 rods i got have 24 one has 25 and my GS_R crank is stamped C..
thanx
Modified by xparkesx at 12:16 AM 3/9/2005
did a search with not much luck. and my local Acura wasn't any help either
seems honda is sending ITR rods instead of GS-R rods. i can run ITR not a problem
any who my question is the options for GS-R range from 1-4 being stamped on the rod and A-D on the Crank.
ITR rods have two numbers stamped on the rod and the ITR crank has t-v i believe.
any help is aprieciated
FYI 3 rods i got have 24 one has 25 and my GS_R crank is stamped C..
thanx
Modified by xparkesx at 12:16 AM 3/9/2005
i had the same problem.
i just ordered all greens for the rods and they all measured out within spec.
i think you will either have to get a machine shop to measure the rod and the crank and then figure out what bearing you need. or you can do like me and buy the greens and measure them wth plastigauge.
i just ordered all greens for the rods and they all measured out within spec.
i think you will either have to get a machine shop to measure the rod and the crank and then figure out what bearing you need. or you can do like me and buy the greens and measure them wth plastigauge.
you would think if honda is sending ITR rods to replace GS-R rods they'd have some new chart for bearings.
thanx for the quick reply
thanx for the quick reply
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From what my uncle told me(he's a certified mechanic and works for saturn at our local dealership)what you do is get that serial number that's right under that B18C1 on the engine block.After you get that,take a look at your crankshaft and there should also be a serial number on there too and get that as well.Take it to your local dealership's parts department and they should hook you up with the right color coded bearings.I was thinking about going with some oem rod and main bearings but haven't decided yet,also just the fact that they cost a little too much makes me think twice about it.But then again,what is more reliable than oem?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xparkesx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys
did a search with not much luck. and my local Acura wasn't any help either
seems honda is sending ITR rods instead of GS-R rods. i can run ITR not a problem
any who my question is the options for GS-R range from 1-4 being stamped on the rod and A-D on the Crank.
ITR rods have two numbers stamped on the rod and the ITR crank has t-v o believe.
do i drop teh 2nd number? any help is aprieciated
FYI 3 rods i got have 24 one has 25 and my GS_R crank is stamped C..
thanx
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xparkesx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guysdid a search with not much luck. and my local Acura wasn't any help either
seems honda is sending ITR rods instead of GS-R rods. i can run ITR not a problem
any who my question is the options for GS-R range from 1-4 being stamped on the rod and A-D on the Crank.
ITR rods have two numbers stamped on the rod and the ITR crank has t-v o believe.
do i drop teh 2nd number? any help is aprieciated
FYI 3 rods i got have 24 one has 25 and my GS_R crank is stamped C..
thanx
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsTypeGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what my uncle told me(he's a certified mechanic and works for saturn at our local dealership)what you do is get that serial number that's right under that B18C1 on the engine block.After you get that,take a look at your crankshaft and there should also be a serial number on there too and get that as well.Take it to your local dealership's parts department and they should hook you up with the right color coded bearings.I was thinking about going with some oem rod and main bearings but haven't decided yet,also just the fact that they cost a little too much makes me think twice about it.But then again,what is more reliable than oem?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i guess that explains why he works for saturn...
</TD></TR></TABLE>well i guess that explains why he works for saturn...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsTypeGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what my uncle told me(he's a certified mechanic and works for saturn at our local dealership)what you do is get that serial number that's right under that B18C1 on the engine block.After you get that,take a look at your crankshaft and there should also be a serial number on there too and get that as well.Take it to your local dealership's parts department and they should hook you up with the right color coded bearings.I was thinking about going with some oem rod and main bearings but haven't decided yet,also just the fact that they cost a little too much makes me think twice about it.But then again,what is more reliable than oem?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah that's my next step. Acura said they need the VIN to call Acura tech to get the right info. just wondered if anyone had the conversion chart
thanx for the replies guys
</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah that's my next step. Acura said they need the VIN to call Acura tech to get the right info. just wondered if anyone had the conversion chart
thanx for the replies guys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xparkesx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump again for OEM bearings</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would you continue to "bump" something after the problem has been resolved and discussed to resolution? No point. And just because something is "OEM" doesn't make it better. Then again, those who don't really understand things tend to grasp on to what they know works.
Why would you continue to "bump" something after the problem has been resolved and discussed to resolution? No point. And just because something is "OEM" doesn't make it better. Then again, those who don't really understand things tend to grasp on to what they know works.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you continue to "bump" something after the problem has been resolved and discussed to resolution? No point. And just because something is "OEM" doesn't make it better. Then again, those who don't really understand things tend to grasp on to what they know works.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well first the problem has not been resolved. i have not recieved any information to help me in getting OEM rod bearings for my specific application. i have been told of non OEM replacement bearings which from what i can tell from the websites have no specific application to my situation. meaning for this rod and this crank use this. according to my helms no specific bore size is giving per rod or per crank. only numbers and letters to match accordingly. my reason for OEM is because that way i am positive of the right size for my applicatoin and also if Honda OEM isn't the best, why would they continue to run 100k plus miles. especially motors that rev past 8k rpm regularly. they sound great to me.
next time instead of posting something to belittle the poster, why don't you just click back and continue to browse.
thanx for the bump though
well first the problem has not been resolved. i have not recieved any information to help me in getting OEM rod bearings for my specific application. i have been told of non OEM replacement bearings which from what i can tell from the websites have no specific application to my situation. meaning for this rod and this crank use this. according to my helms no specific bore size is giving per rod or per crank. only numbers and letters to match accordingly. my reason for OEM is because that way i am positive of the right size for my applicatoin and also if Honda OEM isn't the best, why would they continue to run 100k plus miles. especially motors that rev past 8k rpm regularly. they sound great to me.
next time instead of posting something to belittle the poster, why don't you just click back and continue to browse.
thanx for the bump though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xparkesx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well first the problem has not been resolved. i have not recieved any information to help me in getting OEM rod bearings for my specific application. i have been told of non OEM replacement bearings which from what i can tell from the websites have no specific application to my situation. meaning for this rod and this crank use this. according to my helms no specific bore size is giving per rod or per crank. only numbers and letters to match accordingly. my reason for OEM is because that way i am positive of the right size for my applicatoin and also if Honda OEM isn't the best, why would they continue to run 100k plus miles. especially motors that rev past 8k rpm regularly. they sound great to me.
next time instead of posting something to belittle the poster, why don't you just click back and continue to browse.
thanx for the bump though
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ACL's are just as good, if not better, then the Honda OEM bearings. This has been proven time and time again. If all you need for proof is "It can run 100k+ miles with frequent trips to 8 grand" then you should be sold.
It was posted above that someone in your situtation simply purchased all "green" bearings and plastigauged them to verify clearances. They also reported that they were all within spec. This is why I said your question was answered.
The numbers and letters stamped on the crank/rods will always point you to a specific color. But this color is not always the correct thickness to use. Plastigauge will help to point this out, or if you really want to be 100% sure, bust out the mic's and check that way. Then you will know for sure. My advise would be to order the "green" GSR rod bearings and go from there. The width of the bearings is the same for the GSR rods and ITR rods. So there is a solid answer for you.
well first the problem has not been resolved. i have not recieved any information to help me in getting OEM rod bearings for my specific application. i have been told of non OEM replacement bearings which from what i can tell from the websites have no specific application to my situation. meaning for this rod and this crank use this. according to my helms no specific bore size is giving per rod or per crank. only numbers and letters to match accordingly. my reason for OEM is because that way i am positive of the right size for my applicatoin and also if Honda OEM isn't the best, why would they continue to run 100k plus miles. especially motors that rev past 8k rpm regularly. they sound great to me.
next time instead of posting something to belittle the poster, why don't you just click back and continue to browse.
thanx for the bump though
</TD></TR></TABLE>ACL's are just as good, if not better, then the Honda OEM bearings. This has been proven time and time again. If all you need for proof is "It can run 100k+ miles with frequent trips to 8 grand" then you should be sold.
It was posted above that someone in your situtation simply purchased all "green" bearings and plastigauged them to verify clearances. They also reported that they were all within spec. This is why I said your question was answered.
The numbers and letters stamped on the crank/rods will always point you to a specific color. But this color is not always the correct thickness to use. Plastigauge will help to point this out, or if you really want to be 100% sure, bust out the mic's and check that way. Then you will know for sure. My advise would be to order the "green" GSR rod bearings and go from there. The width of the bearings is the same for the GSR rods and ITR rods. So there is a solid answer for you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ACL's are just as good, if not better, then the Honda OEM bearings. This has been proven time and time again. If all you need for proof is "It can run 100k+ miles with frequent trips to 8 grand" then you should be sold.
It was posted above that someone in your situtation simply purchased all "green" bearings and plastigauged them to verify clearances. They also reported that they were all within spec. This is why I said your question was answered.
The numbers and letters stamped on the crank/rods will always point you to a specific color. But this color is not always the correct thickness to use. Plastigauge will help to point this out, or if you really want to be 100% sure, bust out the mic's and check that way. Then you will know for sure. My advise would be to order the "green" GSR rod bearings and go from there. The width of the bearings is the same for the GSR rods and ITR rods. So there is a solid answer for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well why couldn't you say that in the first post, instead of talking down. i thought this was about sharing info.
It was posted above that someone in your situtation simply purchased all "green" bearings and plastigauged them to verify clearances. They also reported that they were all within spec. This is why I said your question was answered.
The numbers and letters stamped on the crank/rods will always point you to a specific color. But this color is not always the correct thickness to use. Plastigauge will help to point this out, or if you really want to be 100% sure, bust out the mic's and check that way. Then you will know for sure. My advise would be to order the "green" GSR rod bearings and go from there. The width of the bearings is the same for the GSR rods and ITR rods. So there is a solid answer for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well why couldn't you say that in the first post, instead of talking down. i thought this was about sharing info.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xparkesx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well why couldn't you say that in the first post, instead of talking down. i thought this was about sharing info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a well respected tuner told you to use ACL (Rocket) isnt that good enough....?
well why couldn't you say that in the first post, instead of talking down. i thought this was about sharing info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a well respected tuner told you to use ACL (Rocket) isnt that good enough....?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by envision2teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a well respected tuner told you to use ACL (Rocket) isnt that good enough....?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well my well respected tuner told me to go for honda. some like oranges, some like apples.
thanx for the input, but i'd still like to stick to OEM since i've already gone OEM for the thrust and main bearings.
well my well respected tuner told me to go for honda. some like oranges, some like apples.
thanx for the input, but i'd still like to stick to OEM since i've already gone OEM for the thrust and main bearings.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicross »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would also recommend the ACL Race series as well. Not because I sell them, but because guys have had excellent success with them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually i just emailed you guys at tuners choice about it. thanx
actually i just emailed you guys at tuners choice about it. thanx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xparkesx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well why couldn't you say that in the first post, instead of talking down. i thought this was about sharing info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because I am a tool.
well why couldn't you say that in the first post, instead of talking down. i thought this was about sharing info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because I am a tool.
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