why does my battery die, i disconnected the radio, actually i took out the fuse that powers the dome lights radio and clock, came back the next morning, my battery is drained. yesterday i disconnnected my amps power wire and again my battery is dead. I did this dxb16 crx a month ago it runs exelent, but for some reason my battery dies. i know its no the radio nor my amps. i dont have a dome light it took it off, I also took out the door sensors that turn on the look like L's could they be the ones killing my battery,? OR DID I miss a pin out when i did the wiring on the computer, which i doubt because it dont throw no codes. Big Question what is killing my battery.?

 

maybe its just an old battery and cant hold a charge. thats normal and is the reason you buy a new battery.

why do you think there is a drain? have you taken an ammeter to measure the current draw on your battery? i think youre trying to solve this problem by skipping ahead of actually figuring out what the problem is.

 

its a brand new battery EXIDE Orbital. sorry i forgot to note that the battery was new, i always have to jump start it everymorning. i know the alternator is good because the voltage starts climbing to 14v after the car is running, i let it idel for a good 15 min and the it charges, but something over night kills the battery, do you think i may have a defective battery. about the only electrical upgrades i have done are relocated the battery to the rear hatch.

 

still dies!

 

I am having a similar problem. I noticed when I relocated the battery to the rear I wasnt able to play my stereo for even 10 mins without having to jumpstart it. I am thinking that I have a bad ground to the battery which isnt letting the alternater charge up the battery quick enough. I was thinking of using another 1/0 gauge wire (along with the positive) for the ground all the way back up to the engine bay. Our frames are only spot welded together so I am thinking that the engine ground isnt getting to the battery ground through the chassis very well. This is just a theory! I will be checking the resistance between the front and rear grounds to see what's up when I get a chance.

 

Here is what you do.
With the car off....
Set up your amp meter, take off the ground on the battery. connect the ground from the battery to the positive of your amp meter and the ground cable to the negative of your amp meter. See if there is excessive drain. If the reading is greater then 0.25 amps there is a draw somewhere.
Have someone sit in the car and pull the fuses out one by one. This will tell you what circuit to inspect

 

i did a DPFI to MPFI do you think i forgot to cancel 1 wires that draws current or something.

 

well ..........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchBox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is what you do.
With the car off....
Set up your amp meter, take off the ground on the battery. connect the ground from the battery to the positive of your amp meter and the ground cable to the negative of your amp meter. See if there is excessive drain. If the reading is greater then 0.25 amps there is a draw somewhere.
Have someone sit in the car and pull the fuses out one by one. This will tell you what circuit to inspect </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

the power wires stays on the battery correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxh22project &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the power wires stays on the battery correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, only take off the ground side cable. and check for amps between the neg terminal and the ground cable

 

another thing i noticed is that my power wire gets really hot 8 inches from the battery only WTF is going on, its a 4ga wire, im going to put the battery under the hood see if i still have the same problem. what do you think?

 

its not dead, ground the car properly, like where you grounded, make sure there is NO paint on the surface area, other white the lead and clear cout will no hold ground., i ran into same problem, and punch myself in the head soo many times for not thinking about it.

 

thanks ill try that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am having a similar problem. I noticed when I relocated the battery to the rear I wasnt able to play my stereo for even 10 mins without having to jumpstart it. I am thinking that I have a bad ground to the battery which isnt letting the alternater charge up the battery quick enough. I was thinking of using another 1/0 gauge wire (along with the positive) for the ground all the way back up to the engine bay. Our frames are only spot welded together so I am thinking that the engine ground isnt getting to the battery ground through the chassis very well. This is just a theory! I will be checking the resistance between the front and rear grounds to see what's up when I get a chance. </TD></TR></TABLE>

always use 0 gauge on ground and power cables when you reloacate battery to back. dont cheap yourself into 2 more material with 1ga ground keep it all 0

 

if a 4 gauge wire heats up, that means theres A LOT of current going through it.

just try hooking up an ammeter, its not like its hard

 

i bought a cheap 15 dollar multimeter and it blew! im taking that **** back to checkers tomorrow

 

i tried it from stock location and the battery doesn't die anymore,this means either the ground was not enough or 4 ga is too thin.

 

if it heated up when you weren't cranking, that means there was a short somewhere that the 4 gauge wire was shorting out to the ground, probably through the firewall.

 

Test the Alternator and grounds. Sounds like you are jump starting the car but the battery is not getting charged. The Alternator should put out 14.1 volts during charge and the battery should have 12.7 after you shut it down. Also the age of the battery can have something to do with it-have it load tested too.