ok i have a 1991 civic si, i just dropped a b16 1st gen in it, its converted to odb-1. When i drive it now the check engine light flashes while driving and it idles up and down at a stop between 1300-1500. The guy who put it in said once i get a chipped ECU the check engine light will go away. I am useing a stock p28 ecu right now, does that sound right to you guys. Thanks. He said he still has to adjust and play with the idle.

 

What codes are you getting??

 

im not getting any codes cuz the ecu doesnt have the light on it, it has the screw instead of the light. Do you think he is right by saying all i need is a chipped ecu have u ever heard of this? thanks

 

anyone have a clue if, that is all i need a chipped ecu, also im running open header i have to weld the exhust back on if that has anythiing to do with it, i dout it thou. plzz someone let me know so i dont get all worried . Thanks guys

 

bumppp

 

anyone ???

 

if you converted everyrthing over to obd1 then you need to check your codes by the number of timese your check engine light blinks, that is if you wired that up coffectly. chipping the ecu will bypass whatever the problem is but it wont fix it. find out what the code is and get it fixed.

 

ok it keeps blinking thou all the time i drive should i just count how many times it blinks, thanks for answering me

 

ohh yeah if you are running a p28 ecu thats for a single cam motor maybe thats why your b16 is running like crap.

 

yes count the number of times it blinks long blinks=10 and short ones are one count them then type the number into the search to find out what your problem is. you dont even have to drive it just turn it on.

 

ok thanks what computer should i use and what do u mean by this "long blinks=10 and short ones are one " sorry im slow lol

 

it should be pretty obvious when they blink. if it holds the blink for a couple seconds that means it counts as 10 blinks if it is one quick one then it counts as one blink add up the blinks and that is the code.... if you have multiple codes there will be a pause and then another series of blinks and to run a b16 obd1 you are going to want a p30 ecu out of a 92-95 Del Sol VTEC model.

 

i would get a gsr ecu since your obd-1. if you go back to obd-0 i would use the pr3 ecu or a pr4 ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHOBIA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would get a gsr ecu since your obd-1. if you go back to obd-0 i would use the pr3 ecu or a pr4 ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if its just a stock b16 no need to get a gsr ecu just get the p30 it is what you need.

 

He can run uberdata with the p28..Or try and find a obd1 pr3

 

it came stock with a pr3 if its a jdm motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHOBIA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it came stock with a pr3 if its a jdm motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not necessarily It could have come with a pr3 or a pw0

 

why did you convert it to obd1? too much headache... i would leave it obd0 and count the flashies, and reflash ecu gets rid of some stuff, sometimes, but if its wired wrong, it will still does wierd things

 

Ther P28 shouldn't be throwing a code as long as the installer put all the wires in the right place.

On OBD-1 you don't have a light on the ECU.
Try putting a paperclip in the service connector under the glove box.
If your OBD-1 conversion was wired correctly, the CEL in your gauge cluster should start blinking out the trouble codes. Long blinks = 10 and short blinks = 1. I you were to get 2 long blinks immediately followed by 5 short blinks it would be code 25. Sometimes there are more than one code. Codes are separated by a short blank pause.

Best bet is to get an OBD-1 PR3 or P30 (B16 ECU's) and sell that P28.
On the other hand, you could get your P28 chipped with the P30 maps, but you wouldn't be utilizing the knock sensor that's on your engine. That's really not that big of a deal, but it's up to you.

You idle problem sounds like a vacuum leak or a FITV problem.

 

ok guys thanks alot for the help, what it did was this 1 long blink then puase then it blink again 4 times so i think that is 14, but it didint go away after that it kept repeating itself. Is it suppost to go away after it does it once or will it keep doing it. Then i changed the computer to a skunk chipped p28 and it just stayed lit the whole time
it didint blink or anything, Thanks guys just let me know what it is and what i could do to fix this .

 

anyone ?

 

14 is idle air controler, could be caused by either incorrect wiring, or faulty iac, or bad seal wich would cause vaccum leak. , yes u need p30 ecu, is that the one you have? because its not gonna run right with the D series ecu, totally different...also ive seen this in a couple swaps, usually, its the timing thats off that causes the car to fast idle. check both distributor, and crank timing


Modified by gold EF at 11:04 PM 3/1/2005


Modified by gold EF at 11:04 PM 3/1/2005


Modified by gold EF at 11:09 PM 3/1/2005

 

when the light stays on solid like that, it means the ECU is bad.
It probably started up and wouln't rev past 3,500 either.

Check the IAC wiring. Sounds like it's not right.

 

Ok forget everyone that says get a different ECU
You need to chip your ECU.
Order a chip from JKOBD.com http://jkobd.com/tuning.htm
I recommend getting the All Motor chip, thats what i have.

chipping your ECU won't solve your problem but it's the road you want to go with that ECU.
I don't know what your wiring situation is, if you got a JKOBD harness or a boomslang harness. I know JKOBD has tech support and his instructions that come with the harness explain how to check codes. Glad you figured it out anyway.

Like gold EF said - First check your wiring, then replace the sensor. if neither work it's something else.
How's your O2 wiring? is it the correct 4 wire O2?
That will also cause a loping idle.

And OBD1 is better, forget those guys saying you shouldnt have upgraded. Good job and good luck!

Checkout Rywire.com.

 

i agree, but best way to go, is get a p28 ecu, and chip it, cause it has the least amount of sensors to run, and if you chip and remap the fuel, youll have a badass computer : P with minimal sensors, so minimal codes. u have a p28 so, your good to go, but still need to check wiring...