Questions about my 2000 ls
Hey, name's Adam, i'm new to the forum's, what's up everybody?
Just a buddy told me about this sight, said it's a good place to get info, just curious.
I have a 2000 LS, and already have some parts in mind, the typical intake, exhaust, coilovers and struts, but besides this, what's a good direction to start? I'm going to go mostly all motor, so if anyone has any clues where to go from here, it'd be appreciated. Thanks!
Just a buddy told me about this sight, said it's a good place to get info, just curious.
I have a 2000 LS, and already have some parts in mind, the typical intake, exhaust, coilovers and struts, but besides this, what's a good direction to start? I'm going to go mostly all motor, so if anyone has any clues where to go from here, it'd be appreciated. Thanks!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamonkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Search is your best friend!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fixed, in the Air Force, have 5 years left, just need any suggestion for brands, like I have some stuff in mind, just not really sure what's good.
I'm kinda new to the market, so still learning all the brands and such, any help would be appreciated!
I'm kinda new to the market, so still learning all the brands and such, any help would be appreciated!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First calculate a budget, whether fixed or ongoing and then go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and whatever you do, don't cut corners and waste time getting something now, just to replace it with something better later.
and whatever you do, don't cut corners and waste time getting something now, just to replace it with something better later.
With I/H/E on an LS you'll be lucky to gain over 15 HP...
Unless you plan on paying for alignment more than once, forget the coilovers and get some springs and shocks.
If you forget about I/H/E and add that savings to the savings from getting normal springs, you'll be more than half way to getting a Jackson Racing supercharger!
There's no way you'll match the gains from an SC(60HP) or turbo for under $2500 so, unless you want to spend tons of money or just make a lot of noise, I'd rethink the all-motor strategy if I was you...
Unless you plan on paying for alignment more than once, forget the coilovers and get some springs and shocks.
If you forget about I/H/E and add that savings to the savings from getting normal springs, you'll be more than half way to getting a Jackson Racing supercharger!
There's no way you'll match the gains from an SC(60HP) or turbo for under $2500 so, unless you want to spend tons of money or just make a lot of noise, I'd rethink the all-motor strategy if I was you...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jasonw »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's no way you'll match the gains from an SC(60HP) or turbo for under $2500 so, unless you want to spend tons of money or just make a lot of noise, I'd rethink the all-motor strategy if I was you...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pity the supercharger doesn't fall into the category of "all motor."
Realistically, a properly built LS/V isn't out of the questions along with a few bolt-on's to liven it up a bit.
Pity the supercharger doesn't fall into the category of "all motor."
Realistically, a properly built LS/V isn't out of the questions along with a few bolt-on's to liven it up a bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by njandrewg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NA wiht the LS is not really worth it...if u want some real power get a turbo</TD></TR></TABLE>
i feel the same way...if you dont know yet you will eventually find out that turbo is very reliable depending on how you maintain your car and how well it is tuned. i say majority of the people getting into the scene have this misconseption that turbo = blown motors.
truth is, you dont see many blown turbo motors until you get serious and crazy with it.
like someone has said ealier, you can spend about 1K on I/H/E and only get what?
10whp ROUGHLY? (just a guess)
why not just save up, maybe about 3K, and get a turbo kit(drag, revhard, greddy are the more popular ones around that price range), run minimal boost at about 7-8 psi, make roughly 230 whp (depending on the turbo size ect ect) and eat all motor LS' all day.
i feel the same way...if you dont know yet you will eventually find out that turbo is very reliable depending on how you maintain your car and how well it is tuned. i say majority of the people getting into the scene have this misconseption that turbo = blown motors.
truth is, you dont see many blown turbo motors until you get serious and crazy with it.
like someone has said ealier, you can spend about 1K on I/H/E and only get what?
10whp ROUGHLY? (just a guess)
why not just save up, maybe about 3K, and get a turbo kit(drag, revhard, greddy are the more popular ones around that price range), run minimal boost at about 7-8 psi, make roughly 230 whp (depending on the turbo size ect ect) and eat all motor LS' all day.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pity the supercharger doesn't fall into the category of "all motor."
Realistically, a properly built LS/V isn't out of the questions along with a few bolt-on's to liven it up a bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why I was saying it would be good to think about HP per $.
Let's say you could do I/H/E and vtec head for under $2,000... How much less HP do you think you'd have than the same car with just a JRSC? (We don't even need to talk about torque...)
I'd say the best bet would be jrsc or greddy turbo in CA with CARB restrictions...
Realistically, a properly built LS/V isn't out of the questions along with a few bolt-on's to liven it up a bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why I was saying it would be good to think about HP per $.
Let's say you could do I/H/E and vtec head for under $2,000... How much less HP do you think you'd have than the same car with just a JRSC? (We don't even need to talk about torque...)
I'd say the best bet would be jrsc or greddy turbo in CA with CARB restrictions...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -iLLuZioN-B18C1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">truth is, you dont see many blown turbo motors</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not in a bad way anyways...
Not in a bad way anyways...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jasonw »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's why I was saying it would be good to think about HP per $.
Let's say you could do I/H/E and vtec head for under $2,000... How much less HP do you think you'd have than the same car with just a JRSC? (We don't even need to talk about torque...)
I'd say the best bet would be jrsc or greddy turbo in CA with CARB restrictions...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You make a very good point regarding CARB legality, however the biggest horsepower number isn't always what everyone is trying to achieve. An all motor car offers a level of driver feedback and response that no boosted car can (not even those with Roots-type blowers), and in many RR/AX situations, as well as many real world situations, that can be a blessing many times over what a dyno sheet with a big number can offer.
That's why I was saying it would be good to think about HP per $.
Let's say you could do I/H/E and vtec head for under $2,000... How much less HP do you think you'd have than the same car with just a JRSC? (We don't even need to talk about torque...)
I'd say the best bet would be jrsc or greddy turbo in CA with CARB restrictions...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You make a very good point regarding CARB legality, however the biggest horsepower number isn't always what everyone is trying to achieve. An all motor car offers a level of driver feedback and response that no boosted car can (not even those with Roots-type blowers), and in many RR/AX situations, as well as many real world situations, that can be a blessing many times over what a dyno sheet with a big number can offer.
The jrsc is supposed to be lag-free and ideal for auto-x...
I know that n/a HP > f/i HP but, if cost is any concern, (F/I HP)/$ (MUCH)> (N/A HP)/$
And building an N/A LS is a real uphill battle with very little gratification compared to other motors.
My whole point was that I/H/E, while costing over $1,000, is just the very beginning of a N/A buildup and people should keep that in mind and budget their total cash outlay and have realistic expectations on the results.
I know that n/a HP > f/i HP but, if cost is any concern, (F/I HP)/$ (MUCH)> (N/A HP)/$
And building an N/A LS is a real uphill battle with very little gratification compared to other motors.
My whole point was that I/H/E, while costing over $1,000, is just the very beginning of a N/A buildup and people should keep that in mind and budget their total cash outlay and have realistic expectations on the results.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jasonw »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My whole point was that I/H/E, while costing over $1,000, is just the very beginning of a N/A buildup and people should keep that in mind and budget their total cash outlay and have realistic expectations on the results.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I understand your point completely, however I do disagree with some of your reasoning. $1000 as an initial all motor investment is a bit off. a JDM DC header or JDM OEM header won't cost more than $400. A good muffler shop can bend up a great sounding exhaust that flows wonderfully for under $300. An intake functionally identical to an AEM can be had off of ebay for $50, or better yet: mill the head down a bit and remove the top headgasket layer for some compression and toss in a bit of porting, throw on a set of GSXR 1000 ITB's, a set of Crower 402's and a Crome tuned open-loop P30 and you've got a sub-$2500 all motor LS beast.
At this point we could go on arguing for hours, but I don't have that much time. When Adam comes back on here he'll have a couple of informed opinions and that's what we were trying to accomplish in the first place.
I understand your point completely, however I do disagree with some of your reasoning. $1000 as an initial all motor investment is a bit off. a JDM DC header or JDM OEM header won't cost more than $400. A good muffler shop can bend up a great sounding exhaust that flows wonderfully for under $300. An intake functionally identical to an AEM can be had off of ebay for $50, or better yet: mill the head down a bit and remove the top headgasket layer for some compression and toss in a bit of porting, throw on a set of GSXR 1000 ITB's, a set of Crower 402's and a Crome tuned open-loop P30 and you've got a sub-$2500 all motor LS beast.
At this point we could go on arguing for hours, but I don't have that much time. When Adam comes back on here he'll have a couple of informed opinions and that's what we were trying to accomplish in the first place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -iLLuZioN-B18C1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i say majority of the people getting into the scene have this misconseption that turbo = blown motors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the only fear of getting a turbo. For the longest time, I was thinking about going boost, but then I keep on hearing about people blowing there engines from too much boost, and n/a's more reliable.
But then again, if it can be maintained and kept alive, maybe i will lean toward this direction again.
Thanks everyone for your help, you guys rock!
That's the only fear of getting a turbo. For the longest time, I was thinking about going boost, but then I keep on hearing about people blowing there engines from too much boost, and n/a's more reliable.
But then again, if it can be maintained and kept alive, maybe i will lean toward this direction again.
Thanks everyone for your help, you guys rock!
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