i baught a skunk 2 setup, but whithout valves, basicly its the camshafts, retainers, and valvesprings.


My main concern, is do i need valves, if i do, witch valves do i need, im not sure because the shop i baught the stuff from told me that i dont, and the place im installing it at told me i do,

2nd, im doing replacment sleeves by darton, but i wanted to know, if the pistons from a type s h22a (frm)would work in iron ducted sleeves. and i also wanted to know about reliability for these sleeves, im not gonna EVER push more more that 245whp, and im gonna do alot of km, i do 40,000 a year, lol. DAYLY DRIVER, SOON TO BE WEEKEND DRIVER.

i heared theres a chance that the sleeves could sink, and it could blow the motor, should i make sure this is garanteed by the installer.
and if the type s pistons dont work, should i use forged pistons. , and whats a reliable high compression setup, thx for all the hlp

btw: current setup h22a4 with f23 vtec lower crank, and rods, type s pistons, and port and polish, and some little additional head work, thx again............... gotta love ALL MOTOR

 

To answer ur valve question, it is ur choice to change valves or not. Since ur aren't going past 245 whp. I'd rather have valves bend(stock) than snap(aftermarket).

 

so are you basicly saying that stock is better than aftermarket?

cuz thats exactly what the wholeseller told me that i baught the kit from. btw, thx for the responce

 

Stock aren't better then Skunk 2 valves that's for sure.

Stock is usually the easiest/cheapest one to do. They are good, but they aren't the best.

Try replacing it with new stock valves. Technically you are replacing them, but with the stock honda. You are guaranteed a good valve.

 

yeah, i am gonna be running stock intake valves and supertech exhaust valves. I've never heard of anyone bending an intake valve, its always been an exhaust valve. But stock valves should handle 200 whp, but not if your gonna run above redline.

 

so maybe i should leave the intake valves and only do exhaust valves,
seems like i would save some cash, and since im staying the same size, and not ovesizing, i dont see why not,

cuz from my understanding, valves brake cuz of heat, and exhaust would i guesse have more heat, right?

 

Yeah, technically. Thats just gonna be my setup tho. Others may tell you to get other things. But alot of people dont even know that you dont have to have retainers if you are only going to the stock rev limit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtlmotorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so maybe i should leave the intake valves and only do exhaust valves,
seems like i would save some cash, and since im staying the same size, and not ovesizing, i dont see why not,

cuz from my understanding, valves brake cuz of heat, and exhaust would i guesse have more heat, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Valves can also get fucked by overrevving. I think the timing of everything (intake is open while piston is going down, exhaust is open while piston is going up) makes exhaust valves more susceptible to bending/breaking.

 

Well just for my 2 cents - SKUNK2 is the way to go - also, get some titanium valves or whatever - they're cheap and it can't hurt you. DO NOT GET oversized valves though. &lt;--not good. but i think you're on the right track with the valvetrain setup. Most people don't change their valvetrian at all - they just boost! thats not good at all. Remember - always have to have some sort of insurance for your vehicle. Especially if you're taking it on the road a lot.

 

whats the point of the sleeves if you are useing type S pistons?

 

the purpose of aftermarket valve is generally strength and weight saving, you can't just say 'aftermarket snap' etc because there is an infinite possible combinations/allloys of the valve metal that is used, these can be from malleable to brittle.

In a general view lightweight aftermarket valves reduce the risk of valve float (along with higher tension springs) and generally flow better than stock valves due to the design of the valve stem-&gt;valve head.

And to clarify upon 'Xthephil's opinion, Overrevving causes valve to be bent not because of the exhaust stroke/4stroke configuration; that has ZERO relevance. They bend because the engine is spinning so fast the when the cam lobe comes round and presses the rocker arm down onto the retainer/valve&spring, the stock valve springs does not have adeqate pressure (spring tension) to close the valve in time before the piston returns to TDC and so the piston catches on the valve.

Also oversized valve will work fine if done correctly, the limitations are in the cam timing since most of the VTEC engines use a penthouse roof, therefor clearences are reduced and if inproperly timed 'valve kiss' will occur, where intake/exhaust valves touch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> whats the point of the sleeves if you are useing type S pistons? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good question, i'm interested to know too. I would assume its to make a little bit more of a durable surface.

 

no point in paying out for sleeving when your only using type-S pistons. Just make sure you've got a new set of rings for them.
Afterall its the rings that wear not the cylinder walls, the bore/hone process on the cylinder walls is used so that a thin film of oil is left underneath the piston's oil rings on the cylinder wall in order to lubricate the pistons moving up and down the cylinders.

Although the FRM factory sleeves do wear, this is an irrelevantly slow wear rate compared against the wear rate of a set of OEM piston rings.

All in all it would be a waste of money IMHO to spend money on sleeving when your using Type-S pistons.

 

I agree with the last post that sleeving and using type-s pistons is a total wasted of money. I just honed my cylinders when I replaced my stock pistons with type s pistons. I've been runing for 3 yrs now after the rebuild and everything runs excellent. If your resleeving I'd go with an 89mm piston and high compression if u wanna even think passing the 220whp mark. Its not as easy as u think to get to 245whp, if that is indeed your goal. Good luck with your build

 

96SR-V, have you seen the parts Jeff at IMPORTBUILDERS.COM &lt;-clicky) sell? The guy has spent years developing his own piston range, he has his own dyno and got to see what makes power. He'll build & tune you a 250+whp Prelude motor no problem, I think the best they got was like 26Xwhp!

The way I see it when you have proven parts/setup that have been repeated time and time again, then its only down to choosing the PROVEN parts and getting a quality tune. checkout that link. You'll be surprised!