Alright-

I rebuilt my B18C1 and put it back in the car recently.

First off, I start the car up. And the Oil light was flickering at idle. I thought it was the sensor or electrical issue.

So What I did was hook up a guage from the parts store. Not a great brand or anything but i was hopeing to eliminate the pressure issue.

It says 0 psi at idle. Like 40-45 at full throttle.

I did reuse one gasket and it was the pickup gasket. I put a new one on today, and put the oil back in, and its No better. Same ****.

Today I go to drive it arround, I deside to take it to WOT. the guage will SOMETIMES rise up to say 60 or so, and spike back down to 50.

What in the **** is going on here!

Heres what was done to the engine:

B18C1 Bored .010 over

Eagle Rods
SRP pistons 9:1
Blockguard
Balanced and Micropolished Crank
New Acura Oil pump
ACL Bearings

Running Mobil Petrol. 5w 30

I took the line off that the guage runs on. Oil barely is pooring out with the engien running.

Help me figure whats wrong.

 

I would suggest NOT running it until you can narrow down the problem. Your only hurting the motor. When they bored the block. did they clean it up? or perhaps could there be metal chips that were still in there and blocked a passageway? Are you sure the oil pump is functioning properly? installed correctly? Id start to take at least the oil pan off and see what you find.

 

Took OIL PAN off and replaced pickup gasket.

Put thicker oil in (20w-50) to see if that did anything to boost pressure, It didnt help one bit.

I really am starting to think its that damn oil pump.

Putting 20w-50 in isnt a good thing to really run on, but it would have told me if the bearings were loose by boosting pressure atleast some, due to the thicker oil not running out of the clearances correct?

Someone shed some light. What can I do to check this pump

 

the only thing you can do is check the inner to outer rotor radial clearance on the pump rotor. standard new is .002-.006. service limit is .008.

did you try to spin the pump rotor while it was on the car? to make sure it spun freely? might wanna try that before you take it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cjohnson_2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only thing you can do is check the inner to outer rotor radial clearance on the pump rotor. standard new is .002-.006. service limit is .008.

did you try to spin the pump rotor while it was on the car? to make sure it spun freely? might wanna try that before you take it off. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought that It might not be sealing good or something not building sufficient pressure.

I do still have my old pump which was Known good at the time i took it out.

Should I try putting the old on on and seeing the results? If this helps some if at all return that new oil pump and get another.

What is my next thing from here. The Oil pump Pickup is sealed, Im pretty sure theres no clogged passages,

I dont see how if the bearings are too loose and Therefore loosing pressure, but no knocking like as mentioned before if i put a much thicker oil in, it helped absolutely none.

So Should I try the pump, and if that doesnt yield results, Where do i go from there.

 

Did you change the oil filter? A lot of times, the assembly lube can plug up the oil filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you change the oil filter? A lot of times, the assembly lube can plug up the oil filter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Didnt do that, but damn.... i didnt use that Much I wouldnt think.

Just a coating on all the bearings.

I have the guage hooked to that sending unit spot right over there by the oil pump.Right off that main galary right as its coming out of the oil pump.

Thats before It even goes to the oil filter... So the guage is basically reading what the pump is putting out.

 

Did you plastigauge and check your bearing clearances when you were building your motor? Also, do you know if your head is getting oil? Like can you look in the oil fill hole and see oil shooting out the oil ports? There definately seems to be coming wrong because 0 psi at idle = very bad. Something sounds like it isn't working right, like the oil pump, or you have some old gasket stuck in a oil gally. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Hick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you plastigauge and check your bearing clearances when you were building your motor? Also, do you know if your head is getting oil? Like can you look in the oil fill hole and see oil shooting out the oil ports? There definately seems to be coming wrong because 0 psi at idle = very bad. Something sounds like it isn't working right, like the oil pump, or you have some old gasket stuck in a oil gally. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the Head is getting oil, During initial start up/fast idle when it runs at like 1500rpm cold.

I left the cap off, and oil was shooting out.

Once it warms up and idle sits at 1000. 0 psi. Im putting my old gsr pump on this weekend. If that fixes it, I want a new oil pump.

BTW....
Does Honda warranty their new parts? I have a brand new oil pump on the engine.

 

I would also say to hold off on the WOT runs. What happened to a "break-in" period.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuskeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I would also say to hold off on the WOT runs. What happened to a "break-in" period. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand, completely.


Anyway, I have a continuation of my saga. Found here-

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1169498

Ive done everything listed above in this thread except recheck those ACL's. The thread is talking about that. so Guys come read that detailed info and help me.

 

Ok , I did do all the bearings. The motor is out of the car.

Heres What I have.

Main
1. .001
2. .001
3. .001
4. .001
5. .0015

Rod
1. .0015
2. .001
3. .001
4. .0015

What are the stock numers? These Look VERY good and tight. I I cant be loosing oil pressure here.

Help! Where do i look next?

 

those numbers look pretty good. #3 main is a little tight. i believe its suppose to be between .0012 and 2, but thats aweful close.

 

exactly, I mean I figured with all these combo parts i have That it was a little tight,

but you gotta figure itll wear some and be completely within tolerance and a long service life.

It doesnt seem like its too tight to be aproblem.

Expecially not an oil pressure problem.

What do I do next. I put my old oil pump on, and it didnt help. I honestly dont know if the old pump got fucked up from sitting outside for a few months or what. it turned freely.

I really would like to think my new oil pump from honda worked well, but i put the old one back on as a diagnostic tool. I took the allen plug off the bottom of the pump and the spring came out, but i had to kinda stick a small screw driver in there and free the slider to get it out.

I mean Is there any other thing in this world that could happen. I dont want to go back to acura and make an *** of my self, if the origional pump worked fine all along. But Numbers dont lie.

Ive read helms. Ive taken the oil squirters off and inspected them. The only other option it really gives me is to inspect the oil pump.

On the oil Squirters.One is damaged i noticed it looked to be from when they worked on it to bore it out. The guy told me once that the machine went a little too far, and i see a scar on the bottom of the cylinder wall but not in it.

I did what helms told me to do, and that orphice is damaged, it wont let the 1.2MM diamater pin go in. So ill order a new one. I dont think that a kinked/bent passage for the oil squirter is the cuplpret here howver. it just wouldnt poor oil out.

Any Ideas for a completely dumbfounded tuner?