Ok Im geting #10 code and #6 code.

Blinks 6times stops then blinks 10 times. What does this mean? I been working on this POS for 3 months and still cant get it runing.
Im losing it over this damn car.

Any help is welcome.

Thanks.

 

#6 is coolant temperature and #10 is intake air temperature.

 

Would that keep it from runing? Im tryin to do a mpfi swap and now its throwing that code. The car want even start.

I have done the swap before with no probs. I do it to my car and somthing goes wrong.

 

Hehe, thats the way it goes for me too.

Try getting rid of the codes and going from there. Thats always the best place to start because there is obviously something wrong if you have a CEL, wether it is major or not.

 

dude...convert it to obd1.....i had nothing but probs also...i converted to obd1 and been running for 2 months trouble free

 

If he has problems from an MPFI swap, I would figure them out before doing anything else, especially goint to OBD1.

 

Well I reset everything. Went back and fixed a few things.

Now Im geting #4 and #10. The acted like it was going to start but didnt.
Is there a online sorce yall are geting these codes from? All I could find was b16 etc codes.

 

bump

Im back.

Got a new ecu(pm6) new dizzy and cap. All new wires. Went back and redid all my wiring. Still wont start. Giving Code 10 (intake air temp) anyone had this prob? Any help is welcome.

 

I don't think code 10 (IAT) would keep it from starting. Code 6 (TW/Coolant Temp. Sensor) on the other hand would make it very hard to start/sometimes impossible. That's what's going on with my car right now, too. It used to start after like 4 or 5 tries but now I think it's flooded since code 6 makes it run extremely rich to be on the safe side.

Take out the coolant temp. sensor (under the distributor, 2 pin plug) and hold it in some boiling water and check the resistance between the 2 terminals. If it's between 200-400 Ohms, the sensor shouldn't be your problem (resistance decreases as temp. increases). Then check to see if you get ~5V from the red/wht wire and ground, then check to see if there's ~5V between the 2 terminals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dibble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I reset everything. Went back and fixed a few things.

Now Im geting #4 and #10. The acted like it was going to start but didnt.
Is there a online sorce yall are geting these codes from? All I could find was b16 etc codes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Fix the #4 and make sure you have the right wires going to the IAT.

 

Code 10 is the only code Im geting.

I think It might be the fuel pump. It set up for a few months. I will test it all tomarrow.

 

Code 10 related to the fuel pump? How do you come to that conclusion? - just curious.

Code 10 is in result to the IAT.
It's a small white sensor that checks the temperature of the air going in through the intake manifold. It has nothing to do with the fuel system. The car will run with it disconnected, but won't run nicey.

CHECK YOUR WIRING!!!!!

 

I had that same problem!! I thought code 10 iat wasn't at all linked to the car not starting, but I finally got all my wiring right and it started right up. Your dizzy wiring is not matching the dx harness. Also, check your new wires coming from the ecu plugs Very important. I had the orange/red stipes instead of the orange at x plug, and that was the CNK sensor!!

So, the best advice, go over your wiring, label, have some with you, whatever, its hard but imperative.