ok I just filled up with premium gas and 2 miles later on the way home my car's tach starts to act weird and car is acting like it dosent have a lot of power. Its missing a bit and is very jerky while accelrating. So i turn to go up my big hill where I live and it dosent make it 10 feet (acting like its powerless). I changed the spark plugs (ngk), cap, and rotor button a week ago. I pulled out the plugs tonight and they had a black ring around them and looked white and ashy on the tip. I replaced them. Car still wont start just turns over and over. Also changed the oil previously today but thats my job so I know nothing funny happened then. What could be my problem? ECU isnt throwing any codes at all but blinks one time when turned to accesorry like it should. this is in my 91 crx si. Do you guys think I got bad gas that wont even allow the car to start?

 

maybe u put diesel
check ur dizzy rotor maybe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sit220 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe u put diesel
check ur dizzy rotor maybe </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. yeah but its probably the screw that holds the rotor on loosened up. they are known for doing that.

 

are you getting spark/fuel ?

 

rotor button screw possibly backed out. My friend had that happen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-Mo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rotor button screw possibly backed out. My friend had that happen.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Happened to me a couple weeks ago when I didnt even have a screwdriver with me.

 

check your fuel pressure, the pump might be going out?

 

check the Ignitor.
My freinds HB seems to go threw 1 of these every 2months.(I don't know why).

 

tried the trick with the screwdriver in each plug wires and none are getting spark. Does this mean a new dizzy for me?

 

well check the individal components of the dizzy b4 you throw down on a whole one.

did you check the rotor like ppl recommended?

ignitor?

 

yes the cap and rotor have been replaced and re-replaced with the old one just to see if the new parts were bad. how much does an ignitor cost? Also since i never have really messed with my dizzy before can I use one from a d15b2 on my d16a6 motor?

 

maybe the fuel isn't catching fire?
regular unleaded is recommended for your non-vtec si.
do you always run premium?
higher octane is actually tougher to light off, if i am not mistaken, and you did say that it started acting funny after you <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crexer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> just filled up with premium gas and 2 miles later</TD></TR></TABLE>
if your engine isn't making enough compression then the high octane fuel may not burn.
i have read that it is not good for a stock-compression engine to run fuel of higher octane than recommended by the manufacturer...

 

Ensure good compression. Are you burning coolant? Excessive burning coolant (white smoke) and no power is almost guaranteed a head gasket problem. Another thing: while you're trying to start the car, use a solid piece of metal and hold it to the injectors and listen for a click. The metal will act like a stethescope and you should hear the injectors clicking open and closed if you put your ear to the top of the metal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol. yeah but its probably the screw that holds the rotor on loosened up. they are known for doing that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol u know how many times that has happened to me and how many times a EF came in my school with a "no start" condision about 60 so far

 

the d16a6 has its own distributor, none of the other EF distributors will work. it may be possible to slip an obd-0 LS distributor in there and catch one bolt to test. ive seen Si dist's in LS's before but never other way around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the d16a6 has its own distributor, none of the other EF distributors will work. it may be possible to slip an obd-0 LS distributor in there and catch one bolt to test. ive seen Si dist's in LS's before but never other way around. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can use the distributor off of an HF if you have it laying around

 

Problem fixed. It was the ignitor. I first replaced the coil pack ( i guess thats what its called). That didnt do it. Traded that back for an ignitor (small computer chip looking thing) for 80 dollars at auto zone with a lifetime warrranty and that did the trick. Does anyone else find it stranged that the ignitor went bad after a cap and rotor install and also new plugs?

 

The ignitor from a d15 will work on a D16 or even in a b16..

If your old ignitor says "OKI" on it,they were recalled..
I have had two of them fail on me..

Having old ignition parts
can stress the ignitor and lead to its failure also.

 

i personally believe its the heat from the distributor conducting through the dist shaft and mounting base. ive never cut open an ignitor, but ive never known delicate eletrical connections to enjoy hundreds of cycles of expansion and contraction. just a guess really.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91’ LS-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the Ignitor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crexer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Problem fixed. It was the ignitor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

:napolian: yessssss.