Hey guys, I am buying a 94 EX civic with the SOHC VTEC motor. As you can tell im not big in to Honda's and im still doing some searching. I can buy another motor off my buddy to do a rebuild for 9:1 pistons and also put in some eagle rods so I can boost this motor. I was looking at a Drag turbo kit that comes with a T3T4 I belive. What else should I do besides just slap a turbo kit on? How do you guys feel about the VAFC? Ive got ALOT fo questions to ask and alot more things to look up. What can i exspect to see on the dyno with a Drag turbo kit compared to a GReddy turbo kit. What PSI does the SOHC 1.6l vtec hold up to safely?

sorry for all the misc questions.


Jason

 

well with the right fuel managment ive seen 302whp on stock internals. Do some research and look up user Boosteded9. That was his car ran like 11's. And he posted up his seyup for everyone to see and follow.

 

You're going to want to get valve springs and retainers, forged rods and pistons, an intercooler, a cosmetic headgasket, and depending on your boost, a turbo cam and knife edged crank. Also, I'd suggest Uberdata or Hondata for your engine management, it may cost a lot more than a VAFC or FMU, but you'll be happy you did in the end. Then you'll need some oil lines, missing link, etc; do you plan on putting this swap together yourself, or having a shop do it? I'd suggest you get an experienced tuner to take care of it if you're not highly experienced and you don't want to throw down thousands more in costly repairs. Also, I'd recommend the 96-00 EX transmission (s40) with an LSD, otherwise you're going to be paying hundreds in transmission repairs in the near future. However, I'm assuming you're going for 350-400 WHP.

 

I am looking for 300whp

My buddy who builds alot of sohc motors for people around here is doing one for me as well. He is putting all new Honda maint and rod bearings in, Eagle H beam Rods,Ares 9:1 stock bore pistons and ARP bolts ect ect. I am also having the machine shop wile its out and before it goes together hone the cyld walls and ad valve springs and retainers and I plan on going with Hondata with 550cc injectors. I am also planning on using the Drag turbo kit with the t3t4 turbo.

What can I exspect with this set up?

 

You dont have to build them up. With an almost completely stock engine you can run 13's or even 12's if you do it right.

Here are the three most important facts with turbo d-series motors

1> Your head gasket will pop.

Get arp head studs with an oem head gasket and you should be okay there.

2> Fuel managment is everything.

Get some good injectors and go get it tuned. Junk any of those piggyback systems your kit comes with. They will just get you to your tuner without blowing up. If you want to tune it yourself Uberdata is the way to go.

3> Keep the boost under 12psi

You can run 10psi safely all day if its tuned and 12 at the track on a stock d series motor.

The whole point of the d-series motors are they are cheap. If you plan on building up a motor go pick up an LS motor. They are almost as cheap and will make very high HP boosted plus you have more choices with trannies and they are stronger. If you just want a really quick car that will put out some nice numbers then slap a turbo on a stock d-series and go get it tuned up.

Just my thoughts on things. I never really got the idea of building up the d-series.

 

i think 550's would be a overkill for the amount of boost. You will be fine with set of 440cc injectors. or if your on a budget u can get some DSM 450's and add the resistor box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason300zxTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, I am buying a 94 EX civic with the SOHC VTEC motor. As you can tell im not big in to Honda's and im still doing some searching. I can buy another motor off my buddy to do a rebuild for 9:1 pistons and also put in some eagle rods so I can boost this motor. I was looking at a Drag turbo kit that comes with a T3T4 I belive. What else should I do besides just slap a turbo kit on? How do you guys feel about the VAFC? Ive got ALOT fo questions to ask and alot more things to look up. What can i exspect to see on the dyno with a Drag turbo kit compared to a GReddy turbo kit. What PSI does the SOHC 1.6l vtec hold up to safely?

sorry for all the misc questions.


Jason </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dont go with that crappy kit go for quality. Check out the Full-Race kits http://www.full-race.com. Also for tuning dont use a VAFC as all that does is Mess with Vtec and Fuel Settings, Get Hondata or Uberdata and maximize your tuning by messing with the timing and fuel tables at the same time.

 

I Dont see a kit from them???


whats wrong with the drag kit?

 

Check out turbod16.com

I'd personally start looking into pieceing together your own kit, that'll be the best bang for the buck and get you the power your looking for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason300zxTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I Dont see a kit from them???


whats wrong with the drag kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well its a boring put together kit. By going with a custom Manfiold mated to a better turbine you'd push serious number with that D series motor. Thats all that i was trying to get out. The Drag manfiold are cast worthless POS.

 

any more people got idea's?

 

[QUOTE=Jason300zxTT]What can i exspect to see on the dyno with a Drag turbo kit compared to a GReddy turbo kit.QUOTE]

what you see on a dyno depends on where you live (atmospheric pressure)

but 7 psi from a turbo is 7 psi

 

I plan on running more then that. I will have a pretty set up motor with Ares 9:1 pistons and eagle H beam rods with arp head bolts. I want to run 12-15psi on 550cc injectors on the drag gen 3 kit with the t3t4.

 

ok.

your build up seems to be very well constructed and planned, at least for the motor. many people hate on the drag kit, as it is not the best kit out there by any means. however, this does not mean that it wont work well. i personally have pieced together 2 kits from random used ****, but a prefabbed kit isnt the worst out there. here's some pointers i have for you

1-if you get a drag kit, switch out your deltagate wastegate for a tial or other brand. deltagates are notorious for creep and spike.

2-300whp is a very achieveable goal. what size t3/t4 does it come with? i think a t3/t4 50 trim with .48 a/r turbine would be a very nice turbo for the sohc vtec. i had a t3 50 trim .60/.48 and i should have gone bigger

3-if you are going to do up the head with valvesprings and retainers, then look toward the zex stage 2 or crower st 2 turbo cams.

4- keep it under 350ish whp on the stock sleeves.

5- 550's are fine. 450's will start getting close to 100% duty cycle at right around 300whp i believe, and the 550s just give you a little more room to expand later on.

6-hondata is good. if you have decent knowledge of forced induction and motor mechanics and **** like that, then i recommend using a rom program such as uberdata or perhaps crome. you will save hundreds over hondata if you do this. you have to tune it well no matter what management route you take

you should also have a nice solid clutch in there too. i think the act xtss setup will do you nicely. good luck with it man

 

good luck...one boosted SOHC to another...from NOVA as well...

 

The manifold on that kit is worthless and will cause more problems than it is worth. They just do tack welds on it instead of actually welding it all the way around. Cast iron manifolds are useless if you want something that will last.

 

So your saying a stock bottom end can withstand 12 psi at the track?? I've taken the bottom end apart on a d16y8 and those rods look like toothpicks. I almost had questions of people telling me 8psi would be more than enough on stock internals, but from what you are all saying is that I could safely drive around town with 10psi? I mean 8psi to me seems quick to me, but how much more power are we talkin with that extra 2 psi??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCex20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your saying a stock bottom end can withstand 12 psi at the track?? I've taken the bottom end apart on a d16y8 and those rods look like toothpicks. I almost had questions of people telling me 8psi would be more than enough on stock internals, but from what you are all saying is that I could safely drive around town with 10psi? I mean 8psi to me seems quick to me, but how much more power are we talkin with that extra 2 psi?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont be concerned with psi. There ARE different sized turbos. Be concerned with hp. Anywhere from 225-240 those rods will lose it.(appoximatley)

 

http://www.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=1391

check out that link ... Thats the info on my built SOHC d16 turbo ... very conservative tune ... and the questions about more power (up to 400 on pump) are answered there as well.

 

I have the Greddy kit for the 96-00, JRIC, Emanage, etc. The only question I have is if I would be safe running 10psi, without worrying about detonation. I thought about water injection, but I figured I would just keep it around 8psi. What are your thoughts?

 

Check out the Edelbrock kit. It comes complete with everything that you need and is not a bad kit for the first timer. If you are wanting to spend a decent amount of money, then piece together your own kit. The guys on here that say it is cheaper to piece together your own turbo kit are talking about going to the junkyard and finding used ****. Sounds to me like you are not the type of person who would do this, but hey, welcome to the honda world.

As with everything else on any other car, spend more money to go fast and even more money to be reliable.

I think if you did some more research on this site, turbod16.com, and others, you would have a better understanding of which route you would like to take.

 

Now let me say some **** here ...

With a D16 motor, in order to be safe on stock internals, you stay under 200WHP for reliability (And don't say that with good tune it can make more). The highest you make is just over 200WHP, but I would stay under to make sure it's reliable !

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec1995 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well with the right fuel managment ive seen 302whp on stock internals. Do some research and look up user Boosteded9. That was his car ran like 11's. And he posted up his seyup for everyone to see and follow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

for that I'm wandering how lond time after you saw that engine it worked ... like a week before it fucked up something ... Even B16 with stock internals at that power isn't reliable, think about that

And I mean only with STOCK INTERNALS .....

Also, psi doesn't matter, WHP and WTQ do

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miro_gt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now let me say some **** here ...

With a D16 motor, in order to be safe on stock internals, you stay under 200WHP for reliability (And don't say that with good tune it can make more). The highest you make is just over 200WHP, but I would stay under to make sure it's reliable !

for that I'm wandering how lond time after you saw that engine it worked ... like a week before it fucked up something ... Even B16 with stock internals at that power isn't reliable, think about that

And I mean only with STOCK INTERNALS .....

Also, psi doesn't matter, WHP and WTQ do</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your an idiot. Check out Beerbongskickass. He's been runing 230whp on a stock d16 for over a year now.

Theres a ton of people running around or over 200whp on d16's with stock internals.

 

hahaha beerbongs has a freak motor .


no honestly i think he might have close to the record for stock block longevity to power, especially since he said he drives the **** out of it regularly. now just cause one person does it, doesnt mean that its safe. ive seen d's break at 200 or less. beerbongs car is a partial testament to how important a good tune is.

 

i pieced together a kit, and i am running a used drag cast manifold i got really cheap. there really isnt anything wrong with the manifold, except the wastegate placement. that is the main reason you get boost creep. if you keep it under 10 psi, you really wont have any issues with it. i havent had a single problem. it must flow well, because i made 185 whp and 155 wtq using this manifold, a .42/.48 turbo, and a simple well made piping setup at only 6.5 psi. i consider this a high number for 6.5 psi. and to the guy who was talking about the "welds" on a drag manifold only being tacked, WTF are you talking about? its a CAST IRON MANIFOLD, and there ARE NO WELDS. i plan on keeping this manifold for a long time, and running over 275 whp on it when my bottom end build is completed later this year. its tough, simple, and packages a T3 turbo fairly nicely in an EF chassis.

as said many times before, ARP head studs are key, for keeping headgasket issues minimal.

fuel managment is even more important. run a good system, and i'd go with 550's. they are NOT overkill.