Alright, so before i had decided to use a T3 turbo, i purchased a T25/28 manifold. ( i know i'm an idiot.) Either way, i'm stuck with it so i must make the best with what i have. I've realized that I have a few options:
- First off, I can have an adapter plate made. Garrett T25 --> T3 pattern. However, as another member pointed out, the manifold will flow like **** do to the porting differences.

- I can have the manifold professionally modified by a machine shop. This would hopefully include the following: Having the manifold holes filled, re-tapped at the proper specs., and ported. (this option seems the most logical, however, i'm on a tight budget and would love to try and do this on my own. Time is also of the essence.)

- Last but not least, what i'm currently leanding towars. I'm thinking i can actually grind out, or drill a wider hole where the current one exists. The holes I'm speaking of are the mounting holes on the exhaust housing on the T3 turbo. They aren't that far off from the holes on the manifold. Let me show you in some pictures.

 

why are you stuck with it? can't sell it for a t3 mani? tell you what I have one from a drag 3 kit I'll sell you for like $150... I don't see why you can't get rid of that one for about that much?

 

Yeah i'd sell the mani and just buy a new one for your t3.

 

If your manifold is steel, you can also buy a t3 plate, cut of the t25 plate and weld the t3 in it's place.

 

this mani. is for a D series, and is A/C compatible.

 

maybe a dumb question, but are you <U>sure</U> that the mani you have...modified for a T3 will still clear the A/C?

 

theoretically, it should. The manifold has the turbo flange off to the left, and angled. If the flange from the T3 is modified, it should still hold the same position, as long as it is centered off of the manifold flange. Of course, i am NOT speaking out of experience. This is just what common sense leads me to believe. I think it should be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turtle-eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your manifold is steel, you can also buy a t3 plate, cut of the t25 plate and weld the t3 in it's place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

the manifold is cast

 

IMO....I'd save up for another mani. I would hate to here that your exhaust housing cracked on your turbo and now your forking out more money for that.

 

cut and weld./

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0ptimus Prime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
. Let me show you in some pictures.



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i tried this and actually ran it for awhile and even made a custom external wastegate pipe coming from the downpipe haha....this was my first put together turbokit, got the hks t25 manifold for free, got the t3 60/48 for $100 so yeah it was a cheap kit. but it worked. although it was a pain in the *** trying to keep that manifold and turbo bolted up completely with no leaks.

 

WTF is that in the pic above? is that a wastegate in the downpipe?

 

forgive me for being an ***, but i really dont see how a wastegate on the exhaust would help control boost to ANY degree?

someone enlighten me please

 

haha, it worked. and I've seen a volkswagon turbo kit that did the same. but theres some post about it from awhile back that i read and yeah some said you couldn't do it and some said you could. it worked fine for me haha

also, think of it this way. If on an internally wastegated turbo, the actuator/internal wastegate is mounted on the turbo after the manifold, so why can't an external one be done the same? because that's pretty much what was done there. that tial wastegate is being run off the small hole on the turbine normally used for an actuator flapper.

 

If i remember correctly the internally gated stuff is after the manifold but it is before the turbine wheel..correct me if im wrong please

 

borrowed this picture from another thread to support my post...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reaction360 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> that tial wastegate is being run off the small hole on the turbine normally used for an actuator flapper. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It would work as long as you did it this way... it wouldn't work if the wastegate was actually placed after the turbine... if it's off the original hole used for the internal wastegate then it is technically before the turbine...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostingSnail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If i remember correctly the internally gated stuff is after the manifold but it is before the turbine wheel..correct me if im wrong please</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, that's correct... in order for a wastegate to work it has to bleed off exhaust before the exhaust hits the turbine blades...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, that's correct... in order for a wastegate to work it has to bleed off exhaust before the exhaust hits the turbine blades...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright I thought so...I thought someone up above was trying to regulate boost with the wastegate after the turbine with the wastegate mounted on the downpipe ..I made a misinterpretation

 

sorry if i wasn't clear in my first post. but yeah, the wastegate is ran off that small hole on the turbine. so yes, it is being regulated before the turbine. and when i said it was welded to the downpipe, what i meant is it was a seperate pipe welded parrallel to the downpipe but independant from the downpipe..... (did that just make any sense? haha sounds wierd) but you get the picture. i'd take a picture of it, but i think i thew it away haha.

 

This thread almost ranked up there with the nitrous nozzle install into the s2k valve cover and the civic nitrous nozzle install into the gas tank threads...

Thank god he redeemed himself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostingSnail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">borrowed this picture from another thread to support my post...

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I used that hole as a sensing point for my EGT probe. Drilled and threaded a hole through the DP flange and called it a day.

 

i guess that would work,, but ideally you want the EGT prove right outside the #2 or #3 cylinder, i forgot which one runs the leanest...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecAddict96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah i'd sell the mani and just buy a new one for your t3.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thank god he redeemed himself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

redeemed himself? just becasue it isnt the same cookie cutter setup that is posted on here every 6.4 hours doesnt make it any worse. infact it vents all 4 runners better than 75% of the manifolds on here. The only issue would be if the internal port wasnt hogged out to flow more.