Tried searching, found nothing..

Just curious what you guys did for this, as I realized over the weekend that I don't have one, but am supposed to.

 

Good question as I was looking as well! Anyone?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=876718
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=720528

 

Most I've seen are tee-d off of the fuel line between the factory fuel filter and the injector rail. A ball valve and a length of blind fuel line make the procedure fast and painless to use. Just stick the end of the fuel line into the tech inspector's vessel of choice, open the valve and key the ignition/fuel pump to fill the vessel. Tie wraps around the valve lever to assure it stays closed are popular as well.

 

ok, for whatever reason, searching for "fuel" didn't return those results.. ::

anyhow.. options look like as follows:

1) Using the test port with an adaptor and hose. Where can I get something to put in there?

2) Something from this fuelports.com place.. Is that really the same as #1?

3) Thawley's method of t-ing the fuel line with some sort of ball valve..

1 or 2 sound the best/easiest given the existence of my fuel test port already.. and I gotta change the filter anyhow.. So.. Is the easiest way just to get a fitting that replaces the banjo bolt from fuelports.com and a length of hose?

 

fuelports.com parts on all our cars, never a problem and it get's used almost every race

 

http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...AMPLE
http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=3275

Another method is to use a "solex" fitting on top of the factory Honda fuel filter. This will allow you to use -6 AN line to plumb in a T. The fitting on the factory rail can be removed and also replaced with one of the solex fittings.

If you get stuck call Pegasus and talk to Bob. He knows SCCA and he knows the ins and outs of Hondas.

 

I use this one:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=3447

Since I installed a fuel pressure gauge, I installed a Tee on top of the fuel filter banjo. The gauge went on top, and the valve on the tee. Done.

I just need to remember to carry a length of hose with me.

If you really want, I can try to shoot a couple pics.

 

there you go:

 

What size adaptor is the thread in the top of the fuel filter? I have a fuel pressure guage as well and it sounds like I would also need a T. Any idea on what adaptor I would need?

 

Parts from OPM.

 

I don't currently have a fuel pressure gauge, so I guess I'll just be going with an elbow or straight port kind of setup.. Where'd you get the t-fitting, or is that a pegasus purchase as well?

 

IIRC, I got the tee and a nipple at Lowes. It's standard NPT threads. The fuel pressure gauge should have come with a new banjo bolt (mine did anyway).

I took the gauge to Lowes and matched the threads using an all-female tee + a nipple to mount it in the banjo bolt.

I hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">using an all-female tee + a nipple</TD></TR></TABLE>

heehee

 

Zsolt - Where you tapped the SCCA port is on the return side of the pressure regulator, would this still have fuel in it after you shut the car off? My understanding was not to place it there.

 

Paul Morrison at fuelports.com is a really great guy, and the port is just as excellent. Not very expensive, either. Just replaces the bolt on top of the fuel filter banjo bolt. Basically, it's a tire stem-like valve that stays closed with a cap on it while not in use. When you need to use it, you take the cap off, and thread on a fitting that has a screw on the top that forces the tire stem-like valve open, and fuel runs through the hose...and it's long enough to go past the fender, so you're not spilling fuel in the engine bay. Works great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECAcuraGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Zsolt - Where you tapped the SCCA port is on the return side of the pressure regulator, would this still have fuel in it after you shut the car off? My understanding was not to place it there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Donno. Tom Fowler at OPM said put it there, so I did.

One upside I can see it being there is any air getting into the system from the install or from taking a sample will get pushed into the tank and out the normal ways not throught the injectors.

 

For the future researchers, here is what I did. It clears the hood and I can't see any negatives other than perhaps some additional weight on the fittings, but not very much!

 

That's what I have on the Miata, along with a length of tubing strapped to my cage in case I get asked for a pee test in impound.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there you go:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the lead Sebastian. I have the same B&M gauge and T-fitting but could not find a bleeder fitting like that locally to fit the 1/8 NPT hole so I temporarily plugged it. Looks like time to place the Pegasus order.

To those who do not have the B&M gauge on the fuel filter, I highly recommend it and it was cheap and easy. Just a simple glance and you know that you have pressure and no installation complications.

 

I'd be worried about that much mass hanging on those brass fittings, having seen more than a few fail just with oil pressure sending units poked into them. Particularly with pressurized fuel behind them it might be a good idea to run a line and mount the bulk of the hardware on a handy surface that doesn't vibrate like an engine does.

K


Modified by Knestis at 9:26 PM 3/27/2005

 

I "T'd" mine off the return line. On the low pressure side, I just put some hose on the "T" and capped it with a valve. Cost me about $5.00 in parts and works great. I wasn't too hip on messing with the high pressure side of the fuel system incase there was a leak. It does take longer to give a sample from the return side, but there isn't a time limit...

 

Kirk - the fuel filter is mounted to the firewall so it wouldn't be receiving a ton of shock from the motor. Perhaps some vibration, but would it be a problem? I hear what you are saying about the high pressure side and all... Hmmm...


Modified by VTECAcuraGSR at 7:10 PM 3/28/2005

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "shock" but vibration should be way less on the firewall than on the engine itself.

The failure mode of those fittings - we think - is a combination of overtightening (NPT fittings are tapered so they act as a wedge of sorts), and constant buzzing that promotes cracks. If the length and mass of the bleeder, gauge, and fittings set up a sympathetic harmonic with an engine rev point that the car sees a lot, it will literally vibrate itselt apart.

By running a line (with enough slack to allow for engine movement) to the firewall or fender, those parts aren't subjected to the buzzing.

K

 

Kirk, the fuel filter is not on the engine. It is mounted on the firewall already.