H22 cams reversible?
Well, heres teh deal, ive been trying to get a 92 prelude auto with an h22a swap started for the last two weeks. The customer brought it in after another shop built the bottom end and couldnt get it started. I got the injectors firing properly, which was a problem, and the timing is all lined up after rechecking a bajillion times. It still sounds like the motor is backfiring out the intake, but it does try to start.
Basically, is it possible to swap the intake and exhaust cams on an h22, its teh only thing left i can think of, but i do not want to tear it back down to check. If i could check, what are the markings on teh cams to differentiate between teh two. Thanx.
Basically, is it possible to swap the intake and exhaust cams on an h22, its teh only thing left i can think of, but i do not want to tear it back down to check. If i could check, what are the markings on teh cams to differentiate between teh two. Thanx.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y49crxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, heres teh deal, ive been trying to get a 92 prelude auto with an h22a swap started for the last two weeks. The customer brought it in after another shop built the bottom end and couldnt get it started. I got the injectors firing properly, which was a problem, and the timing is all lined up after rechecking a bajillion times. It still sounds like the motor is backfiring out the intake, but it does try to start.
Basically, is it possible to swap the intake and exhaust cams on an h22, its teh only thing left i can think of, but i do not want to tear it back down to check. If i could check, what are the markings on teh cams to differentiate between teh two. Thanx.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen where one cam was 180 out and bent all the exhaust vavles from repetive cranking. Also if its backfiring out of the intake and the timing is correct check the firing order. It could be something as simple as that. let me know what you find when you fix this I am courious to see whats wrong.
Basically, is it possible to swap the intake and exhaust cams on an h22, its teh only thing left i can think of, but i do not want to tear it back down to check. If i could check, what are the markings on teh cams to differentiate between teh two. Thanx.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen where one cam was 180 out and bent all the exhaust vavles from repetive cranking. Also if its backfiring out of the intake and the timing is correct check the firing order. It could be something as simple as that. let me know what you find when you fix this I am courious to see whats wrong.
6 different people have checked the firing order, so im pretty sure we got that figured out, lol. The cam gears are lined up to TDC, at the same time, so that would eliminate the one cam being 180 degrees off. Hmmmm, waiting for reply to last post.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y49crxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, is it possible to mount the flywheel on 180 degrees off so that when im lining up with the TDC mark its still actaully 180 degrees off?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your using the flywheel to set timing make sure your using the correct make to line up tdc. That is a common mistake made. The flywheel can only go on oneway because it has a dowel thats lines up on the crank. I would just pull the covers and set the timing that way to ensure everything is correct escpcially if its and after market flywheel they tend to have wrong makes on them.
If your using the flywheel to set timing make sure your using the correct make to line up tdc. That is a common mistake made. The flywheel can only go on oneway because it has a dowel thats lines up on the crank. I would just pull the covers and set the timing that way to ensure everything is correct escpcially if its and after market flywheel they tend to have wrong makes on them.
well, i lined it up to the mark that looks like a sideways T, its right below the white dash, and about an inch above the sideways W. Then the three marks, one red, are below that.
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it sounds like you are using the 15 degree BTDC mark as a TDC mark.
to double check, take out the number one spark plug and drop in a very long, narrow screw driver. When you turn the engine by hand, the screw driver should be at its highest point when the mark you are using is lined up with the arrow...
edit: the flywheel has these markings
- <---- 2 degrees advanced
- <---- target for stock timing @ 700 RPM (idle)
- <---- 2 degrees retarded
- <---- TDC
the distance between the 3 and the 1 is more exagerated in real life
to double check, take out the number one spark plug and drop in a very long, narrow screw driver. When you turn the engine by hand, the screw driver should be at its highest point when the mark you are using is lined up with the arrow...
edit: the flywheel has these markings
- <---- 2 degrees advanced
- <---- target for stock timing @ 700 RPM (idle)
- <---- 2 degrees retarded
- <---- TDC
the distance between the 3 and the 1 is more exagerated in real life
use a long socket extension rather then a screw driver. have someone with a flash light check when the dashes go around as you put her at TDC. at this point check the cam gears AGAIN and see how far off that little dash is.
This is what the flywheel markings look like,

Now, these same markings are on both sides of the flywheel, 180 degrees of each other. Is that right??? And both spots the #1 cylinder is at the top of its stroke.

Now, these same markings are on both sides of the flywheel, 180 degrees of each other. Is that right??? And both spots the #1 cylinder is at the top of its stroke.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it sounds like you are using the 15 degree BTDC mark as a TDC mark.
to double check, take out the number one spark plug and drop in a very long, narrow screw driver. When you turn the engine by hand, the screw driver should be at its highest point when the mark you are using is lined up with the arrow...
edit: the flywheel has these markings
- <---- 2 degrees advanced
- <---- target for stock timing @ 700 RPM (idle)
- <---- 2 degrees retarded
- <---- TDC
the distance between the 3 and the 1 is more exagerated in real life</TD></TR></TABLE>
to double check, take out the number one spark plug and drop in a very long, narrow screw driver. When you turn the engine by hand, the screw driver should be at its highest point when the mark you are using is lined up with the arrow...
edit: the flywheel has these markings
- <---- 2 degrees advanced
- <---- target for stock timing @ 700 RPM (idle)
- <---- 2 degrees retarded
- <---- TDC
the distance between the 3 and the 1 is more exagerated in real life</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y49crxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is what the flywheel markings look like,

Now, these same markings are on both sides of the flywheel, 180 degrees of each other. Is that right??? And both spots the #1 cylinder is at the top of its stroke.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you seem to be a bit confused about how the engine works, the crank spins twice as fast as the cam, so every 180 degrees of cam rotation equals 360 degrees of crank rotation. so what you see is the same marking every 180 degrees of cam rotation,
basically what you need to check for is that, the flywheel is at TDC mark, and the cam gears are both pointing striaght up, there are arrows on gear spokes. and make sure the cam gears are lined up straight. if its one tooth off, your crank mark will be way off so don't worry about how exactly lined up the cam gears are, just make sure the marks are pretty much even.

Now, these same markings are on both sides of the flywheel, 180 degrees of each other. Is that right??? And both spots the #1 cylinder is at the top of its stroke.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you seem to be a bit confused about how the engine works, the crank spins twice as fast as the cam, so every 180 degrees of cam rotation equals 360 degrees of crank rotation. so what you see is the same marking every 180 degrees of cam rotation,
basically what you need to check for is that, the flywheel is at TDC mark, and the cam gears are both pointing striaght up, there are arrows on gear spokes. and make sure the cam gears are lined up straight. if its one tooth off, your crank mark will be way off so don't worry about how exactly lined up the cam gears are, just make sure the marks are pretty much even.
So it's agreed that the little sideways looking "T" is indeed the TDC mark, correct?
Cause if so, it would seem that we have the motor set to the T mark, and the cams lined up as well to TDC.
Then again, the cams have cam gears, and the gears themselves were lined upwith the red dots pointed straight up, basically lined up with the little trench on the cam oil rails.
Unless that's not how you line up cams, I think we had this thing timed right... hmm...
Cause if so, it would seem that we have the motor set to the T mark, and the cams lined up as well to TDC.
Then again, the cams have cam gears, and the gears themselves were lined upwith the red dots pointed straight up, basically lined up with the little trench on the cam oil rails.
Unless that's not how you line up cams, I think we had this thing timed right... hmm...
Why are you bumping?, here is your answer---
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it sounds like you are using the 15 degree BTDC mark as a TDC mark.
to double check, take out the number one spark plug and drop in a very long, narrow screw driver. When you turn the engine by hand, the screw driver should be at its highest point when the mark you are using is lined up with the arrow...
edit: the flywheel has these markings
- <---- 2 degrees advanced
- <---- target for stock timing @ 700 RPM (idle)
- <---- 2 degrees retarded
- <---- TDC
the distance between the 3 and the 1 is more exagerated in real life</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it sounds like you are using the 15 degree BTDC mark as a TDC mark.
to double check, take out the number one spark plug and drop in a very long, narrow screw driver. When you turn the engine by hand, the screw driver should be at its highest point when the mark you are using is lined up with the arrow...
edit: the flywheel has these markings
- <---- 2 degrees advanced
- <---- target for stock timing @ 700 RPM (idle)
- <---- 2 degrees retarded
- <---- TDC
the distance between the 3 and the 1 is more exagerated in real life</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright, well, i showed the picture of what the markings on the flywheel look like, the ascii art greyout made do not match up to my picture, waiting on someone to relate to my pic, not one person has.
And as for why i asked if they were reversable, i have never torn down an h22, and with all the other differences this motor has from most honda motors, i made sure to ask before i assumed. I know that a d16a1, dohc non vtec, the cams can be swapped, we had a machine shop put the intake cam on the exhasut side and vice versa, and guess how long it took to figure out why teh damn car wasnt starting. Like i said, i asked because i have zero experience with this motor. Ask me to swap it, no prob, but the internals of it i am clueless about unitl i tear one down.
And as for why i asked if they were reversable, i have never torn down an h22, and with all the other differences this motor has from most honda motors, i made sure to ask before i assumed. I know that a d16a1, dohc non vtec, the cams can be swapped, we had a machine shop put the intake cam on the exhasut side and vice versa, and guess how long it took to figure out why teh damn car wasnt starting. Like i said, i asked because i have zero experience with this motor. Ask me to swap it, no prob, but the internals of it i am clueless about unitl i tear one down.
ok, the dist can only go on one cam, intake does not have the slot for the dist.
the dist SHOULD only go on the cam one way, how ever i have seen where the cam slot was wore out enough that you could get the dist on 180 out...
next as all said firing order, I've seen it happen, but u say its covered...
third, (and id prob do this first, i just thought of it last) take the plastic timing belt lower cover off...when the cams are at tdc, the key should be strait up, and line up on the arrow on the block...sure way to eliminate that...
sorry i cant tell you about the flywheel mark...i put a new clutch and flywheel in my car when i first bought it so i never used that, always used the crank key
the dist SHOULD only go on the cam one way, how ever i have seen where the cam slot was wore out enough that you could get the dist on 180 out...
next as all said firing order, I've seen it happen, but u say its covered...
third, (and id prob do this first, i just thought of it last) take the plastic timing belt lower cover off...when the cams are at tdc, the key should be strait up, and line up on the arrow on the block...sure way to eliminate that...
sorry i cant tell you about the flywheel mark...i put a new clutch and flywheel in my car when i first bought it so i never used that, always used the crank key
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoSideways »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So it's agreed that the little sideways looking "T" is indeed the TDC mark, correct?
Cause if so, it would seem that we have the motor set to the T mark, and the cams lined up as well to TDC.
Then again, the cams have cam gears, and the gears themselves were lined upwith the red dots pointed straight up, basically lined up with the little trench on the cam oil rails.
Unless that's not how you line up cams, I think we had this thing timed right... hmm...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I still say pull the bottom timing cover and check it over do it all right and once
At tdc, the marks on the cam gears are not straight up. They are side to side even with the plane of the head. The keyway on the cam gear should be pointing straight up. NOT the indentations on the gears. Also when the cams are at tdc look on cylinder 2 on the cover plates you should be able to slide a thin punch threw the holes on the cam cover plate down into the cam to asure its at tdc. Hope this helps
Cause if so, it would seem that we have the motor set to the T mark, and the cams lined up as well to TDC.
Then again, the cams have cam gears, and the gears themselves were lined upwith the red dots pointed straight up, basically lined up with the little trench on the cam oil rails.
Unless that's not how you line up cams, I think we had this thing timed right... hmm...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I still say pull the bottom timing cover and check it over do it all right and once
At tdc, the marks on the cam gears are not straight up. They are side to side even with the plane of the head. The keyway on the cam gear should be pointing straight up. NOT the indentations on the gears. Also when the cams are at tdc look on cylinder 2 on the cover plates you should be able to slide a thin punch threw the holes on the cam cover plate down into the cam to asure its at tdc. Hope this helps
sounds like engine timing is off. that's what was wrong with mine. and, as stated before, the distributor only fits in one way in the exhaust cam so you can't switch them.
your drawing is correct, I guess my markings were backwards. I could have sworn the engine spun the other way but I never can remember 
The TDC mark is actually the line NEXT to the T, but thats a very small amount....
also, the cam gears have markings that should be pointed directly at eachother when at TDC.

The TDC mark is actually the line NEXT to the T, but thats a very small amount....
also, the cam gears have markings that should be pointed directly at eachother when at TDC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you seem to be a bit confused about how the engine works, the crank spins twice as fast as the cam, so every 180 degrees of cam rotation equals 360 degrees of crank rotation. so what you see is the same marking every 180 degrees of cam rotation,
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol I made this mistake on my timing belt - I put the whole thing together, turned the engine over a few times by hand - looked at the markings again and I was like "WTF, I'm A JACKASS, HOW IS IT 180 DEGREES OFF!?"
so I re-did it.
thats my penality for being a moron
you seem to be a bit confused about how the engine works, the crank spins twice as fast as the cam, so every 180 degrees of cam rotation equals 360 degrees of crank rotation. so what you see is the same marking every 180 degrees of cam rotation,
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol I made this mistake on my timing belt - I put the whole thing together, turned the engine over a few times by hand - looked at the markings again and I was like "WTF, I'm A JACKASS, HOW IS IT 180 DEGREES OFF!?"
so I re-did it.
thats my penality for being a moron
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