Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty??
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From: Pomona, ca, USA
Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty??
How difficult is it to replace new threads for my lug nuts. I seem to only be able to put two lug nuts on each front side since the other threads are warped. The back wheels are ok but the fronts are gone. It is image 17 on the picture. Would I need any special tools to take it apart.???? Has anyone done this before???
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Re: Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty?? (EKSOHCV-TechRider)
You just need to put in new wheel studs ARP makes some there are other companies out there also
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From: Pomona, ca, USA
Re: Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty?? (CRX Toad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You just need to put in new wheel studs ARP makes some there are other companies out there also</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I know but how difficult is the job would I need to rent some kind of special tool to remove it???? I would rather get stock I did a search on the arp they are pricy compared to oem at $3-4 each. Arp were $12+ each stud. I only want to replace them.
Yes I know but how difficult is the job would I need to rent some kind of special tool to remove it???? I would rather get stock I did a search on the arp they are pricy compared to oem at $3-4 each. Arp were $12+ each stud. I only want to replace them.
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From: Surrey, BC, Canada
Re: Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty?? (EKSOHCV-TechRider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKSOHCV-TechRider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Arp were $12+ each stud. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ARP are $12 for 4 studs. Same price as OEM. But you'll need open ended lugnuts since the stud is so long.
Arp were $12+ each stud. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ARP are $12 for 4 studs. Same price as OEM. But you'll need open ended lugnuts since the stud is so long.
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Re: (allmotorgsrekk)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorgsrekk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to have wheel bearings pressed out and back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No you don't, you can use a slide puller ( slide hammer )
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907985
No you don't, you can use a slide puller ( slide hammer )
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907985
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From: Pomona, ca, USA
Re: (90blackcrx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No you don't, you can use a slide puller ( slide hammer )
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907985</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool thanks this should help.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907985</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool thanks this should help.
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Thread Starter
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From: Pomona, ca, USA
Re: Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty?? (Jaker)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ARP are $12 for 4 studs. Same price as OEM. But you'll need open ended lugnuts since the stud is so long.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup just ordered mine for $11 a set came out to $30 shipped from here good price I think.
http://www.wiredspeed.com/item...q=&Tp=
Yup just ordered mine for $11 a set came out to $30 shipped from here good price I think.
http://www.wiredspeed.com/item...q=&Tp=
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From: honky in, nc, usa
Re: Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty?? (EKSOHCV-TechRider)
the slid hammer was a good idea i would have done it the hard way with the press. props for a good idea
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Re: Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty?? (abnaasefmb)
slide hammer pretty much kills your wheel bearings, not instantly but a couple miles down the road.
press em in.
press em in.
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From: downshifting into 5th,, nyc, usa
Re: Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty?? (Fobtions)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">slide hammer pretty much kills your wheel bearings, not instantly but a couple miles down the road.
press em in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
take the knuckles off, and pay a friendly shop to press them. they can press your studs too, which is a lot easier and wont risk messing up the threads on the new ones. i got mine done for 10 bucks. replacing the wb if yours has any play, or if it has a lot of miles, is a good idea too, as they really aren't sposed to go back together again.
press em in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
take the knuckles off, and pay a friendly shop to press them. they can press your studs too, which is a lot easier and wont risk messing up the threads on the new ones. i got mine done for 10 bucks. replacing the wb if yours has any play, or if it has a lot of miles, is a good idea too, as they really aren't sposed to go back together again.
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From: Bay area, California
no u dont need a slide puller, or remove ur hub....
i did this at my dealership , i cut a little off the brake shield..wehre it mounts around the hub...knocked out the stud with a hammer..took like 2 hits...slipped a new lug nut in thru the back...then used a impact gun and used that to press the stud in
overall took= 5min
i serached all over hondatech and alto of ppl said just remove the hub or used a slide hammer
this method is alot more easier, you also just have to grind a little off the HEAD of the bolt
i did this at my dealership , i cut a little off the brake shield..wehre it mounts around the hub...knocked out the stud with a hammer..took like 2 hits...slipped a new lug nut in thru the back...then used a impact gun and used that to press the stud in
overall took= 5min
i serached all over hondatech and alto of ppl said just remove the hub or used a slide hammer
this method is alot more easier, you also just have to grind a little off the HEAD of the bolt
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From: downshifting into 5th,, nyc, usa
Re: (Ba4)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ba4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no u dont need a slide puller, or remove ur hub....
i did this at my dealership , i cut a little off the brake shield..wehre it mounts around the hub...knocked out the stud with a hammer..took like 2 hits...slipped a new lug nut in thru the back...then used a impact gun and used that to press the stud in
overall took= 5min</TD></TR></TABLE>
on what kind of car? the ef knuckels are in the way when you try to get it in from the back... you gotta grind something if you want to do it with the hubs in. methods described above are ways of dealing with the problem. pressing the hubs out is the *right* way to do it. i've done it w/ a slide hammer and with a bearing press. use the press.
i did this at my dealership , i cut a little off the brake shield..wehre it mounts around the hub...knocked out the stud with a hammer..took like 2 hits...slipped a new lug nut in thru the back...then used a impact gun and used that to press the stud in
overall took= 5min</TD></TR></TABLE>
on what kind of car? the ef knuckels are in the way when you try to get it in from the back... you gotta grind something if you want to do it with the hubs in. methods described above are ways of dealing with the problem. pressing the hubs out is the *right* way to do it. i've done it w/ a slide hammer and with a bearing press. use the press.
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From: Bay area, California
Re: (rsca_crx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
on what kind of car? the ef knuckels are in the way when you try to get it in from the back... you gotta grind something if you want to do it with the hubs in. methods described above are ways of dealing with the problem. pressing the hubs out is the *right* way to do it. i've done it w/ a slide hammer and with a bearing press. use the press.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is on my 90 hatchback, i did it at work, yes u gotta grind the top of the head of the bolt, at a angle to make it fit...it doesnt effect anything, been rolling on it for awhile now.
i didnt feel like staying at work to unbolt everything to get my hubs out or use a slide hammer, the thign thats in the way is the Brake Shield...u notch out a square and then hit the stud out, grind a little off the top of the stud at a angle(the head of the stud), and then impact gun it on.
ive done it, all my friends have done it on there hondas.
am i saying its right way to do it? no, if u dont got time to unbolt ur control arms press out ur bearings, or take a slide hammer to do it, then u can do it this way, up to you, u can tell me its the wrong way but i been rollin on it for awhile and my friend who put his in have been rollin on it for years
so those are ur options
remove ur control arm and take it to a place to get ur bearings pushed out
take a slide hammer to it
or spend 10-15 minutes all you need is basic tools to remove the brakes..a grinder and ur done
actually less time if u have a lift and power tools mine was about 10min
search and you'll find a write up about what im talking about the whole grinding the head of the bolt
up to you
on what kind of car? the ef knuckels are in the way when you try to get it in from the back... you gotta grind something if you want to do it with the hubs in. methods described above are ways of dealing with the problem. pressing the hubs out is the *right* way to do it. i've done it w/ a slide hammer and with a bearing press. use the press.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is on my 90 hatchback, i did it at work, yes u gotta grind the top of the head of the bolt, at a angle to make it fit...it doesnt effect anything, been rolling on it for awhile now.
i didnt feel like staying at work to unbolt everything to get my hubs out or use a slide hammer, the thign thats in the way is the Brake Shield...u notch out a square and then hit the stud out, grind a little off the top of the stud at a angle(the head of the stud), and then impact gun it on.
ive done it, all my friends have done it on there hondas.
am i saying its right way to do it? no, if u dont got time to unbolt ur control arms press out ur bearings, or take a slide hammer to do it, then u can do it this way, up to you, u can tell me its the wrong way but i been rollin on it for awhile and my friend who put his in have been rollin on it for years
so those are ur options
remove ur control arm and take it to a place to get ur bearings pushed out
take a slide hammer to it
or spend 10-15 minutes all you need is basic tools to remove the brakes..a grinder and ur done
actually less time if u have a lift and power tools mine was about 10min
search and you'll find a write up about what im talking about the whole grinding the head of the bolt
up to you
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From: downshifting into 5th,, nyc, usa
Re: (Ba4)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ba4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is on my 90 hatchback, i did it at work, yes u gotta grind the top of the head of the bolt, at a angle to make it fit...it doesnt effect anything, been rolling on it for awhile now.
i didnt feel like staying at work to unbolt everything to get my hubs out or use a slide hammer, the thign thats in the way is the Brake Shield...u notch out a square and then hit the stud out, grind a little off the top of the stud at a angle(the head of the stud), and then impact gun it on.
ive done it, all my friends have done it on there hondas.
am i saying its right way to do it? no, if u dont got time to unbolt ur control arms press out ur bearings, or take a slide hammer to do it, then u can do it this way, up to you, u can tell me its the wrong way but i been rollin on it for awhile and my friend who put his in have been rollin on it for years
so those are ur options
remove ur control arm and take it to a place to get ur bearings pushed out
take a slide hammer to it
or spend 10-15 minutes all you need is basic tools to remove the brakes..a grinder and ur done
actually less time if u have a lift and power tools mine was about 10min
search and you'll find a write up about what im talking about the whole grinding the head of the bolt
up to you</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm well aware of the "grind the head a little" method", and have helped some people do it on their cars. there are actually a couple of threads on here- one is very poorly done. i'm not going to search it out, but the stud head is really mangled. i said "right" way because that is how honda designed it. if i thought it was the only way, i wouldn't have quoted it- lots of things work for lots of things.
on my car- i'll press out the hubs every time i replace all the studs (for extended) and replace everything i took off with new parts. if i only had to fix one, and the hubs were fairly new, i'd prolly go with the grinder.
i didnt feel like staying at work to unbolt everything to get my hubs out or use a slide hammer, the thign thats in the way is the Brake Shield...u notch out a square and then hit the stud out, grind a little off the top of the stud at a angle(the head of the stud), and then impact gun it on.
ive done it, all my friends have done it on there hondas.
am i saying its right way to do it? no, if u dont got time to unbolt ur control arms press out ur bearings, or take a slide hammer to do it, then u can do it this way, up to you, u can tell me its the wrong way but i been rollin on it for awhile and my friend who put his in have been rollin on it for years
so those are ur options
remove ur control arm and take it to a place to get ur bearings pushed out
take a slide hammer to it
or spend 10-15 minutes all you need is basic tools to remove the brakes..a grinder and ur done
actually less time if u have a lift and power tools mine was about 10min
search and you'll find a write up about what im talking about the whole grinding the head of the bolt
up to you</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm well aware of the "grind the head a little" method", and have helped some people do it on their cars. there are actually a couple of threads on here- one is very poorly done. i'm not going to search it out, but the stud head is really mangled. i said "right" way because that is how honda designed it. if i thought it was the only way, i wouldn't have quoted it- lots of things work for lots of things.
on my car- i'll press out the hubs every time i replace all the studs (for extended) and replace everything i took off with new parts. if i only had to fix one, and the hubs were fairly new, i'd prolly go with the grinder.
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From: Somewhere in California
Re: (rsca_crx)
Just out of curiousity, what socket can be used to press the wheel bearing in/out of the knuckle? My ARP wheel studs have yet to be installed, but when I do install them I'm gonna use the press at our hobby shop. However I dont want to use the Honda tool to press the stuff in and out.
I know for the studs you can use a large socket to press the stud out then again to press it back in. However how would I press the wheel bearing out without the Honda adapter? also a pic would be nice, or maybe just a quick jpg illustration.
Thanks
I know for the studs you can use a large socket to press the stud out then again to press it back in. However how would I press the wheel bearing out without the Honda adapter? also a pic would be nice, or maybe just a quick jpg illustration.
Thanks
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From: Bay area, California
Re: (rsca_crx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
. i said "right" way because that is how honda designed it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sigh if u wanan take it there, honda didnt design our cars to be lowered, dragged, or anything like that, crx hf wasnt "designed" to throw motors in it and drag it cuase of how light it was, it was "designed" light for fuel economy
and managled ? depends on how u cut it u dotn need much and i cut mine off real clean
. i said "right" way because that is how honda designed it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sigh if u wanan take it there, honda didnt design our cars to be lowered, dragged, or anything like that, crx hf wasnt "designed" to throw motors in it and drag it cuase of how light it was, it was "designed" light for fuel economy
and managled ? depends on how u cut it u dotn need much and i cut mine off real clean
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From: downshifting into 5th,, nyc, usa
Re: (Ba4)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ba4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sigh if u wanan take it there, honda didnt design our cars to be lowered, dragged, or anything like that, crx hf wasnt "designed" to throw motors in it and drag it cuase of how light it was, it was "designed" light for fuel economy
and managled ? depends on how u cut it u dotn need much and i cut mine off real clean </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, take this with a grain of something cause its late, but-
comparing that kind of design (lowered, swapped, different parts) to the way that a part is designed to come apart or go together is way off-base. i can probably get a valve cover off with a blow torch and a sledge, but i'm not going to try. its a matter of scale, and at the one were talking, shortcuts are generally a bad idea.
designing something towards a goal is another debate completely. design is a results-based business. it doesn't matter the drive or goal, what matters is the result. you designed your reply to be intelligent- it wasn't. light for economy or light for racing doesn't matter. what matters to this type of argument is that it is light. it isn't a question about purity of design or mr. honda rolling over in his grave cause you did something that he didn't tell you was ok. the point is that your method is a compromise that you are willing to make because it is easier or cheaper or whatever. if i thought it was a better way, i'd say do it every time. but i think it simply sacrifices quality for speed and cash.
if you want to debate design, feel free to start your own thread in an appropriate forum, and we'll go about it there. i get paid to do it all day.
the original post showing the grinder method is down-it was on fourthgenhatch i believe, but it was a complete hackjob. i said this so that if someone looked at it they would use some caution. you only need to get the lip flat on one "side", not go into the stud like the diy that was postesd.
the slidehammer method will often mess up your bearings. you might get it to work every time. i wouldnt recommend it.
and managled ? depends on how u cut it u dotn need much and i cut mine off real clean </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, take this with a grain of something cause its late, but-
comparing that kind of design (lowered, swapped, different parts) to the way that a part is designed to come apart or go together is way off-base. i can probably get a valve cover off with a blow torch and a sledge, but i'm not going to try. its a matter of scale, and at the one were talking, shortcuts are generally a bad idea.
designing something towards a goal is another debate completely. design is a results-based business. it doesn't matter the drive or goal, what matters is the result. you designed your reply to be intelligent- it wasn't. light for economy or light for racing doesn't matter. what matters to this type of argument is that it is light. it isn't a question about purity of design or mr. honda rolling over in his grave cause you did something that he didn't tell you was ok. the point is that your method is a compromise that you are willing to make because it is easier or cheaper or whatever. if i thought it was a better way, i'd say do it every time. but i think it simply sacrifices quality for speed and cash.
if you want to debate design, feel free to start your own thread in an appropriate forum, and we'll go about it there. i get paid to do it all day.
the original post showing the grinder method is down-it was on fourthgenhatch i believe, but it was a complete hackjob. i said this so that if someone looked at it they would use some caution. you only need to get the lip flat on one "side", not go into the stud like the diy that was postesd.
the slidehammer method will often mess up your bearings. you might get it to work every time. i wouldnt recommend it.
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From: Illinois
Re: Replacing new threads for the Lug nuts on the front knuckles?? Difficulty?? (Fobtions)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">slide hammer pretty much kills your wheel bearings, not instantly but a couple miles down the road.
press em in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have done it on many cars, and none of them ever had a wheel bearing problem. As long as you don't go crazy with the slide hammer, and you pull evenly, you will be fine.
press em in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have done it on many cars, and none of them ever had a wheel bearing problem. As long as you don't go crazy with the slide hammer, and you pull evenly, you will be fine.
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From: Connecticut, USA
Re: (Ba4)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ba4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no u dont need a slide puller, or remove ur hub....
i did this at my dealership , i cut a little off the brake shield..wehre it mounts around the hub...knocked out the stud with a hammer..took like 2 hits...slipped a new lug nut in thru the back...then used a impact gun and used that to press the stud in
overall took= 5min
i serached all over hondatech and alto of ppl said just remove the hub or used a slide hammer
this method is alot more easier, you also just have to grind a little off the HEAD of the bolt </TD></TR></TABLE>
i use the same method. works great don't have to take anything off or cost me extra money for tools or to go to a shop to press them in.
i did this at my dealership , i cut a little off the brake shield..wehre it mounts around the hub...knocked out the stud with a hammer..took like 2 hits...slipped a new lug nut in thru the back...then used a impact gun and used that to press the stud in
overall took= 5min
i serached all over hondatech and alto of ppl said just remove the hub or used a slide hammer
this method is alot more easier, you also just have to grind a little off the HEAD of the bolt </TD></TR></TABLE>
i use the same method. works great don't have to take anything off or cost me extra money for tools or to go to a shop to press them in.
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