well, I wanted an Autometer oil pressure gauge. I needed a new motor, new motor goes in (JDM DOHC ZC), "hey I have seen people use brass to "t" into the stock oil pressure sending unit..........yeah, let's do that!"

note: someone I know advised me against this.........

well, now john b/c of his eagerness may be forced to buy a new block and rebuild! Let's all clap for john!

on a serious note.........I really could use some advice now as to options............if there really are any.

 

ive seen this happen before.

you could have a matchine shop weld and then tap it.
Or and take some JB weld put it all back together with the fitting in. <u>It has worked</u> but obviously its a little ghetto.

 

edit: looks like i was beaten to the punch...

hey man that block isn't completely ruined from that.
- aluminum epoxy or jb weld at the worst
- aluminum can be welded

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KFBhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">edit: looks like i was beaten to the punch...

hey man that block isn't completely ruined from that.
- aluminum epoxy or jb weld at the worst
- aluminum can be welded
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah any decent machine shop should be able to fix that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alecjoesph &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah any decent machine shop should be able to fix that
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yea I wouldnt worry about it its a easy fix.

 

i would go ghetto on that....

 

How the hell did you manage that, ive used the brass fittings to T off and ive never done this to a block, job well done lol

 

C'mon man you pWn3d yourself, now next time have patience.

 

take off the coolant pipe and bring engine to a welder. Preferably one that does aluminum. Easy and not costly fix.

 

Saw off the remaining part, get the right size tap and tap it for the correct size then you can run your oil press gauge/idoit light sender however you like... You should be able to do all this without takin the motor out...

Blaze

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Saw off the remaining part, get the right size tap and tap it for the correct size then you can run your oil press gauge/idoit light sender however you like... You should be able to do all this without takin the motor out...

Blaze</TD></TR></TABLE>
And how do you suggest he remove the bits of aluminum left in the block from this process without taking it out of the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphajesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And how do you suggest he remove the bits of aluminum left in the block from this process without taking it out of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

magic<U></U>.....weve known its existed for 2000 years

Dave Chapelle ownz all!!!!

 

I just jb welded that piece back on and threaded my fitting in while the JB weld was just setting and held it there for a few minutes

It snapped off when installing a tuner toys T and that worked perfect, has lasted for about 8 months now I think

BTW- you aint seen ghetto until youve seen my exhaust

12+ feet of 2.5" flex pipe lol

Its a complete $40 exhaust, I actually kinda like it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

BTW- you aint seen ghetto until youve seen my exhaust

12+ feet of 2.5" flex pipe lol

Its a complete $40 exhaust, I actually kinda like it</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

well, basically it happened like this. I used mis information and used a NPT brass extension to a 90 elbow then a "t" and had both senders there........worked great, for 4weeks...........

I noticed a drop-off in oilpressure and I immediately shut it down. go to inspect it and as soon as I grabbed the brass connections it snapped off. No biggie I though, took the IM off, got an extractor, got the brass piece off.........then b/c of needing to get my car running I decided I would just put my stock OPS back in and get it going, never would tighten up, began to back it out, and it BROKE!

now I discover upon reading H-T (H-T oWnZ me ) that the threads got f'd up b/c it is BSPT and not NPT.........and here I am today,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphajesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And how do you suggest he remove the bits of aluminum left in the block from this process without taking it out of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you tap the hole just use heavy bearing grease on the tap to catch the shavings. Run the motor for a very short time to check for leaks and change the oil and filter. People do this to tap oil pans for a turbo drain all the time.

 

thanks for the advice guys...................how reliable would using the adapter that goes between the oil filter and motor be at running the stock oil pressure sending unit and/or the sending unit for the gauge? Who makes those adapters? I remember seeing them for turbo guys needing a clean oil feed line adaption point for the turbo. Any clue how much they run?

 

My adapter leaked like mad, and I've seen numerous leaky adapters in person.

Next time, run a brass extention to the firewall, tee it off the firewall instead.

 

That's ******* classic.

The block isn't ruined... yet atleast...

JB weld would work, having someone fix it would be better

yeah that's funny though