Stock Miata bushings suck!






Finally coming along SLOWLY! Need to get more done in less time and find more time!

 

looks familiar... my buddy is also building a lotus 7. i'll try to get some pics of it sometime soon. That thing is deffinately gonna be a auto cross monster.

 

Why is there no/not alot of triangulation in your frame? The thing looks like it will lack alot of essential chassis stiffness. A chassis with square or rectangular bracing is inferior to a chassis with proper triangulation that braces the entire car to prevent flex under heavy loads.

Just an observation

 

Cause I am not near finished.. I still have about 60 ft of tubing to go into the car,

Basically I built the skeleton and I will add in the Triangles as I get closer to having fitted most things!

Thanks tho!

 

cool man I would like to see more pictures of the project as it moves farther along. its always nice to see grass roots car building. check out this guy he is going a similar route as you. good luck

http://www.dpcars.net/

 

What RPM did you set the lathe at, and how much were you taking off on each pass? Is that Delrin? Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What RPM did you set the lathe at, and how much were you taking off on each pass? Is that Delrin? Thanks! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Around 250rpm.

Its Acetal which is like Delrin

Took off .75mm per pass..

 

Cool project...

Curious to know a couple things (going to do DIY bushings soon):

What tolerances do you machine to for a press-fit? Just a couple hundredths extra?

Also, is the inner sleeve bushing necessary? Seems to me you'd not need it?? Less friction??

Why acetal & not UHMW instead?

Thx...

 

have any good sites about kit cars/replicars? I have always been interested in building one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gpteitz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cool project...

Curious to know a couple things (going to do DIY bushings soon):

What tolerances do you machine to for a press-fit? Just a couple hundredths extra?

Also, is the inner sleeve bushing necessary? Seems to me you'd not need it?? Less friction??

Why acetal & not UHMW instead?

Thx...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I machined them to .01mm over the holes size.. So it was pressed in and HELLA tight!

I used the pins just so I get the full benefit of the isolation and so that there is less friction on the surface of the bushing!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have any good sites about kit cars/replicars? I have always been interested in building one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What car? I have over a couple hundred kit car favorites..

And why Acetal ? Because its like Delrin but more heat resistant.. I wanted Nylon 6/6 but couldnt find it in a 3" log

 

...you made your own bushings from bars of stock? You = a badass in my book

 

what are those pins made from ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Want2race &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What car? I have over a couple hundred kit car favorites..

And why Acetal ? Because its like Delrin but more heat resistant.. I wanted Nylon 6/6 but couldnt find it in a 3" log</TD></TR></TABLE>

no idea, i need a begginer type site. where i can just read about what people are doing/having trouble with, etc... so i can decide when im ready to attempt building my own.

 

have you looked at kit car.com?

 

trying now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Formula Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are those pins made from ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stainless

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Want2race &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock Miata bushings suck!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

your welding could use some work before you decide to built a kit car!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

your welding could use some work before you decide to built a kit car! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not a final weld.. Just a first bead, Its strong as hell tho!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Want2race &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its not a final weld.. Just a first bead, Its strong as hell tho!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, I'm guessing that's relatively thin wall (.065?) square tube there. There isn't any need for a "final weld". Your first run should be your last with that stuff.

Just a question, why the abundant use of square tube? Round tube is stronger, and because of this you can use thinner wall, making it lighter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goullish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a question, why the abundant use of square tube? Round tube is stronger, and because of this you can use thinner wall, making it lighter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my guess? square ube is much easier to work with, since you can make any angle joint with just a hacksaw. No need for cutting angles through tube with a hole saw to get a good joint.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goullish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Um, I'm guessing that's relatively thin wall (.065?) square tube there. There isn't any need for a "final weld". Your first run should be your last with that stuff.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably if he was going to change anything he wouldnt want to do the best work OR if its a hard to get at area.. but other than that your right.