well since I just opened my tire shop and have a lot of time to spend on my car I decided to fix my problem with the ground clearence of my hatch. Not that easy but not that hard....and I am still not finished it but its looking like it might work. I am using my 2 year old HCP mounts as my giunee pig and some fabrication need to be done. Remember this is only a mock up.

ok.. heres the driver side raised about 2" using the stock HCP mount. This bracket is only temporary since I'll have a machine shop make me a bracket that will surround the entire rubber section.



heres the passenger side with the frame mount cut to raise up the mount, the frame rail had to be hammer in a little bit so that the trans would fit. the HCP mount had to be cut so it wouldnt get pinched on the frame mount edge. I'm also thinking about using a auto trans mount since it sits higher... and I wont have to mod it as much.






the rear mount is only a matter of just using some spacers and longer bolts



now the best thing about this whole mod is the ground clearance gained. I dont think I'll have to worry about my header anymore... WOOOHOOOOO.





and this is how low the car is now.


luckily the hood closes fine but under hard acceleration it will hit unless I remove some of the underhood webbing. You can see how high it sits now
BTW.. I did cut the cam gear cover because it wanterted to protrude out the hood.



an added benefit that I noticed is that the axles actually line up really dam good, I never really had axle issues but this is a plus. These are pics taken from the spindle axle hole with the car on the ground.




ALSO I think the Full Race bars will actually be mounted in it intended location with out rubbing issues. If you guys have any suggestion let hear 'em.

remember this is only a mock up I can change anything @ this point so tell what you think might cause a problem.

 

I would recommend putting a spacer in between the frame where the mount usually sits on both the passenger and drivers side. I think it may bend or tweak a little. I like the idea.

 

other then the "hood hitting" issue, i dont see anything wrong with it.

 

yeah, that is definetely cool. not a bad idea.

 

if it worked that well im surprised that hasport or hcp hasnt come up with anything like it yet, i woner why they didnt....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it worked that well im surprised that hasport or hcp hasnt come up with anything like it yet, i woner why they didnt....</TD></TR></TABLE>i figured they didnt make a kit like this because then it wouldnt be a "bolt in" kit. Remember other than hacking up the mount I had to pound in the frame rail to clear the trans and cut the valve cover, hell I might even have to cut the webbing on the hood.

 

If you put on 17's you would have save yourself all dat trouble..

 

Better paten it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason kiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you put on 17's you would have save yourself all dat trouble.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

17's= no traction bars.
17's= slower 1/4 times.
17's= harsher ride.
17's= more $ for rim & tires if they get damaged.

no thanks.

 

if you make some measurements and take this to someone that can fab these up, id like to buy a kit, so will a lot of people here, so get off your *** and get going on these

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H23vtecEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you make some measurements and take this to someone that can fab these up, id like to buy a kit, so will a lot of people here, so get off your *** and get going on these</TD></TR></TABLE>I really would like to but financially I cant afford to get a kit started plus its not a proven setup.

 

He was being sarcastic about the 17's, buddy.

 

I never really had to many ground clearence issues with my hotshot header, but looks good

 

anybody with any ideas? or suggestions?

 

seems to me like u got it all figured out.

 

The only thing I can think of is this. If you use one bolt on each side of the "extension", the bolts will act like a hinge under load. Use more bracing and/or more bolts on the base of the extension. And this:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would recommend putting a spacer in between the frame where the mount usually sits on both the passenger and drivers side. I think it may bend or tweak a little.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing I can think of is this. If you use one bolt on each side of the "extension", the bolts will act like a hinge under load. Use more bracing and/or more bolts on the base of the extension. And this:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, just a little bracing will help.

Overall it's an excellent idea and I would like to do something similar with my teg.

 

wow, thats pretty sweet

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing I can think of is this. If you use one bolt on each side of the "extension", the bolts will act like a hinge under load. Use more bracing and/or more bolts on the base of the extension. And this:</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did think of that after a long talk with a few friends and I have decided to weld the bracket to the chassis mount on the driver side and will replace the pass chasis mount with an automatic mount since it points upward.


Modified by fastwanabe at 4:09 AM 2/26/2005

 

thats an excellent point yall.. u can never go wrong with extra bracing/support.


-i think my favorite thing about this, is the fact that the axles are so much straighter. definetely a +

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ....... will replace the pass chasis mount with an automatic mount since it points upward.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thnk you should fab your own bracket. I do not think the auto bracket is worth the time. You have access to a welder?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thnk you should fab your own bracket. I do not think the auto bracket is worth the time. You have access to a welder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont have access to a real welder @ my shop but around the corner is a welder that I plan to take the car once all fabrication is completed. I'd like to use an auto mount since it's cheaper to get and wont need to be reinforced like a fabricated mount would. If I were to make a kit out of it it would cost more to duplicate a fabed up mount and less of a chance to get screwed up by the machinist, that's why I want to use a stock Honda bracket

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'd like to use an auto mount since it's cheaper to get and wont need to be reinforced like a fabricated mount would. </TD></TR></TABLE>

To make it, it will be like $20-$40 more then the auto. The time to design it will be more then the auto. But, it will be made to the right spec. The only thing I would look out for with the auto mount is the bottom of the mount hitting the trans. You will probably have to get the suto mount welded to the frame.

You may want to look into EK (top) transmission mount. The whole mount unbolts. If you use the part that is weld to the frame, you can bolt and unbolt a fabricated mount. It will make servicing the car alot easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

To make it, it will be like $20-$40 more then the auto. The time to design it will be more then the auto. But, it will be made to the right spec. The only thing I would look out for with the auto mount is the bottom of the mount hitting the trans. You will probably have to get the suto mount welded to the frame.

You may want to look into EK (top) transmission mount. The whole mount unbolts. If you use the part that is weld to the frame, you can bolt and unbolt a fabricated mount. It will make servicing the car alot easier. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll look into that sound like a good idea.

BTW Hasport came out with a new EG H22 kit that might work even beeter than what I'm doing.

 

I don't have problems with my header , except on serious inclinces and crazy high speed bumps [even my mom's stock lexus scrapes some of these things].



I give you for doing it