Alright...Hoping someone knows what i'm overlooking. Basicly, I finally made the switch to the AEM EMS late in December. I'm testing out setting and learning the program while its running my NA B16A1 before it runs the new engine.

Before switching to the EMS, I was running a chipped PR3 and the motor ran strong. In all honesty, I don't know what kind of injectors I have. I had one died and a friend sold me some he had on hand. I put them in, they ran rich, but I used the VAFC and Fuel reg and brought the A/F into a respectable range. Now, on the EMS, I can't seem to get my A/F down to a safe level as the pix show. I've tried every batt. offset setting and even maxed out the fuel map and dialed up the pressure, but I still go very lean. I'm using a AEM Wideband, 3.5bar fuel pressure, '92 Teg, B16A1 - all obd1

Have I overlooked a setting? I know the previous computer was providing plenty of fuel to the engine because it pulled hard and I always ran a A/F gauge...and the car pulls hard right up to the point where it starts to lean out.




(yes, I know the A/F is all over. I'll do the tuning when I figure out how to get the engine to stop leaining out)



This is the richest setting in the offset, but its still not enough. I know this probably isn't good on the injectors, but its better than a blown engine.

 

Picking a bigger injector than what you really have will cause idle, mid range and WOT problems, don't do it. Go log your "injector duty" first and come back to us.

 

I understand that. I've run every available Honda injector setup. This is the best of the available options and provided the slowest degrade of A/F out of the bunch. I'd go do a run for ya, but I'm out of town till tomorrow night. I was hoping that I could figure out a solution before Sunday, because thats when I'll get to work on it next.

-is there any other setting, besides Batt. offset and the fuel map, that could be the fix?

 

You must choose the correct battery offset for the injectors you run. If you are randomly changing different battery offsets this will guarantee a burnt up injector driver. Choose the correct battery offset for your application. The battery offset is NOT used to correct fueling, your fuel map is. For now just use O2 feedback until you learn alittle more about the EMS functions.

 

OK...I'll rewrite what was already written. I already set an original fuel map. I kept adding injector pulse length, but after about 6500rpms, I can't get enough fuel into this engine. I made run after run, adding more pulse length with every run. I pushed to its max of a 19.1 pulse length running my injectors upwards of a "130%" duty cycle. Obviously this isn't good. I then started selecting other batt. offsets because I found it to be my last option. No mater what pulse length or what batt. offset, I can't get enough fuel into that engine. Now...problem being, the A/F was good on the chipped ecu, but not w/ the EMS. So far, heres what I've figured as a possibility. I set the timing to Zero on the distributor to allow the EMS to take care of all the timing. Problem being, could the injectors be firing to late because the EMS is taking a factory 10degree setting into calculation?

 

When you say you set the ditributor to "0", do you mean you set it back to the factory setting of say "16" then synced the ems correctly with it using a timing light?

Did you setup the TPS correctly?

Did you change anything else from stock like MAP sensor/etc..?

Your gonna have to findout what injectors and componenets you have in your engine to get anywhere, I suggest you do some research then you'll have somewhere to start.

This is a lack of knowing your own setup problem not an AEM problem. You can guess at injectors all day but obviously that's not gonna get ya anywhere except blowing your injector drivers, and possibly the injectors themselves...

 

as I understood it, I sync the EMS exactly to the dist. Basicly, I set all timing to 10degrees on the EMS and then timed the dist till it nailed 10degrees. Then I set the EMS to 0degrees, and I checked the dist. w/ a light and it hit 0degrees on the mark. After the distributor was sync'd, I brought back the real timing maps and tuned it out for good idle and about 28 degrees of advance in the top end.

What do you mean, set up the TPS? It reads my throttle perfectly, and yes, at WOT..it reads 100% throttle.