I did this about 6 months ago. Took me my buddy about 3 nights to do it correctly. All I can say is it was well worth the effort. Car is so much more responive on the track and rotation is amazing. Here's some pics with some narration.



In this pic (sorry about the blur), you can get an idea of how I shimmed the OEM ITR D-bracket in order to space it the proper distance so the endlinks function correctly. The shims are made of 1/4" aluminum plates (to cut some weight) sandwiched between 3/8" steel plates (for added strength).

Unfortunetly, I had to use a few washers to shim the lower part of the plate shims to make everything flush. Some sort of bushing or collar here would be advisable, and I may change that around in the future.
I then drilled the holes through the subframe, using the D-brackets as a guide.



A profile shot of how well everything lines up. The top bolts go all the way through the subframe, and are reinforced on the opposite side with another 1 1/2" x 4" steel plate of 3/8" thickness (the barely visible blue plate near the exhaust pipe). This is, I think, the key to this install.

The bottom bolt could go all the through, but I chose to simply use a large, heavy on the inside of the subframe. I had to grind away the threaded hole for the ABS line bracket to get the lower bolt to sit flush inside the subframe.





About as good a pic of the endlinks as I can get. From what I've read, you want them to be as perpendicular to the ground as possible When the D-brackets are shimmed, the endlinks are in the correct position.

I think this is a pretty good way to do this right. Though I wish I could CNC the shims, spacers and all the other pieces, this is what I could do with the tools at hand. All told, it's about $150 for this set up, and truly is a great upgrade for the DA. Most of this stuff could also carry over the the EF Civic, as well...

Comments welcome.

 

looks good man..im no expert in supension geometry and all that so i couldnt tell you how you could do it better..

you should put this on g2ic too..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickgmiller0408 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should put this on g2ic too..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did, no one really cared.

 

yes their a bit to slow to respond, i want to do this too, great job where did u get your sawybar? how much?

 

I'd love to know where you got the bar from, because I'd take greater cornering over more power any day.

 

meh, the 19mm ST sway bar is good enough for me. no need for the extra work.

 

the itr sway bar is not made to fit the da
why go to so much trouble when you can just get the progress 22mm sway bar for like $130 on ebay. thats what i did. it just bolts on and its gunmetle color too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drift2004 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes their a bit to slow to respond, i want to do this too, great job where did u get your sawybar? how much? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I got every part from http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/. If you search around here or on Team Idiotegra, you can find the complete list of part numbers. Adds up to around $115-125 shipped.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuikLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">meh, the 19mm ST sway bar is good enough for me. no need for the extra work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the ST bar on my car for nearly 2 years. I ran it on Streets of Willow, Phoenix Int'l and several autocrosses. I never felt that it meritted the $90 price tag. It's easy to install, but not as effective as it could be.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riceball777 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the itr sway bar is not made to fit the da
why go to so much trouble when you can just get the progress 22mm sway bar for like $130 on ebay. thats what i did. it just bolts on and its gunmetle color too </TD></TR></TABLE>

The Progress does not bolt on. It takes nearly as much effort to install it as I did for the ITR bar. You still have to drill the subframe for the Progress (it to is not really "made" for the DA), and if you think the ***** little washers it comes with are going to save your subframe from possible tear out, then think again. I also hate how the endlinks bolt to the strut mounts. I was also able to retain my lower tie bar with ease on the ITR setup.

 

We have spherical links at the sway position that provide adjustible preload, that combined with increased rear tire pressure and/or a spring rate increase in the rear provide more than enough rotation... but then again, some of us don't really AutoX where rotaion is king, so this is not high on some of our personal list's... great job at taking the initative!!!

 

What kind of struts are they? They look beefy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91TegLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of struts are they? They look beefy!</TD></TR></TABLE>
looks like Omni-Power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91TegLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of struts are they? They look beefy!</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzBlackTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
looks like Omni-Power

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes indeed

 

where can you find the ST for 90$. The best price I've found is like 115.