ARC questions
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From: NOVA
ARC questions
I hear it's harder to do thinner steel with an Arc welder as opposed to a Mig. Is this true?
Could I do exhaust work and charge piping with flanges with an ARC welder, just so long as it was mild steel? Does the fact that the piping is aluminized make difference? What about galvanized?
What kind of welds are these?
Could I do exhaust work and charge piping with flanges with an ARC welder, just so long as it was mild steel? Does the fact that the piping is aluminized make difference? What about galvanized?
What kind of welds are these?
OG Fabricator
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From: Knoxville, tn, 37912
Re: ARC questions (ILLICON3000)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLICON3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hear it's harder to do thinner steel with an Arc welder as opposed to a Mig. Is this true? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. The reason is that if you have a 3/32 stick rod, it takes X amps to melt it smoothly...then consider that youre metal is thinner than your weld rod and you got a really good chance of burning holes everywhere.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLICON3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could I do exhaust work and charge piping with flanges with an ARC welder, just so long as it was mild steel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You may be able to scab it together with it stick welder. I mean, if you have the machine already, you can use it, but I'd not buy a stick machine for this, or plan to do this kind of work with one very often. If you do it, you'd want to get some 1/16" rods. I prefer 6010 rods for stuff like this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLICON3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Does the fact that the piping is aluminized make difference? </TD></TR></TABLE>nope. The 6010 will burn right through that stuff, but grinding the coating off will probably help some.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLICON3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about galvanized?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no...same as aluminized answer above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLICON3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of welds are these? </TD></TR></TABLE>
They look like mig to me, but it's kinda far away.
Yes. The reason is that if you have a 3/32 stick rod, it takes X amps to melt it smoothly...then consider that youre metal is thinner than your weld rod and you got a really good chance of burning holes everywhere.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLICON3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could I do exhaust work and charge piping with flanges with an ARC welder, just so long as it was mild steel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You may be able to scab it together with it stick welder. I mean, if you have the machine already, you can use it, but I'd not buy a stick machine for this, or plan to do this kind of work with one very often. If you do it, you'd want to get some 1/16" rods. I prefer 6010 rods for stuff like this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLICON3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Does the fact that the piping is aluminized make difference? </TD></TR></TABLE>nope. The 6010 will burn right through that stuff, but grinding the coating off will probably help some.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLICON3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about galvanized?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no...same as aluminized answer above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLICON3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of welds are these? </TD></TR></TABLE>
They look like mig to me, but it's kinda far away.
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