Is This Head Fixable?
I just finished building my ls/vtec last weekend. I have been breaking in the head because it was port and polished and I installed omni-power valve, valve springs, retainers. The motor had 31 miles on it when it just died. I was at about 4000-4500 rpms when it happened. I went home took the head off and found this



I just want to know if it is worth my time to go to a machine shop and see if they can fix it. If not im gonna take out the good parts and buy something new.



I just want to know if it is worth my time to go to a machine shop and see if they can fix it. If not im gonna take out the good parts and buy something new.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ed’s Racing Heads »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's repairable but not worth the money to fix imo.You can get a new head for probably about the same to fix this one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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I never clyed the motor like i should have. I'm not sure but the valve may have hit the piston. I was putting the head on my ls block and I used a stock headgasket and didn't have the head milled. The valve may have hit the piston and broke off, I'll have to look closer tommorrow.
I talked to a friend that said he knows of a place near buy that repairs heads like this and said it should be less than 500. I don't plan to buy another head since I had so much money into this one and I've been working on it for a very long time.
I wish I wasn't so impatient and would have checked everything first. I do know know that I turned one of the cams while they were in and the motor was at TDC and I didn't hear or feel anything hitting, but I don't know, the ls valve reliefs are pretty small.
The thing that I found weird is that the head of the valve just fell off. One valve is bent slightly but the other looked like it just fell off. Nuthin against omni power, I'm just mad at myself.
I talked to a friend that said he knows of a place near buy that repairs heads like this and said it should be less than 500. I don't plan to buy another head since I had so much money into this one and I've been working on it for a very long time.
I wish I wasn't so impatient and would have checked everything first. I do know know that I turned one of the cams while they were in and the motor was at TDC and I didn't hear or feel anything hitting, but I don't know, the ls valve reliefs are pretty small.
The thing that I found weird is that the head of the valve just fell off. One valve is bent slightly but the other looked like it just fell off. Nuthin against omni power, I'm just mad at myself.
Did you check the motor to see if the timing belt was correct before pulling the head off? I'm guessing that the tensioner wasn't torqued to spec, rattled loose and caused it to jump a tooth or three.
Thanks guys, if its not repairable I may just get a b16 head off a friend since I still have 14 good omni valves, all the retainers and valve springs. I would like another GSR head since I have a BLOX intake manifold and some buddy club spec IV's. That sounded really mean.
I know that the timing belt didn't jump a tooth because I had troubles with it at first but then added washers to the tensioner bolt to get it tight and checked the timing belt very closley. Every time I started it I would make sure it was tight. I made sure it was perfect because it took me awhile to make it stay really tight.
I think it was my stupidity of not claying the motor and not checking my valve reliefs. I just hope it can be fixed or it is $1200 down the drain.
I know that the timing belt didn't jump a tooth because I had troubles with it at first but then added washers to the tensioner bolt to get it tight and checked the timing belt very closley. Every time I started it I would make sure it was tight. I made sure it was perfect because it took me awhile to make it stay really tight.
I think it was my stupidity of not claying the motor and not checking my valve reliefs. I just hope it can be fixed or it is $1200 down the drain.
I hate to see things like this but the Ls/vtec and crvtec you have to always check the piston to valve clearance. It can be fixed but the price is more than another head because the valve guides might me jacked up as well but its you. Next time check it and opt for a toda or Greddy timing belt they offer a tighter fit and supposedly 250 times stronger than a regular belt
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmintegraxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the ls valve reliefs are pretty small.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The problem with your setup is a very simple one. This is a perfect example of why in my opinion LS/VTEC's must use some type of VTEC piston. The LS valve reliefs are just too small to accomodate vtec valves. Especially when using ITR or bigger cams. It is really sad to see, but it sounds like your taking it well. I am curious were the BC4's in the motor when it blew? If they were, that will have also contributed to the smacked valves. They would have opened up the valves alot more than stock B16 cams, which reduced your piston to valve clearance. Like you said clay your next motor
, and don't stress about this too much. Worst case, you'll learn from this mistake. Good luck.
The problem with your setup is a very simple one. This is a perfect example of why in my opinion LS/VTEC's must use some type of VTEC piston. The LS valve reliefs are just too small to accomodate vtec valves. Especially when using ITR or bigger cams. It is really sad to see, but it sounds like your taking it well. I am curious were the BC4's in the motor when it blew? If they were, that will have also contributed to the smacked valves. They would have opened up the valves alot more than stock B16 cams, which reduced your piston to valve clearance. Like you said clay your next motor
, and don't stress about this too much. Worst case, you'll learn from this mistake. Good luck.
I say Fix it!! My brothers type s head was worse than that when he blew his up and it only cost $200 to install 4 new valve seats and 2 new valve guides and some welding and porting to fix the chamber. Heck, if you dont want to fix it, sell it to me and i'll have the machine shop i go to fix it. PM me if you want to sell it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmintegraxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I know that the timing belt didn't jump a tooth because I had troubles with it at first but then added washers to the tensioner bolt to get it tight and checked the timing belt very closley. Every time I started it I would make sure it was tight. I made sure it was perfect because it took me awhile to make it stay really tight.
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You spent all that money on the head, and went cheap, and used a old tensioner?
How do your pistons look? Not like mine hopefully..
I know that the timing belt didn't jump a tooth because I had troubles with it at first but then added washers to the tensioner bolt to get it tight and checked the timing belt very closley. Every time I started it I would make sure it was tight. I made sure it was perfect because it took me awhile to make it stay really tight.
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You spent all that money on the head, and went cheap, and used a old tensioner?
How do your pistons look? Not like mine hopefully..
I used a brand new tensioner but the stock bolt was too long or something because it would bottom out and not tighten all the way. I would let the car idle and it would slowly loosen up. So i added washers and that way i could get the tensioner bolt tighter and it worked.
And my piston looked just like that. I planned on getting new pistons anyway, but not like this.
And my piston looked just like that. I planned on getting new pistons anyway, but not like this.



