b18c1 leaking oil in front passenger side corner of engine near engine stamp 3rd headgasket
My car was leaking oil from the front right corner where you can see the piece of metal tab of the headgasket. There is oil on where the block meets the tranny but its clean oil not dirty at all. There is only oil where the engine stamp is and on that metal tab of the headgasket. I have good compression and motor feels strong as ****. Ran 13.5 just how it is right now. I replaced headgasket without milling it and its still leaking oil from the same corner. I'm about to pull the head for the 3rd time and have head milled and replace headgasket again. Anyone have any suggestions. Thanks in advance
Josh
Josh
I'd like to know too. I have the EXACT same problem. it's not coming from the cam seal either. I noticed it before I put my car in storage for the winter, and haven't had a chance to check it out yet. My oem headgasket has maybe 10k on it too. Do you have a lot of headwork? This is the only thing that I can contribue to my problem...
The head is port and polished. Supertech valves, springs, and retainers. Stock gsr headgasket.
Josh
Josh
How about the gaskets for the VTEC spool valve? I replaced them for an oil leak that looked just like you're describing.
1 - gasket where the VTEC solenoid bolts to the spool valve.
2 - O-ring where the VTEC oil pressure switch screws into the spool valve.
3 - gasket where the entire spool valve bolts against the head.
3a - sometimes there's a screen in #3, sometimes the screen is separate.
I also changed the cam plug & distributor O-ring at the same time, but YMMV...
1 - gasket where the VTEC solenoid bolts to the spool valve.
2 - O-ring where the VTEC oil pressure switch screws into the spool valve.
3 - gasket where the entire spool valve bolts against the head.
3a - sometimes there's a screen in #3, sometimes the screen is separate.
I also changed the cam plug & distributor O-ring at the same time, but YMMV...
The head is port and polished. Supertech valves, springs, and retainers. Stock gsr headgasket.
Josh
Josh
Its a brand new dizzy from distributor king so I doubt its that. I just installed a new cam seal and used some hondabond when i was installing it. All that is left is vtec silnoid. I just ordered it from honda dealer cost me 23 dollars and 11 dollars for shipping. WTF. Anyways if this doesnt fix it. I guess it will be time to mill the head.
Josh
Modified by deftones0817 at 1:31 PM 2/15/2005
Josh
Modified by deftones0817 at 1:31 PM 2/15/2005
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i'd say any time you're having the head off, you should be checking to make sure that the block AND head are both square. it may be the block that is not square, in which case milling the head will only serve to waste time and money. if it turns out not to be the VTEC solenoid, take the head off and check head and block for perfect flatness and mill to correct.
what do you mean by head is not square. 2 questions also.
1) I am using arp head bolts. Would this cause this issue?
2) I am not using the head dowels could this be causing my problem? Bump for more answer.
Josh
1) I am using arp head bolts. Would this cause this issue?
2) I am not using the head dowels could this be causing my problem? Bump for more answer.
Josh
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swags04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cam seal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
bingo!
bingo!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deftones0817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean by head is not square. 2 questions also.
1) I am using arp head bolts. Would this cause this issue?
2) I am not using the head dowels could this be causing my problem? Bump for more answer.
Josh</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow90hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">square as in meaning the head and the block at square therefore causing a gap
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, "square" meaning "not perfectly flat." if the head and block aren't almost exactly flat (or matching each other's curvature - won't really happen after original head gasket it gone), you'll have head gasket problems until you fix it.
also, if you aren't following ARP's recommendations for the torquing of their bolts, that could cause an issue, and improper torquing might also cause the head and/or block to go out of square. in other words, if you had a problem with torquing and not with squareness of head and block, you may now have a problem with squareness.
1) I am using arp head bolts. Would this cause this issue?
2) I am not using the head dowels could this be causing my problem? Bump for more answer.
Josh</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow90hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">square as in meaning the head and the block at square therefore causing a gap
</TD></TR></TABLE>yes, "square" meaning "not perfectly flat." if the head and block aren't almost exactly flat (or matching each other's curvature - won't really happen after original head gasket it gone), you'll have head gasket problems until you fix it.
also, if you aren't following ARP's recommendations for the torquing of their bolts, that could cause an issue, and improper torquing might also cause the head and/or block to go out of square. in other words, if you had a problem with torquing and not with squareness of head and block, you may now have a problem with squareness.
I really doubt it is your headgasket. Change all those gaskets that JimBlake suggested. There a few in there and they really blow some oil if they aren't replaced. When I just got my GSR the whole side and front of the block had a good 1/8" of sludge on it. If your headgasket were leaking I would think you would be leaking coolant as well as oil. I haven't looked at a VTEC block before with the head off but I'm assuming it is just a little oil port that goes up into the head to supply the oil for the VTEC solenoid. I doubt that small port is leaking that oil on you.
I'm starting to believe my problem is to do with the dowel pins. The car didnt leak for like 3 days but i never got on it. The first time I actually got on the car after changing the headgasket it started leaking. I'm going to do everything suggested though just to be on the safe side.
Josh
Josh
I would definitely recommend installing the dowel pins. The head bolts/studs are there to clamp the head to the block. They do not fit exactly in the holes, there is some minor amount of play. The pins, on the other hand, serve to provide a very tight and stable position of the head. There could be some slight misalignment between the oil passages in your block, the holes in the gasket, and the passages in the head. Even if this is not the source of the problem, it would be a good idea to put them in anyway.
just figured out what was wrong with mine...
the vtec seal was missing and leaking and sneaking through the cracks and making it look like the headgasket was bad but it's not. so a new vtec seal solved it...I don't think it's your headgasket at all...
the vtec seal was missing and leaking and sneaking through the cracks and making it look like the headgasket was bad but it's not. so a new vtec seal solved it...I don't think it's your headgasket at all...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF-EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just figured out what was wrong with mine...
the vtec seal was missing and leaking and sneaking through the cracks and making it look like the headgasket was bad but it's not. so a new vtec seal solved it...I don't think it's your headgasket at all...</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's good to hear, that gives me hope that I don't have to tear off my head.
the vtec seal was missing and leaking and sneaking through the cracks and making it look like the headgasket was bad but it's not. so a new vtec seal solved it...I don't think it's your headgasket at all...</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's good to hear, that gives me hope that I don't have to tear off my head.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about the gaskets for the VTEC spool valve? I replaced them for an oil leak that looked just like you're describing.
1 - gasket where the VTEC solenoid bolts to the spool valve.
2 - O-ring where the VTEC oil pressure switch screws into the spool valve.
3 - gasket where the entire spool valve bolts against the head.
3a - sometimes there's a screen in #3, sometimes the screen is separate.
I also changed the cam plug & distributor O-ring at the same time, but YMMV...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeap, that was my problem with oil leaking
1 - gasket where the VTEC solenoid bolts to the spool valve.
2 - O-ring where the VTEC oil pressure switch screws into the spool valve.
3 - gasket where the entire spool valve bolts against the head.
3a - sometimes there's a screen in #3, sometimes the screen is separate.
I also changed the cam plug & distributor O-ring at the same time, but YMMV...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeap, that was my problem with oil leaking
I know I'm kind of late to this one, but I am having the same problem. The dowel pins are those metal cylinders that are about an inch long and maybe a half inch in diameter right. the pieces used to line the head up to the block?
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