How Hard Is It To Paint A Car?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 0
From: DC Metro
How Hard Is It To Paint A Car?
Okay, i am thinking of painting my ride. It is up for a sprayin'
I have a garage and a family friend is lending me a gun, detail gun and sanders. I already have a nice compressor. I have airbrushed before with great results, figured this was just on a larger scale.
Any painters want to give me pointers.
What type of primer to use, any certain brand a filler to fix all the dimples. Any trix when i spray.....I really want to try to do this my self.
I have a garage and a family friend is lending me a gun, detail gun and sanders. I already have a nice compressor. I have airbrushed before with great results, figured this was just on a larger scale.
Any painters want to give me pointers.
What type of primer to use, any certain brand a filler to fix all the dimples. Any trix when i spray.....I really want to try to do this my self.
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 0
From: ARE YOU EXPERIENCED, PURPLE HAZE, STONE FREE
Re: How Hard Is It To Paint A Car? (caspers hatch)
Themost important part of painting is preparing the surface....i wouls suggest getting a book called "How to paint you own car" this book can be bought at Barnes and nobles. This will guarantee the best results! if you need any help pm me. good luck!! you'll have so much fun 
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,506
Likes: 0
From: ATL to SAV to ORL, USA
My bro is in school learning how to paint / body work. I'll get him to post some tips for you when he gets up.....
Go >>HERE<< to see pics of the process from beginning to end! About 20-25 pics so may take a bit to load!
Go >>HERE<< to see pics of the process from beginning to end! About 20-25 pics so may take a bit to load!
Junior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: (Hybrid93Hatch)
Here is a quick write up i did a while back for someone
If you have any questions feel free to IM me and ask i will answer all of them
1. Check the car over for dings and dents and mark them with a permanent marker.
2. Wash the car off with a degreaser using a scotch brite pad.
3. Where each of the dents you marked were you need to rough up the paint with 120 grit sand paper.
4. Then use a body filler (bondo ) and fill in the dent and make sure to overlap the edges.
5. Once the body filler is dry start sanding it down with 80 grit on a sanding block that overlaps the edges of the body filler.
6. Then when the body filler is almost all the way sanded down switch to 180 and take it down almost the rest of the way.
7. Then when it is almost totally smooth switch to 320 grit for the final sanding of it.
8. Once it is all smoothed out you need to use a filler primer on it you may need to do the whole car or just spot priming depending on how many dents there are you need to do 3 coats of the filler primer.
9. Once the primer is dry then you sand it down with 500 grit wet sand paper and get it perfectly smooth.
10. After you are done sanding that down and are satisfied with the body work then you should be ready to paint.
11. So you take it in the booth get it all taped off.
12. Use a wax and grease remover on it.
13. Rub over the car twice with a tack rag then it is ready to paint.
14. Spray the sealer primer (you want to put it on nice and wet) the wait 30-45 min.
15. Then you spray the color (the improtant part with the color is not to get the whole car covered it one coat but to do a few medium coats and get it even) wait 10-15 minutes between coats.
16. Let the color dry for about 30 min.
17. Then you spray the clear (you want it to go on as wet as you can without gettin runs).
If you have any questions feel free to IM me and ask i will answer all of them
1. Check the car over for dings and dents and mark them with a permanent marker.
2. Wash the car off with a degreaser using a scotch brite pad.
3. Where each of the dents you marked were you need to rough up the paint with 120 grit sand paper.
4. Then use a body filler (bondo ) and fill in the dent and make sure to overlap the edges.
5. Once the body filler is dry start sanding it down with 80 grit on a sanding block that overlaps the edges of the body filler.
6. Then when the body filler is almost all the way sanded down switch to 180 and take it down almost the rest of the way.
7. Then when it is almost totally smooth switch to 320 grit for the final sanding of it.
8. Once it is all smoothed out you need to use a filler primer on it you may need to do the whole car or just spot priming depending on how many dents there are you need to do 3 coats of the filler primer.
9. Once the primer is dry then you sand it down with 500 grit wet sand paper and get it perfectly smooth.
10. After you are done sanding that down and are satisfied with the body work then you should be ready to paint.
11. So you take it in the booth get it all taped off.
12. Use a wax and grease remover on it.
13. Rub over the car twice with a tack rag then it is ready to paint.
14. Spray the sealer primer (you want to put it on nice and wet) the wait 30-45 min.
15. Then you spray the color (the improtant part with the color is not to get the whole car covered it one coat but to do a few medium coats and get it even) wait 10-15 minutes between coats.
16. Let the color dry for about 30 min.
17. Then you spray the clear (you want it to go on as wet as you can without gettin runs).
Trending Topics
Should be fun! I will post pics as i work on it!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 0
From: DC Metro
Re: (caspers hatch)
Okay. Another question.
Once dings are filled, pimer is on.........do i wet sand it with the 500 now...?
Also how about wet sanding in between coats for high gloss finish?
Once dings are filled, pimer is on.........do i wet sand it with the 500 now...?
Also how about wet sanding in between coats for high gloss finish?
Banned
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,798
Likes: 0
From: it was a funny angle
Re: (Hybrid93Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all*motor*d16z6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a quick write up i did a while back for someone
If you have any questions feel free to IM me and ask i will answer all of them
1. Check the car over for dings and dents and mark them with a permanent marker.
2. Wash the car off with a degreaser using a scotch brite pad.
3. Where each of the dents you marked were you need to rough up the paint with 120 grit sand paper.
4. Then use a body filler (bondo ) and fill in the dent and make sure to overlap the edges.
5. Once the body filler is dry start sanding it down with 80 grit on a sanding block that overlaps the edges of the body filler.
6. Then when the body filler is almost all the way sanded down switch to 180 and take it down almost the rest of the way.
7. Then when it is almost totally smooth switch to 320 grit for the final sanding of it.
8. Once it is all smoothed out you need to use a filler primer on it you may need to do the whole car or just spot priming depending on how many dents there are you need to do 3 coats of the filler primer.
9. Once the primer is dry then you sand it down with 500 grit wet sand paper and get it perfectly smooth.
10. After you are done sanding that down and are satisfied with the body work then you should be ready to paint.
11. So you take it in the booth get it all taped off.
12. Use a wax and grease remover on it.
13. Rub over the car twice with a tack rag then it is ready to paint.
14. Spray the sealer primer (you want to put it on nice and wet) the wait 30-45 min.
15. Then you spray the color (the improtant part with the color is not to get the whole car covered it one coat but to do a few medium coats and get it even) wait 10-15 minutes between coats.
16. Let the color dry for about 30 min.
17. Then you spray the clear (you want it to go on as wet as you can without gettin runs).</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only thing i have to add is to be patient while spraying the base, at first if the paint looks thing, be patient and let the paint flash, the metallic will come out and look full in a few minutes, you want to hold the air tip about 8-9 inches away from the surface and hold it perpindicular. Also I would use body filler instead of bondo.
If you have any questions feel free to IM me and ask i will answer all of them
1. Check the car over for dings and dents and mark them with a permanent marker.
2. Wash the car off with a degreaser using a scotch brite pad.
3. Where each of the dents you marked were you need to rough up the paint with 120 grit sand paper.
4. Then use a body filler (bondo ) and fill in the dent and make sure to overlap the edges.
5. Once the body filler is dry start sanding it down with 80 grit on a sanding block that overlaps the edges of the body filler.
6. Then when the body filler is almost all the way sanded down switch to 180 and take it down almost the rest of the way.
7. Then when it is almost totally smooth switch to 320 grit for the final sanding of it.
8. Once it is all smoothed out you need to use a filler primer on it you may need to do the whole car or just spot priming depending on how many dents there are you need to do 3 coats of the filler primer.
9. Once the primer is dry then you sand it down with 500 grit wet sand paper and get it perfectly smooth.
10. After you are done sanding that down and are satisfied with the body work then you should be ready to paint.
11. So you take it in the booth get it all taped off.
12. Use a wax and grease remover on it.
13. Rub over the car twice with a tack rag then it is ready to paint.
14. Spray the sealer primer (you want to put it on nice and wet) the wait 30-45 min.
15. Then you spray the color (the improtant part with the color is not to get the whole car covered it one coat but to do a few medium coats and get it even) wait 10-15 minutes between coats.
16. Let the color dry for about 30 min.
17. Then you spray the clear (you want it to go on as wet as you can without gettin runs).</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only thing i have to add is to be patient while spraying the base, at first if the paint looks thing, be patient and let the paint flash, the metallic will come out and look full in a few minutes, you want to hold the air tip about 8-9 inches away from the surface and hold it perpindicular. Also I would use body filler instead of bondo.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: LaGrange, OH, U.S
Preping the car like everyone said is definitly the hardest and most time consuming thing going along with painting a car....it matters the most too...take your time with that and if you want it to come out good pull the windows dont "tape" them off...it just comes out much better if you pull them.....good luck post pics after its all done....
Banned
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,798
Likes: 0
From: it was a funny angle
Re: (caspers hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhdSiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. yes 500 grit wet
2. 1200-1500 grit wet</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt wetsand between coats unless you see dirt or lint.
2. 1200-1500 grit wet</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt wetsand between coats unless you see dirt or lint.
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: VA, USA
Re: (JakeIsCool)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JakeIsCool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wouldnt wetsand between coats unless you see dirt or lint.</TD></TR></TABLE>
or fisheyes...or you are going for a super perfect shine paint job...
like everyone said though, if you take your time with the prep and you know how to spray correctly you should have a nice outcome
I wouldnt wetsand between coats unless you see dirt or lint.</TD></TR></TABLE>
or fisheyes...or you are going for a super perfect shine paint job...
like everyone said though, if you take your time with the prep and you know how to spray correctly you should have a nice outcome
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: VA, USA
Re: (fqnjdmboy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fqnjdmboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and if you want it to come out good pull the windows dont "tape" them off...it just comes out much better if you pull them..</TD></TR></TABLE>
removing the front windows is not necessary at all...removing the trim piece under it is a good idea though
removing the front windows is not necessary at all...removing the trim piece under it is a good idea though
Junior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: (2hatchs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2hatchs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not tryin to start nothin but bondo is a body filler !!!!!! 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no ****
I forgot to add that if you are painting metalic the way i found was best so that the metalic comes out even do light coats and do the first coat going diagonal like / then the second coat diagonal the oposite way \ then the final coat horizonal -- it has always come out beautiful doing it like that but it is only for metalics cause if you don't do it like that and it is one of your first metalic jobs it will look spotty in the light
</TD></TR></TABLE>no ****
I forgot to add that if you are painting metalic the way i found was best so that the metalic comes out even do light coats and do the first coat going diagonal like / then the second coat diagonal the oposite way \ then the final coat horizonal -- it has always come out beautiful doing it like that but it is only for metalics cause if you don't do it like that and it is one of your first metalic jobs it will look spotty in the light
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,100
Likes: 0
From: Stockton, CA. 209
Re: How Hard Is It To Paint A Car? (JakeIsCool)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JakeIsCool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would use a more modern body filler IE not bondo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
buy it at an automotive paint shop , not pepboys or kragen , etc...
buy it at an automotive paint shop , not pepboys or kragen , etc...
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 0
From: DC Metro
Re: How Hard Is It To Paint A Car? (JonnnyDanger)
I am going to buy everything from mattos. Its an automotive paint store we have, hopefully here (just moved).
I am using a mettalic finish..Vogue Silver Metallic
I have alot of experiance with cans I know its not the same but.....i know how not to let it run 
I am using a mettalic finish..Vogue Silver Metallic
I have alot of experiance with cans
I know its not the same but.....i know how not to let it run
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, AL, US
Re: How Hard Is It To Paint A Car? (JakeIsCool)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JakeIsCool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would use a more modern body filler IE not bondo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i sell all differant grades of "body filler" (and have used every one of them) and they are still called bondo. if you dont use bondo all the time dont buy one that cost about 30 bucks a gallon (rage gold) you will not be able to tell a diff between it and a cheap one. the ones at pepboys ect. may be made by BONDO CORP. and it will say BONDO on the can but that doesnt mean its not a good "body filler". like ive said i have used some that cost 30 bucks a gallon and some that cost 8 bucks a gallon and i can tell a differance because i use it alot. but if you dont dont spend the extra money. use the extra for some spot putty (another "body filler") it will come in handy.
i sell all differant grades of "body filler" (and have used every one of them) and they are still called bondo. if you dont use bondo all the time dont buy one that cost about 30 bucks a gallon (rage gold) you will not be able to tell a diff between it and a cheap one. the ones at pepboys ect. may be made by BONDO CORP. and it will say BONDO on the can but that doesnt mean its not a good "body filler". like ive said i have used some that cost 30 bucks a gallon and some that cost 8 bucks a gallon and i can tell a differance because i use it alot. but if you dont dont spend the extra money. use the extra for some spot putty (another "body filler") it will come in handy.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 0
From: DC Metro
Re: How Hard Is It To Paint A Car? (2hatchs)
"Spot Putty" Is this what i should use for the little "hail" like dings i have on the roof?
I have a butt-load (15-20) of these tiny little dings, bondo seems like a big pain for such little dimples. I really have nothing bigger than those spots on the whole shell.
I have a butt-load (15-20) of these tiny little dings, bondo seems like a big pain for such little dimples. I really have nothing bigger than those spots on the whole shell.