Tranny swap (Auto -->Manual) Please read before flaming =)
I know there are 200 threads about this very same thing, but while filtering, i was unable to find a distinct answer.
What exact mounts do I need to swap an auto tranny to a manual tranny in a 95 LS Teg? I was under the impression you used the passenger side and the front tranny stabilizer mount.
Also, if the rear mount is necessary, is the bracket the same or will that need to be replaced as well?
What exact mounts do I need to swap an auto tranny to a manual tranny in a 95 LS Teg? I was under the impression you used the passenger side and the front tranny stabilizer mount.
Also, if the rear mount is necessary, is the bracket the same or will that need to be replaced as well?
hmmn, i have heard from several people that you can use the oem mount. for the top passenger mount.
I am just curious if the rear mount is mutualy used for both setups.
I am just curious if the rear mount is mutualy used for both setups.
Every mount is the same except for the upper transmission mount.
That mount is different between an automatic and a 5-speed. The mount is different, as well as the placement of the mount "bracket" on the frame itself.
You have 3 options:
1. Fabricate another mount that attaches to the motor and the exisiting bracket on the automatic frame.
2. Buy one (I believe HASport has one). When I did mine, there were no companies that made it yet.
3. Cut the existing automatic mount bracket from it's existing location and reweld it to the location of the 5-speed one.
That mount is different between an automatic and a 5-speed. The mount is different, as well as the placement of the mount "bracket" on the frame itself.
You have 3 options:
1. Fabricate another mount that attaches to the motor and the exisiting bracket on the automatic frame.
2. Buy one (I believe HASport has one). When I did mine, there were no companies that made it yet.
3. Cut the existing automatic mount bracket from it's existing location and reweld it to the location of the 5-speed one.
i just did this a month or so ago...
If you know someone who you trust welding, get the manaual top mount AND the sheetmetal coupling it fits into. The sheetmetal peice has to be welded onto the frame and the auto one has to be cut off. If not, get a billet relocation mount, and make sure you get one specifically for a DC, the one for an EG wont work. I found that out the hardway.
For the back mount, you need to get the manual "T" bracket, its the part that goes in between the transmision and the mount. The mount itself, that is on the subframe, is the same between autos and manauals on DC's. The only difference is the t bracket, and its only different b/c the bolt holes for the tranny are a little lower.
THe tranny stabalizer mount from an auto will NOT work, you have to have one for a manual..
-theres some extra **** no one told me about so ill pass it on here..
Only a few of the tranny to engine bolts from the auto work, i cant remember wich ones. So, just get new bolts, this includes starter bolts.
D series flywheel to crank bolts arent long enough, must have them from a B series.. this added an extra 50 bucks to the project b/c i couldnt find anyone with the b series bolts other then the dealership.
the holes for the bracket where the hard clutch line goes into the rubber clutch line are not drilled on the frame rail, its a lot easier to drill them with the tranny out..
the holes under the car where the 2 bolts go in to hold up the shifter/ linkage arent drilled.
When i did mine, i got a manual pedal cluster for the brake and gas. To keep from having to change the throttle cable, i swapped my auto gas pedal onto the manual pedal cluster b/c the ends of the cable are different and so are the ends of the pedal.
I had been told that all i had to do was connect the two largest wires in the harness going into the auto shifter together to start the car and get my key out. Well, i still couldnt get my key out of the ignition after that (but I could start my car). So, i took off my lower steering column cover and found the little plunger dealie that locks the ignition. Its at the end of the cylinder (the opposite end where the key goes in) and its got a small wire plug going into it and is held on by one screw (could be a bolt, dont remeber). Anyway, i disconnected the wires and took it off. Everythings ducky now and works the way it should.
Anyway, most of the other stuff is pretty well documented and straight forward.. The swap took some time, but in the end i feel it was worth it. With everything you do to your car yourself, you feel a little more accomplished.
If you know someone who you trust welding, get the manaual top mount AND the sheetmetal coupling it fits into. The sheetmetal peice has to be welded onto the frame and the auto one has to be cut off. If not, get a billet relocation mount, and make sure you get one specifically for a DC, the one for an EG wont work. I found that out the hardway.
For the back mount, you need to get the manual "T" bracket, its the part that goes in between the transmision and the mount. The mount itself, that is on the subframe, is the same between autos and manauals on DC's. The only difference is the t bracket, and its only different b/c the bolt holes for the tranny are a little lower.
THe tranny stabalizer mount from an auto will NOT work, you have to have one for a manual..
-theres some extra **** no one told me about so ill pass it on here..
Only a few of the tranny to engine bolts from the auto work, i cant remember wich ones. So, just get new bolts, this includes starter bolts.
D series flywheel to crank bolts arent long enough, must have them from a B series.. this added an extra 50 bucks to the project b/c i couldnt find anyone with the b series bolts other then the dealership.
the holes for the bracket where the hard clutch line goes into the rubber clutch line are not drilled on the frame rail, its a lot easier to drill them with the tranny out..
the holes under the car where the 2 bolts go in to hold up the shifter/ linkage arent drilled.
When i did mine, i got a manual pedal cluster for the brake and gas. To keep from having to change the throttle cable, i swapped my auto gas pedal onto the manual pedal cluster b/c the ends of the cable are different and so are the ends of the pedal.
I had been told that all i had to do was connect the two largest wires in the harness going into the auto shifter together to start the car and get my key out. Well, i still couldnt get my key out of the ignition after that (but I could start my car). So, i took off my lower steering column cover and found the little plunger dealie that locks the ignition. Its at the end of the cylinder (the opposite end where the key goes in) and its got a small wire plug going into it and is held on by one screw (could be a bolt, dont remeber). Anyway, i disconnected the wires and took it off. Everythings ducky now and works the way it should.
Anyway, most of the other stuff is pretty well documented and straight forward.. The swap took some time, but in the end i feel it was worth it. With everything you do to your car yourself, you feel a little more accomplished.
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it seems liek you have all the right ideas..I am just curious, you mentioned D series bolts..why?
Did you do the swap in a civic or a teg? I would imagine a difference in the civic and the teg.
Did you do the swap in a civic or a teg? I would imagine a difference in the civic and the teg.
i have been searching and reading all of these posts. they are very helpful. ive picked up a lot of tips. but one thing .... is there an actual start to finish how-to and/or parts list? if anything the parts list. ive picked up parts from 10billion threads, but i get confused as to a solid list should consist of.
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kd97accord
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Apr 29, 2010 05:06 PM




