I have a drag gen iii on my type R with stock internals. Due to the high compression, I'm scared of detonation so I'm contemplating to either remove the turbo completely or fully rebuild the engine. How much would it cost if i paid a shop to remove my drag gen iii kit and reinstall my stock header and intake? Can anyone also provide me with an approximate price range to full rebuild a motor with quality rods, pistons, retainers, etc? Thanks

*Also, if someone could help me post this in the forced induction section, that would be nice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WickedR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a drag gen iii on my type R with stock internals. Due to the high compression, I'm scared of detonation so I'm contemplating to either remove the turbo completely or fully rebuild the engine. How much would it cost if i paid a shop to remove my drag gen iii kit and reinstall my stock header and intake? Can anyone also provide me with an approximate price range to full rebuild a motor with quality rods, pistons, retainers, etc? Thanks

*Also, if someone could help me post this in the forced induction section, that would be nice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

All that stuff you wrote above are very GENERAL questions. "How much would it cost if you paid a shop?" Who knows. When I develope my telepathy skills I'll let you know. Until then it would be best if you called around to find out considering everyone and their mother is going to charge relatively different rates.

"Can anyone also provide you with an approximate price range to fully rebuild your motor?" I'm quite sure there are many people who can provide you with the information. The thing is, for me, I have no idea what you want, what your doing with the car, and what your budget is. Best thing to do is be a little bit more specific with your questions if you want specific answers I sincerely mean all this in a nice way too

Back to the turbo kit, if you have all the parts, you can do it yourself (slowly) in a weekend.

For quality parts...look to spend at a starting price of around a grand and it all exponentially goes up from there.

Good luck.

Aloha,
Brandon

 

Not trying to be an *** but if you have to pay a shop to take your turbo off and replace your stock header you definitely don't need a turbo ITR IMO.

That being said if you are worried about detonation this should take care of it:


Have the car tuned conservatively with alcohol injection and detonation should be the last thing you'll ever worry about.

 

interesting....

 

I'm guessing you bought your R not too long ago and that it was turbo'ed already. Re-installing all that stuff isn't too hard man. Get some tools, jack + stands and have fun

 

Call Earl Laskey...and don't **** up my R.

 

did you buy the R aleady boosted? How long has it been boosted if you bought it that way...

 

Drive it till it pops, then rebuild it for more boost.

 

Just get it tuned conservatively and treat her right... it'll last a long LONG time then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grin-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drive it till it pops, then rebuild it for more boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess thats an option if you have deep pockets.....lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-1303 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call Earl Laskey...and don't **** up my R. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Former Owner?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just get it tuned conservatively and treat her right... it'll last a long LONG time then. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Fo' real. Boosting a stock internal'd R isn't the problem, it's over boosting it and not having it properly tuned that'll kill it. Run like 5 pounds of boost and have it tuned conservatively.

&lt;----who loves thinking he knows what he's talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not trying to be an *** but if you have to pay a shop to take your turbo off and replace your stock header you definitely don't need a turbo ITR IMO.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

yes, that is the former owner. The car is tuned by st00pid (according to former owner) and is being managed by a hondata s200b. I'm running it at 4.5 pounds. I guess I have nothing to worry about, but I plan to get a new head gasket and lower compression pistons by summer. Maybe even some connecting rods.

 

So I guess you're keeping the turbo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01ITR#173DC2ning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess thats an option if you have deep pockets.....lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it's the only option for turbo owners, regardless. Ask Jordo, Haleiwa-Brando, etc. Drive it until it pops, rebuild, lather rinse repeat.

I'm not sure I'd curse someone with a turbo honda, unless they could afford a new motor on any given day.

-Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PY Type R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, that is the former owner. The car is tuned by st00pid (according to former owner) and is being managed by a hondata s200b. I'm running it at 4.5 pounds. I guess I have nothing to worry about, but I plan to get a new head gasket and lower compression pistons by summer. Maybe even some connecting rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't bother opening the motor, especially if it's still running.

I run 10 PSI, usually 8 PSI on the track (HPDE, etc.). Dynoed 295 WHP. The head has never been off of the car. (Greddy kits seem to take more boost to make power though). If you're under 300 WHP, it's 'relatively' safe with the stock compression.

Save your money. If it's tuned well, you got no worries.

-Crhis

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> (Greddy kits seem to take more boost to make power though). </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's that poop *** manifold...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's that poop *** manifold... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, yeah, but it doesn't crack and makes power. Other than that, it is a poop *** log manifold.

-Chris

 

leave the turbo...if i still had my R, it would surely be boosted. the key is TUNING...make sure everything is done properly and just drive..nothing to worry about ...enjoy it...u worry too much

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hYpE-R-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">leave the turbo...if i still had my R, it would surely be boosted. the key is TUNING...make sure everything is done properly and just drive..nothing to worry about ...enjoy it...u worry too much</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what i would do. Btw, what type of management are you running on?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NEL1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats what i would do. Btw, what type of management are you running on? </TD></TR></TABLE>

he said hondata. Keep the turbo, and its not hard to put all that stuff back on. Just read up and do your homework.

 

Yeah and plus you would have a better understanding of your car if you did do it yourself. Later on, you wouldnt need to depend on a shop to do those certain work.