I've been having cold start idle issues where I have to hold the gas until it warms up and then idle holds. if i dont then it just sputters and dies. i was assuming that it was an FITV problem so i found the thread through searching but i go to look on my intake manifold and i cant find it. it's like just open space under the throttle body. is it possible the previous owner took it out completely?

i have a 1991 crx si with a d16a6. is it possible to buy one and install it on my manifold?

 

Yep he could of took it out, a lot of people that don't live where it gets cold out take them out.

 

so are the coolant lines just rerouted now? i just have to route them through the FITV now?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so are the coolant lines just rerouted now? i just have to route them through the FITV now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably but since I'm not there to see it, I can't say for sure.

 

that little spout looking thing next to the tb ? i always called it a dashpot. usually u dont need them if u want the easy way of fixing it. adjust your throttle cable a bit tighter if possible. what does it normally rev to when warm ?

 

i tightened the cable to allow it to idle without pumping gas when cold. but when its warm it rises to 2-3 which is ridiculously high. u have to choose one trouble or the other.

 

Hm...if it runs crappy when cold I don't think it's the FITV. When I had on the B16 Skunk2 IM there was no room for the FITV and it ran just fine until it got warmed up. Then the idle would be normal, rise up to 1600-1700rpm and drop down to 800rpm again.

What if you check your erh...EAVC? I think it's on the back of the manifold (that's where it is on the B16...)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shirk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hm...if it runs crappy when cold I don't think it's the FITV. When I had on the B16 Skunk2 IM there was no room for the FITV and it ran just fine until it got warmed up. Then the idle would be normal, rise up to 1600-1700rpm and drop down to 800rpm again.

What if you check your erh...EAVC? I think it's on the back of the manifold (that's where it is on the B16...)</TD></TR></TABLE>

The fast idle control valve basically speeds up the idle when the car is cold, the IACV or EACV basically works when the car is warmed up. If you do not have the ficv hooked up the idle will always be low, you know when your car is cold the idle will be around 1400 well with out the ficv , the idle will always idle at basically stock idle.

 

when i turn on the car it will just die unless i press down the gas. i have to hold on the gas for about 20 - 30 seconds before the idle will hold on its own. to cure this i tightened the cable to mimic me holding the gas but i believe it created a vacuum leak because now the idle flucutates up and down when warm. it never used to do this when the throttle was completely closed. do you think that is the source of the idle fluctuation?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i turn on the car it will just die unless i press down the gas. i have to hold on the gas for about 20 - 30 seconds before the idle will hold on its own. to cure this i tightened the cable to mimic me holding the gas but i believe it created a vacuum leak because now the idle flucutates up and down when warm. it never used to do this when the throttle was completely closed. do you think that is the source of the idle fluctuation?</TD></TR></TABLE>

First off fix the vacuum leak.

From my experience, the EACV will only kick in after the car is warmed up, I have left it unplugged while the car was warming up and as soon as it reached a point, the car would lower the idle then die slowly.

Now the fiacv usually occurs during idle, example, you will go and start you car up and your idle will be jumping around. I have seen problems with the fiacv after the car has warmed up though. So if the idle is bouncy I would look into the fiacv, but if your car dies I would look into the EACV, or course fix the vacuum leak though.