alright...heres the story...jus so u know i have a voltage gauge in my car...and yes its accurate...anyway i was on my way home from work and my battery light comes on...i barely make it home cuz its reading like 8 volts and my headlights are barely on and its missing like a bad habit...so i put a new battery in it...everything seems fine

then a few weeks later im driving home from work yet again...and my car goes from about 13 volts...to 10...and then gradually drops yet again...so...i replace the alternator...bought one from honda so its not an autozone crap part...i hook everything back up and even replace the battery cables and add an extra ground from the negative.

now it seems reliable...considering i replaced the main electrical components...but...my car now starts fine...but the battery light stays on until its warm...and my volt meter is reading 10-11 volts...it stays there pretty well no matter whats on:lights, defroster, etc. and i tested the alternator and its only putting out 11 volts...when before i had problems my gauge was reading a good 13.5 volts....what is goin on?!

 

Take it to autozone and see how many amps it is putting out ... is the alternator belt TIGHT? usually you have to have it at like 2k rpm to put out the right amount (or above)

 

ok...well i checked the post of the alternator while it was running...sitll 11 volts..they told me i have to take off the alternator to test it...so hell no...lol...i was driving around everywhere today and didnt have problems until nighttime with my lights on...then my car died within like 3 miles and i had to get it jumped at a local udf...i dunno wut the hells wrong...the alt belt is tight...unless the wires going to the alternator are messed up...but that still wouldnt explain the low output of the alternator...gahhh damm japanese swaps...i am throwin an b18a in there but ill have to use the same harness...i hope the harness isnt f'ed up...until then...any more suggestions would be appreciated

 

check to see if there is any corrosion or bad wires. high resistance from the battery will make the altenator put out less amps.

 

if alt is 11 amps its bad. good alternators only charge 12 or little above. and autozone can test alternators in the car with the same little toy they use to test batterys in the car. dont let them lie to u. but their alternators by duralast carry a life time warranty. i can see how thats crap *sarcasm*

o yeah and dont try and test it without the battery being fully charged or it will be a biased test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garlic jr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if alt is 11 amps its bad. good amps only charge 12 or little above. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

accually a good alt will put out about 13-15 amps

 

well heres the thing...b4 i had any problems...i would turn the key..b4 starting it...look at my volt gauge...and it would read like 12.5....then id start it...and depending on how cold it was differed the voltage it read i guess sometimes it read 13 maybe 13.5 but never below 12...now when i turn the key b4 starting it...it reads like 11 if im lucky...the wires look good...the green harness thing that goes to the alternator looks a lil nasty if i look at it while its disconnected...but still it should still be reading higher voltage than wut it is...i got my alt from HONDA...i cant go wrong...the batterys from autozone (2nd one that i got after returning a faulty one)...but i can tell its not charging so i dunno...cars suck..lol

 

If you own a multimeter check the resistance of the wires.

or do a voltage drop on the alt to battery

 

so wut seems to be the prob...is it a bad alt or the wires r f'ed up

 

u will see clearly if their is carrosion on the wires that does not take a test to determine. make sure their tight, as stupid as that sounds...

if the alt is new i would just assume battery. batters with bad cells dont take a charge for shizzle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchBox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

accually a good alt will put out about 13-15 amps </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you mean VOLTS..
amps= between 50-60..
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...l.htm 23-72 and 23-73

 

he replaced the battery....

the lines runing from the battery could be damaged. thus creating resistance and the altenator doenst charge.
This is because the atenator reads resistance of the battery to determine how much amps to output.

high resistace it doenst put anything out.
low resistance it pumps out more amps to the battery

If i were you i would just take it to the shop. Its probally a electrical problem and need some tests done.

 

ok i got another hypo...everytime i put a new battery in it...it seems to do fine...then after like a day or 2...its bak to the same old crap...lez jus say that my battery isnt exactly stay put very well...and my hatch is tuckin tires so the ride is kinda ruff....u think the battery is jus bouncin around and messin up one of the plates inside or something?....also i bought brand new battery cables and installed an extra ground that wut it had b4...so i wouldnt think those r bad

well ok...4 some reason i cant post anymore in 24 hrs...so im gonna cheat and use this one...i was looking on hondas parts website and the diagram for the battery and stuff...and im not sure if it shows something that would be like a battery case or wut...right now i have a bungee cord holdin it down..lol...any1 have pics of wut it should look like?

another post...umm well im hopin its a fuse...cuz my brake lights suddenly went out a few weeks ago (no wonder i was always almost getting rear ended) and it was jus a fuse...maybe somethin shorted a few of em?

i was talkin to my brother who was sayin to bypass the wiring harness and jus directly connect the alternator to the positive terminal...i dont want a hack job...lol i want my **** done right...would that even work?

LATEST POST oh ****...maybe i did mess it up...cuz the battery i had was messed up when i put the new alternator in...but i didnt know that at the time

Modified by 91b16si at 10:05 PM 2/12/2005


Modified by 91b16si at 10:16 PM 2/12/2005


Modified by 91b16si at 10:21 PM 2/12/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88DXCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you mean VOLTS..
amps= between 50-60..
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...l.htm 23-72 and 23-73</TD></TR></TABLE>


damn, long night.

 

thats could be it, excessive vibrations isnt the best for a battery.

 

Take off you lead wire off the top of the alternator, then check voltage at that post. If its over 12 volts you may have a bad wire going to your battery or fuse box. Open your underhood fuse box, there is a main fuse there located where the 2 power wires screw down. If it looks a little corroded, it may be bad and not letting enough current by to charge your battery, or provide the voltage your looking for( 12v+). If in doubt about the main fuse replace it .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hahagasdcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take off you lead wire off the top of the alternator, then check voltage at that post. If its over 12 volts you may have a bad wire going to your battery or fuse box. Open your underhood fuse box, there is a main fuse there located where the 2 power wires screw down. If it looks a little corroded, it may be bad and not letting enough current by to charge your battery, or provide the voltage your looking for( 12v+). If in doubt about the main fuse replace it .</TD></TR></TABLE>


Now that I think about it, I worked on a automatic CRX once that had a new alternator put in it, and the kid ended up running a 8 guage from the alternator to the + on the battery becuase he said it wouldn't charge correctly.

Think of it like your alternator trying to take a massive **** through a straw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ssl2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Think of it like your alternator trying to take a massive **** through a straw. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LoL i think im gonna put that in my sig.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hahagasdcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LoL i think im gonna put that in my sig.</TD></TR></TABLE>


lol

 

quick and easy way to test if its the alt (doubt it is but might as well) disconnect the positive cable from the battery and if it dies, alt is bad. if it doesent, alt is good.

 

he said altenator is brand new from honda

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garlic jr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quick and easy way to test if its the alt (doubt it is but might as well) disconnect the positive cable from the battery and if it dies, alt is bad. if it doesent, alt is good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That isn't completely true. If the lead from the alternator to the main relay is shitty and not allowing for a full travle of current you're going to be restricted like a ****... like i said....your alternator taking a **** through a straw.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchBox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he said altenator is brand new from honda </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just cuz it's new doesn't mean it is already fucked up. There is the little warning on the alternator that tells the owner to make sure his battery is FULLy charged before he starts the car... Maybe he fubared that **** up.

 

i said quick and easy. quick and easy meaning very basic test. seeing as how hes to lazy to take any of our advice so far

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garlic jr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quick and easy way to test if its the alt (doubt it is but might as well) disconnect the positive cable from the battery and if it dies, alt is bad. if it doesent, alt is good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

His alternator is putting out "10v probably through a burnt *** wire" so the car will still run with the battery disconnected.
He needs to really just check voltage at the alternators output post and check for resistance in his wire.

Easy way to fix if its the wire run an 8gauge wire from alt. to fuse box. Thats also another way to test if its the wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garlic jr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i said quick and easy. quick and easy meaning very basic test. seeing as how hes to lazy to take any of our advice so far</TD></TR></TABLE>

well most people have no idea how to work a multimeter