Mugen ECU
The Mugen Computer does not have changable parameters so it cost the same with any mods you have. The Mugen ECU is about $1250 US (you can convert to aus $) and if you have a 2000-2001 you need to have the OBD1-OBD2 adapter harness, another $250
Mattj
Mattj
Paying $1,250 for a non-programmable Mugen ECU is retarded.
Why?
For $1,250 you could buy a stand-alone such as Hondata or HalTech, and get some use out of it.
The Mugen ECU is not made for YOUR motor - it is pre-programmed like any other ECU. the fact that it's Mugen doesn't mean ish.
Get a stand-alone and TUNE it and you will far surpass what the coockie-cutter Mugen crap will do.
Oh, and a search about the Mugen ECU would have yielded numerous topics, but no biggie
Why?
For $1,250 you could buy a stand-alone such as Hondata or HalTech, and get some use out of it.
The Mugen ECU is not made for YOUR motor - it is pre-programmed like any other ECU. the fact that it's Mugen doesn't mean ish.
Get a stand-alone and TUNE it and you will far surpass what the coockie-cutter Mugen crap will do.
Oh, and a search about the Mugen ECU would have yielded numerous topics, but no biggie
Quote: Paying $1,250 for a non-programmable Mugen ECU is retarded.
Every single person that I know, that has ran a Mugen ecu in their R has wished they'd saved their money. We ran a Mugen ecu on my car (my old 98 R) stock with a GReddy exhaust at the track. Results 14.90 The Mugen ecu was taken off the car and the stock ecu was put back on along with an AEM cold air intake and I ran a 14.42 still using the same street tires and everything. This was on two different occasions to the track on the same exact car.
Case 2 would be a friend of mine with a 2000 R who dyno'd his car with and without the Mugen ecu. He actually LOST hp with the Mugen one. I believe it was a loss of 6 hp. He obviously opted to get rid of the Mugen ecu to some schmuck who would give him top dollar for it.
Sorry I wasn't clear before. I'll elaborate more next time fellas.
Every single person that I know, that has ran a Mugen ecu in their R has wished they'd saved their money. We ran a Mugen ecu on my car (my old 98 R) stock with a GReddy exhaust at the track. Results 14.90 The Mugen ecu was taken off the car and the stock ecu was put back on along with an AEM cold air intake and I ran a 14.42 still using the same street tires and everything. This was on two different occasions to the track on the same exact car.
Case 2 would be a friend of mine with a 2000 R who dyno'd his car with and without the Mugen ecu. He actually LOST hp with the Mugen one. I believe it was a loss of 6 hp. He obviously opted to get rid of the Mugen ecu to some schmuck who would give him top dollar for it.
Sorry I wasn't clear before. I'll elaborate more next time fellas.
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We don't have that OBII or what ever it is on Australian cars.
Reason why the Mugen ECU does jack all or no gains is because it was Pre-programmed for certain mods eg. Header, Exhaust, Intake, Valve springs etc.. Also, note that in Japan there RON is higher. If you had all these mods and had high RON, then yes, it will make a difference. Theres a guy down in Melbourne with a 96 JDM ITR with all the bolt on mods. His running the Mugen ECU with our premium unleaded (98 RON) and his car runs fast and prefectly fine.
I've listern to ITR's with Spoon ECU, Mugen ECU and Power FC... they sound beautiful! they run soo lean and they've got this note in them that i love! Sound completly different to a stock ITR that's for sure!
Reason why the Mugen ECU does jack all or no gains is because it was Pre-programmed for certain mods eg. Header, Exhaust, Intake, Valve springs etc.. Also, note that in Japan there RON is higher. If you had all these mods and had high RON, then yes, it will make a difference. Theres a guy down in Melbourne with a 96 JDM ITR with all the bolt on mods. His running the Mugen ECU with our premium unleaded (98 RON) and his car runs fast and prefectly fine.
I've listern to ITR's with Spoon ECU, Mugen ECU and Power FC... they sound beautiful! they run soo lean and they've got this note in them that i love! Sound completly different to a stock ITR that's for sure!
We don't have that OBII or what ever it is on Australian cars.
Reason why the Mugen ECU does jack all or no gains is because it was Pre-programmed for certain mods eg. Header, Exhaust, Intake, Valve springs etc.. Also, note that in Japan there RON is higher. If you had all these mods and had high RON, then yes, it will make a difference. Theres a guy down in Melbourne with a 96 JDM ITR with all the bolt on mods. His running the Mugen ECU with our premium unleaded (98 RON) and his car runs fast and prefectly fine.
I've listern to ITR's with Spoon ECU, Mugen ECU and Power FC... they sound beautiful! they run soo lean and they've got this note in them that i love! Sound completly different to a stock ITR that's for sure!
Reason why the Mugen ECU does jack all or no gains is because it was Pre-programmed for certain mods eg. Header, Exhaust, Intake, Valve springs etc.. Also, note that in Japan there RON is higher. If you had all these mods and had high RON, then yes, it will make a difference. Theres a guy down in Melbourne with a 96 JDM ITR with all the bolt on mods. His running the Mugen ECU with our premium unleaded (98 RON) and his car runs fast and prefectly fine.
I've listern to ITR's with Spoon ECU, Mugen ECU and Power FC... they sound beautiful! they run soo lean and they've got this note in them that i love! Sound completly different to a stock ITR that's for sure!
...I dynoed my car and lost 6.8WHP across the entire range. I have seen very few cars that have actually gained anything from the Mugen ECU - those who did gain paid the price by averaging 12-18MPG (highway). Not worth it IMO, especially when the "gains" on those few cars could have been duplicated with some basic fuel and timing tuning.
Bottom line - if you're going to spend $1200 on the Mugen ECU, get a Hondata instead. If you're going to spend $200 on the Mugen "chip" spend it towards a VAFC instead. If it makes you feel any better, you can put a Mugen sticker on your ECU for the effect and to impress your friends.
- Slater
Bottom line - if you're going to spend $1200 on the Mugen ECU, get a Hondata instead. If you're going to spend $200 on the Mugen "chip" spend it towards a VAFC instead. If it makes you feel any better, you can put a Mugen sticker on your ECU for the effect and to impress your friends.
- Slater
You should consider a fully programmable engine management system like Motec or Microtec (both aussie made). When tuned you realise the full benefits. The mugen has set non adjustable parameter's which maybe be good for a stock type-r engine, but very bad when you change camshaft's etc.
I second that!
With these tunned ECU's... there is soo much throttle response which helps alot during corners!
My friends ITR (DC2#309) with the Apexi Power FC is awesome! When I was driving it around Winton, the car was soo great that I didn't want to return to the pits.! lol
For the people that have seen his car at sprint days, they would know what I'm talking about!
Microtec is a CRAPPY ECU!!!! specially for track racing! they use it alot on drag cars cause they are basiclly on full throttle 99.9% of the time and don't need precise tunning in the RPM's.
MoTec is one of the best ECU's on the market!
[Modified by Mugen_R, 11:29 AM 1/18/2002]
With these tunned ECU's... there is soo much throttle response which helps alot during corners!
My friends ITR (DC2#309) with the Apexi Power FC is awesome! When I was driving it around Winton, the car was soo great that I didn't want to return to the pits.! lol
For the people that have seen his car at sprint days, they would know what I'm talking about!
Microtec is a CRAPPY ECU!!!! specially for track racing! they use it alot on drag cars cause they are basiclly on full throttle 99.9% of the time and don't need precise tunning in the RPM's.
MoTec is one of the best ECU's on the market!
[Modified by Mugen_R, 11:29 AM 1/18/2002]
Quote: Paying $1,250 for a non-programmable Mugen ECU is retarded.
Every single person that I know, that has ran a Mugen ecu in their R has wished they'd saved their money. We ran a Mugen ecu on my car (my old 98 R) stock with a GReddy exhaust at the track. Results 14.90 The Mugen ecu was taken off the car and the stock ecu was put back on along with an AEM cold air intake and I ran a 14.42 still using the same street tires and everything. This was on two different occasions to the track on the same exact car.
Every single person that I know, that has ran a Mugen ecu in their R has wished they'd saved their money. We ran a Mugen ecu on my car (my old 98 R) stock with a GReddy exhaust at the track. Results 14.90 The Mugen ecu was taken off the car and the stock ecu was put back on along with an AEM cold air intake and I ran a 14.42 still using the same street tires and everything. This was on two different occasions to the track on the same exact car.
So what do you call this? This is what I was refering to!
[Modified by ITRbroham, 7:58 PM 1/17/2002]
My only question would be.....why are people drag racing with equipment meant for road racing (i.e Mugen N1 ECU)?
When I tune cars, I tune to make maximum HP EVERYWHERE in the rpm band.
When I am on a road course, I am almost always above 5000rpm. There are
those exceptions, but even then I want to make the most power everywhere
I can.
I dont tune for just mid range or just top end like you guys do apparently.
Dedicated drag cars will want to tune for the specific rpm band they are dealing
with. But a car that makes more power in the majority of the rpm range will
win. So if the mugen ecu makes more mid range power and loses power up
top then its useless. On my car I lost about 10-20whp from 4000-8600. Would
you want something that did that? I am not saying that this is the way it is on
every car, but just one example.
You need to stop pigeon-holing everything. Power is power, and if it doesnt make
power then you just wasted your money.
So
on you.
I see those 1/4 mile time comparos as a direct result of POWER LOST.
Argue until you die, but FACT is that a stand-alone will be so much better than a pre-programmed Mugen, SPOON, Toda, WHATEVER ecu.
$1,250 for the name?
Argue until you die, but FACT is that a stand-alone will be so much better than a pre-programmed Mugen, SPOON, Toda, WHATEVER ecu.
$1,250 for the name?
My only question would be.....why are people drag racing with equipment meant for road racing (i.e Mugen N1 ECU)?
I think this is the biggest crock of .
When I tune cars, I tune to make maximum HP EVERYWHERE in the rpm band.
When I am on a road course, I am almost always above 5000rpm. There are
those exceptions, but even then I want to make the most power everywhere
I can.
I dont tune for just mid range or just top end like you guys do apparently.
Dedicated drag cars will want to tune for the specific rpm band they are dealing
with. But a car that makes more power in the majority of the rpm range will
win. So if the mugen ecu makes more mid range power and loses power up
top then its useless. On my car I lost about 10-20whp from 4000-8600. Would
you want something that did that? I am not saying that this is the way it is on
every car, but just one example.
You need to stop pigeon-holing everything. Power is power, and if it doesnt make
power then you just wasted your money.
So
on you.
I think this is the biggest crock of .
When I tune cars, I tune to make maximum HP EVERYWHERE in the rpm band.
When I am on a road course, I am almost always above 5000rpm. There are
those exceptions, but even then I want to make the most power everywhere
I can.
I dont tune for just mid range or just top end like you guys do apparently.
Dedicated drag cars will want to tune for the specific rpm band they are dealing
with. But a car that makes more power in the majority of the rpm range will
win. So if the mugen ecu makes more mid range power and loses power up
top then its useless. On my car I lost about 10-20whp from 4000-8600. Would
you want something that did that? I am not saying that this is the way it is on
every car, but just one example.
You need to stop pigeon-holing everything. Power is power, and if it doesnt make
power then you just wasted your money.
So
on you.
The way that I interpreted it, it looked like you were saying it to itr0045 in response to his results about comparing the Mugen vs Stock ecu at the strip...
sorry, that was just my intepretation
sorry, that was just my intepretation
Well I have to put in my 2 cents. I had the mugen ecu for about 2years in my car which is a daily driven street car, and I loved it. On the dyno I gained power everywhere (5.5-8hp), mind you not from just pluggin it in, the car had to be tuned with it. I bought the ecu cause I didnt want the hassle of buying a standalone and then spending countless hours on the dyno trying to find the right combination that would make the best power. Mugen already did most of the tuning for you with their ecu so you just make some minor fuel and timing adjustments and your off and running.
I know everyones car is different but this is what happend on my car. Some will say that standalones are easy to tune but I personally dont know what I am doing with a standalone and I dont trust a dyno person to do it for me but I do however trust mugen.
later
scott
I know everyones car is different but this is what happend on my car. Some will say that standalones are easy to tune but I personally dont know what I am doing with a standalone and I dont trust a dyno person to do it for me but I do however trust mugen.
later
scott
Sorry I'm a bit confussed Scooter...you bought a mugen ecu with remapped feul and ignition curves and installed it and then made "minor uel and timing adjustments" to get it to make power.....sounds like dialing out their adjustments to me.
The biggest downside to the Mugen programs IMO is that they eliminate most of the emissions and saftey I/O in the algorithims...like the knock sensor or 02 sensor inputs. Which is good for a dedicated race car, but not the greatest for a street/track car...I like having a knock sensor at 9k rpms. but thats just me...
-dave w
The biggest downside to the Mugen programs IMO is that they eliminate most of the emissions and saftey I/O in the algorithims...like the knock sensor or 02 sensor inputs. Which is good for a dedicated race car, but not the greatest for a street/track car...I like having a knock sensor at 9k rpms. but thats just me...
-dave w





