You know you are hard core when that’s the first thought that pops into your head when you wake up… But seriously I’ve done a B(16) swap into my 1st CRX (91 Si SE) and was a quite disappointed when I had to use a blunt object to ding in the area for the alternator to fit. I was looking at the other side of the engine bay and to me it seemed that even if I mounted the engine a tad to the passenger side (USDM) 1st off would it fit? Secondly… wouldn’t it throw off the drive shafts? Were the frames different on a USDM and JDM CRX? Taking the example of a regular Integra & a Type R I guess it is very possible but, I’ve imported quite a few ¼ cut CRX’s & Civic’s in the past and didn’t find a difference. I consider myself pretty knowledgeable on all things EF: JDM, USDM and CDM but still I am stumped on this. Anyone have a concrete answer? I’d like to do another swap but because I’m a stickler for a “clean look” I won’t be to happy taking a hammer to my newest EF as I already was sacrilegious on my Si SE.

Don


Don

 

I always figured u had to bang that frame in, in order to work on the alternator so u didnt have to pull the motor out to get to the alternator.

 

Anyone else?... I thought this site was a wealth of info...

 

you missed his question entirely...

 

i think the motor sits further forward on a sir. hence the longer front end.

btw, i've seen people run really small altenator belts, so the altenator is closer, instead of banging the frame.

 

well, pulling the alternator closer with out denting it would cause it to scrape way worse because its more narrow, i think that the jdm models had the left part of the frame made to fit,it may only be aout an inch and you prolly wouldnt even notice the difference, i have to use asuper short belt on my car and half the alt all the way forward,mine is still dented in though and if it wasnt it would scrape.

 

Damn, that's a good question!!!

Is it possible that they locate the alternator differently?

Wes

 

could also be for a safty feature the us did that and put a smaller engine in to make it fit

 

I'm just throwing this out there, I doubt they would make the car diff USDM/JDM in that part cause it would call for different stamping by the alt. However I wonder if they use a diff alt, or alt bracket, possibly just mounted differently. I have no clue but just throwing it out there.

 

I didn't have to bang/dent/modify my frame at all. There was at least an inch of room on all sides.

The only problem I've had so far is the damn belt squealing when its cold. Arg! Talk about irritating.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FairlightRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't have to bang/dent/modify my frame at all. There was at least an inch of room on all sides.

The only problem I've had so far is the damn belt squealing when its cold. Arg! Talk about irritating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which mount kit did you use?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eggman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the motor sits further forward on a sir. hence the longer front end.

btw, i've seen people run really small altenator belts, so the altenator is closer, instead of banging the frame.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think so... JDM front ends have identical mounting locations so it ain't a longer front end. About the belts and alternators... I am sure that changing mounts, belts or the pulley would help BUT!!! if you were to use the OEM JDM ones they should on paper allow for the alternator to fit properly without rubbing or banging need. I guess I'm heading the route of depending the mounting kit you use will allow for this to work but now I'm contradicting what I said about shifting the engine an inch to the passenger side hence throwing off the drive shaft...

 

Don;

If you are busy burning brain cells over this due to not wanting to bash a frame on a future project, why not think about re-locating the alternator to the front of the engine, where the AC compressor would mount. (and make up a heat shield to protect it)

Wes

 

Because I want A/C... I'm difficult just ask my wife. I am gonna have to see the location of different mounting kits. I know HASPORT or HCP will require for a knock but not sure about the others.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FairlightRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't have to bang/dent/modify my frame at all. There was at least an inch of room on all sides.

The only problem I've had so far is the damn belt squealing when its cold. Arg! Talk about irritating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wanna know what kit this guy is using.


Modified by Don at 10:53 AM 2/11/2005

 

Here's what i can tell you from i have seen and understand about b series engines between jdm and usdm cars.

The jdm ef civic/crx with B16A uses much larger mounts than the regular d series mounts found in North American versions. The mounting positions are very close, but "not in the identical position to the the D series ones. The drives one is slightly off in position, and so is the rear using a different pair of mounting bolts for the mount that connects to the T braket off the back of the engine/tranny.

I know some people that just use a shorter altenator belt sucking it up closer to the engine so it won't interfear with the drivers side fender well. I would not mess around with total engine position, because it would for sure compromise the proper fit and life of your axels.

Deetz

 

Don;

I'm running mounts that are dimensionally (it's a long story) the same as Place Racing and only had to hammer in the frame a small amount. (b18c in 89 hatchback)

Try looking over another car and think about moving the alternator upward.

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FairlightRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't have to bang/dent/modify my frame at all. There was at least an inch of room on all sides.

The only problem I've had so far is the damn belt squealing when its cold. Arg! Talk about irritating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd rather have the dent and my belt not squeel imo...

dent it clean, lay a flat solid surface over the area and bash it

and i agree with the differnt mount theory!

 

i am running street import mounts and i did not have to beat my engine bay wall in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thatbluecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with the differnt mount theory!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it's a conspiracy Honda has against us North Americans!!! j/k

 

Doesn't it have to do with the rear mount crossmember? Aren't they different than JDM? There's 2 sets you can mount to. The bolt holes that we use on the B16 mounts are different than the set we use for the D series mounts. Thus moving the motor more towards the drivers side. Right?

 

double post!!!

 

The SiR's mount differently than the USDM cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Don &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think so... JDM front ends have identical mounting locations so it ain't a longer front end. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So if they had the same mounting brackets why cant you use the JDM mounts on a USDM chasis?

The difference is definatly in the mounts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eggman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the motor sits further forward on a sir. hence the longer front end.

btw, i've seen people run really small altenator belts, so the altenator is closer, instead of banging the frame.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm putting my money that this is the correct answer.

 

There is a guy I talk to who is in Holland and has an EF CRX that originally had a D-Series motor in it. The only mount that he had to modify was the transmission mount. The drivers side mount was in the right spot and only had to be opened just a little bit more wide so that the jdm mount would fit. The rear mount fits perfectly if you move it over one notch...the usdm rear crossmember already has the holes for it.

Here is a direct link for the pics so you can see what I am talking about.

http://www.carpcatcher.nl/user...ngine/