here I go! first time welding (to make IC pipes)...
scroll down for updates and new pics
hey guys, I've been a reader in this fabrication forum and now I think it's time to step up to the plate...
here's a look at what needs to be done

as you can see there's a pretty intercooler waiting for plumming. first time building a motor myself, and putting together a custom turbo setup... so I figure hell why not make it my first time welding also
here's the stuff I have to get the job done

so I did some practice welds last night (first time with gas) and I think I'm ready to start on the pipes...
first question, I have .23 solid wire because they were out of .25 and they said .30 might be to big... the pipes are .60" mild steel, will .23 wire work?
2) I hear its a good idea to back purge, but I'm not setup for that. can, or should I weld without back purge? plus as you can see I have the smallest tank and i don't want to make 10 trips to refill it.
3) do you think the radius of the bends are too big for what I want to do? should I get a few smaller ones or mabe a 90deg? or can I make this work with the bends I have? radius is 6" I believe...
thanks for any input I can get
other then that wish me luck and I'll post pics of my progress... I'm sure you guys
can steer me in the right direction
[b] finished! I stayed in the garage all sat night until 3am and just went at it...


I had to grind the hell out of the visable welds because those happen to be my first ones... lets just say I got good at patching up holes, lol.

I made due with the big radius bends
it didn't seem to be that much of a problem. now I have to find something else to weld
let me know what you think of the outcome?
thanks for all the help!
Modified by turbosi03 at 10:56 PM 2/13/2005
hey guys, I've been a reader in this fabrication forum and now I think it's time to step up to the plate...
here's a look at what needs to be done

as you can see there's a pretty intercooler waiting for plumming. first time building a motor myself, and putting together a custom turbo setup... so I figure hell why not make it my first time welding also
here's the stuff I have to get the job done

so I did some practice welds last night (first time with gas) and I think I'm ready to start on the pipes...
first question, I have .23 solid wire because they were out of .25 and they said .30 might be to big... the pipes are .60" mild steel, will .23 wire work?
2) I hear its a good idea to back purge, but I'm not setup for that. can, or should I weld without back purge? plus as you can see I have the smallest tank and i don't want to make 10 trips to refill it.
3) do you think the radius of the bends are too big for what I want to do? should I get a few smaller ones or mabe a 90deg? or can I make this work with the bends I have? radius is 6" I believe...
thanks for any input I can get
other then that wish me luck and I'll post pics of my progress... I'm sure you guys
can steer me in the right direction
[b] finished! I stayed in the garage all sat night until 3am and just went at it...


I had to grind the hell out of the visable welds because those happen to be my first ones... lets just say I got good at patching up holes, lol.

I made due with the big radius bends
it didn't seem to be that much of a problem. now I have to find something else to weld
let me know what you think of the outcome?
thanks for all the help!
Modified by turbosi03 at 10:56 PM 2/13/2005
The radius of the bends do look a little big. Might work not sure though if they dont just pick some up from tunertoys theyre perfect for charge pipes. I would try your though first since you already got the bends. -Nick
You don't need to purge mild steel.
I'd reccomend a lot of practice prior to starting. Optimal is to melt the inside of the pipe on the welds, but not push metal into the inside....and definitely not leave wires hanging in there.
I'd reccomend a lot of practice prior to starting. Optimal is to melt the inside of the pipe on the welds, but not push metal into the inside....and definitely not leave wires hanging in there.
from my experience you will easily be able to blow through regardless of the wire size, so yes one pass is more than enough. Engloid could you give us some info about wire size? I use .023 for my sch40 manifolds, should I go bigger? if so why?
if thats a 135 lincoln try setting it to C-5 and just keep moving but not too fast and you should lay a nice flat bead with good penetration if you fit the pipe with minimal gaps. That tank will last for probably 3 complete turbo kits including making manifolds and DPs so dont worry about running out if its even half full.
that big radius will be hard to make work. i use 3.75" radius bends from summit. they are good quality, inexpensive and ship fast.
http://store.summitracing.com/...&y=12
if thats a 135 lincoln try setting it to C-5 and just keep moving but not too fast and you should lay a nice flat bead with good penetration if you fit the pipe with minimal gaps. That tank will last for probably 3 complete turbo kits including making manifolds and DPs so dont worry about running out if its even half full.
that big radius will be hard to make work. i use 3.75" radius bends from summit. they are good quality, inexpensive and ship fast.
http://store.summitracing.com/...&y=12
well, I have a problem with cutting the pipes nice and flat... I used a right angle grinder with cutoff wheel.


here's some practice welds since I could not do any real welding until I get something better to cut with...

let me know if I'm on the right track with my welds
and what do you guys use for cutting? or do I just suck with the angle grinder
ps: yes it's a lincoln 135 plus


here's some practice welds since I could not do any real welding until I get something better to cut with...

let me know if I'm on the right track with my welds
and what do you guys use for cutting? or do I just suck with the angle grinder
ps: yes it's a lincoln 135 plus
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a chop saw , they cut pritty straight </TD></TR></TABLE>
yup and dont cost much. a sawzall works fine too but it can tricky on thin wall stuff, kinda violent. Ide jsut get a few hacksaw blades and go at it. thin pipe like that is easy to cut with one.
Once you make your crooked cut with the grinder/hacksaw whatever, just grind it flat so the gaps arent as big and uneven.
[QUOTE=Bailhatch]from my experience you will easily be able to blow through regardless of the wire size, so yes one pass is more than enough. Engloid could you give us some info about wire size? I use .023 for my sch40 manifolds, should I go bigger? if so why?[/quote.]
The thinner wire will allow you to weld at lower amperage...giving you the ability to weld thinner material. If you swap to a larger wire, you will need more amperage to burn it (at the same wire speed). In other words, if you're able to ut down a weld as big as necessary with the wire you have, don't bother going bigger. I've welded things 3/4" thick, and multiple pass welds, spray transfer...and with .035" wire...just at a really fast wirespeed.
Advice on the welding posted:
I understand that cutting with a grinder isn't the easiest thing, but take the time to grind it straighter after cutting. Those gaps will really give you fits when you weld it. A gap like that will possibly cause your wire to shoot through the gap, unmelted. This will leave wires hanging on the inside like whiskers. They can later break off and wind up in your engine or turbo. Fit is very important on thin materials.
The welding doesn't look too bad. Notice the weld on the left and the one next to it...the narrow places indicate that you went faster there, then slowed down, allowing the weld to spread out a bit more. You can kinda use the bead width as an indicator of speed, in order to help keep your speed pretty consistent. In other words, go the speed needed and change as needed. Don't just try to go a steady speed, reguardless of what the puddle does.
The thinner wire will allow you to weld at lower amperage...giving you the ability to weld thinner material. If you swap to a larger wire, you will need more amperage to burn it (at the same wire speed). In other words, if you're able to ut down a weld as big as necessary with the wire you have, don't bother going bigger. I've welded things 3/4" thick, and multiple pass welds, spray transfer...and with .035" wire...just at a really fast wirespeed.
Advice on the welding posted:
I understand that cutting with a grinder isn't the easiest thing, but take the time to grind it straighter after cutting. Those gaps will really give you fits when you weld it. A gap like that will possibly cause your wire to shoot through the gap, unmelted. This will leave wires hanging on the inside like whiskers. They can later break off and wind up in your engine or turbo. Fit is very important on thin materials.
The welding doesn't look too bad. Notice the weld on the left and the one next to it...the narrow places indicate that you went faster there, then slowed down, allowing the weld to spread out a bit more. You can kinda use the bead width as an indicator of speed, in order to help keep your speed pretty consistent. In other words, go the speed needed and change as needed. Don't just try to go a steady speed, reguardless of what the puddle does.
ahhh! thanks for the tip Engloid, yeah those welds your looking at are my 2nd and third bead I've ever done since I got the welding gas (and first time on a pipe). I realize my speed is way off when I start, they flatten out because I get a chance after starting the bead to look at the puddle and adjust the speed.
I was trying to do exactly what you said not to... constant speed regardless of puddle. damn what you said makes sooo much sense, I can't wait to go home tonight and try again
anymore tips anyone?
I was trying to do exactly what you said not to... constant speed regardless of puddle. damn what you said makes sooo much sense, I can't wait to go home tonight and try again
anymore tips anyone?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anymore tips anyone?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I forgot one...
On that stuff, try running downhill. Go from about 1 oclock down to 3, then roll the pipe and repeat it.
Yeah, I forgot one...
On that stuff, try running downhill. Go from about 1 oclock down to 3, then roll the pipe and repeat it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, I forgot one...
On that stuff, try running downhill. Go from about 1 oclock down to 3, then roll the pipe and repeat it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is a good one
Yeah, I forgot one...
On that stuff, try running downhill. Go from about 1 oclock down to 3, then roll the pipe and repeat it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is a good one
if you want to clean up your cuts that you did with the zipcut you can always face the pipe with a grinding disk.
to face the pipe first switch to a grinding disk
clamp the pipe into a vise or something so it won't go running away on you or whatever. make sure you can see into the pipe.
now run the grinder into the end of the pipe so that the entire face of the disk contacts the end of the pipe. should straighten it out enough that you can work with it.
to face the pipe first switch to a grinding disk
clamp the pipe into a vise or something so it won't go running away on you or whatever. make sure you can see into the pipe.
now run the grinder into the end of the pipe so that the entire face of the disk contacts the end of the pipe. should straighten it out enough that you can work with it.
yep, I went out and bought a chop saw
works great!

I posted the finished pics up top... but here's a pic showing that I learned not to keep flamable things near where I'm welding
works great! 
I posted the finished pics up top... but here's a pic showing that I learned not to keep flamable things near where I'm welding
hey good job!
im surprised the radius was small enough to do the turbo to IC one. The big radius stuff is actually better for flow so good for you. you should have made a few little beads on the end of the pipe before you painted it. keeps the silicon from slipping off, but usually it kinda sticks to the paint to youll be fine anyway i think.
im surprised the radius was small enough to do the turbo to IC one. The big radius stuff is actually better for flow so good for you. you should have made a few little beads on the end of the pipe before you painted it. keeps the silicon from slipping off, but usually it kinda sticks to the paint to youll be fine anyway i think.
Dustin,
good job on the welding. Something I've meant to get into by haven't had the time. Please pressure test everything so we dont have pipes blowing apart when you come for tuning. I've had that happen before.
good job on the welding. Something I've meant to get into by haven't had the time. Please pressure test everything so we dont have pipes blowing apart when you come for tuning. I've had that happen before.
hell yeah man, thanks! this HT support helps a LOT for someone like me that has never done this before... btw this whole car is a step up to the plate, I never did anything with engines before I got this car. I just put together this entire engine (blueprint block, etc...) and turbo setup myself. it is a great learning experience and I get to top it off with learning how to weld.
this **** is so much fun! Gruvytune, I will see you shortly (thats my tuner)... I will be sure to have the pipes pressure tested, along with extra silicon couplers just in case.
this **** is so much fun! Gruvytune, I will see you shortly (thats my tuner)... I will be sure to have the pipes pressure tested, along with extra silicon couplers just in case.
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phatboycrxhf
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Apr 30, 2007 12:54 AM



notta grinder.. lol i did the saammmme thing on my exhust like 3 different times... pipe cutter is a need. 