I have a 00 accord lx 4 cylinder with headers, exhaust, aem v2 intake, invidia catback, apexi vafc-2. Basic stuff.... I'm looking to give it some boost with ethier an fmax, drag or silverline complete turbo kit. Obviously I'm only going to run it at about 6 or 7 psi max and drive it on the easier side... Is this a good idea? Installed and dyno-tuned its going to run about $4100 worth it? mmm and it says the turbo gives it around 75-100whp is this an exaggeration?

 

I have a 98 Accord with a f23 a1 that's boosted. I have 125,000 on it now and been boosting since 80,000. It's running good so far other then the Vortech fmu going out on me. I got the complete kit with blitz turbo timer, two Blitz pressure gauges and EGT gauge for about $3500 shipped.

 

So it seems to be pretty reliable? My engine only has about 50,000 miles on it but internally is completely stock. How much boost are you running? and what is the whp of your car? I'm having my kit professionally installed. Also what was included in your kit? I'm assuming the fuel pump, boost management, and maybe injectors?

 

I order the Drag kit. Im still using stock internals also. I ordered all the extras such as a Tial wastegate, my Vortech FMU went out so I order a Cartech FMU which is more reliable and your able to adjust your fuel alot better. I also have a S-AFC and Greddy Profec B II. I jet hotted my down pipe, manifold and dump tube to keep down heat. I also wrapped alot of the hosing near the turbo to keep heat down also. I changed out the inline fuel pump for a intank Walbro I think is the brand. I'm still using stock injectors. I've been running 7psi which is about 70hps I think. So, if you figure it out that would be about 200 to the wheels. Because stock to the wheels is around 135 I think.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shwanky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So it seems to be pretty reliable?</TD></TR></TABLE>

reliable & boost do not go hand in hand.

I hope you have a boatload of money.

I'm on motor # 3 already on my 98 accord and it's TOAST already also.

I may have a nice drag kit for sale soon if you are serious.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reliable & boost do not go hand in hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This isn't necessarily true. Go have your engine compression tested. This will tell you if it's capable of handling boost. If it is.... DON'T GO OVERBOARD. Running a modest 7-8 psi until you build your internals, will run RELIABLY.

 

I had my compression tested and apparently its awesome. About 50k back I had the engine rebuilt and threw in new rings,bearings, etc... I heard the drag turbo kit isnt that great.... it uses the map sensor system which i hear from my tuner can be really screwy. Also, how much boost are you running to have killed 3 motors?? have u given up on the turbo for this car yet???

 

I'll be boosting my accord in march with a kit I put together myself. I'd recommend some kind of standalone management, such as hondata, or the free uberdata. Do a little more research and browse the forced induction forum before you jump into anything. Puting a kit together yourself would probably be cheaper and better in the long run.

 

only advice I can give is make sure you have a timing retard module

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TxTuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Running a modest 7-8 psi until you build your internals, will run RELIABLY. </TD></TR></TABLE>

using what management on an F23?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trinitymotors &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only advice I can give is make sure you have a timing retard module</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't waste your money those won't work on the F23, the timing is completely ECU controlled

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shwanky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard the drag turbo kit isnt that great.... it uses the map sensor system which i hear from my tuner can be really screwy. Also, how much boost are you running to have killed 3 motors?? have u given up on the turbo for this car yet???</TD></TR></TABLE>

what "map sensor system"? Sounds like your tuner doesn't know what he's talking about, unless you mean an FMU w/ missing link or check valves.

killed three motors - 1st was with the FMU and then to the AFC hack - running around 7 psi on the FMU, 9 on the hack. Blew cylinder 3.

2nd was on AEM EMS, getting tuned, took the motor to 14psi or so, put down 242 hp/268 trq and the ring lands let go - blew that one GOOD.

JUST swapped that one 2 weekends ago, and the new one has low compression on cylinder 3 already (50%), and the tune was supposed to be good to 12+ psi.

have I given up? just about. did the comp test last night so my decision isn't fully made yet, but I hope you have deep pockets and good mechanical skills if you plan to keep your stock internals.

I can do a motor swap pretty ******* quickly now in a 6th gen.

 

3 motors guess you havent been to lucky i hope i wont go threw the same **** once i got boost, has anyone one herd of probs with boosting v6

 

Hmmmm so you can't retard the f23? dosen't having the timing set too hight, or even stock cause detonation? I talked to a guy at the shop that drives the same car as I very regularly and has for about 50k miles @ 8psi and hasnt have any problems with the stock internals.... perhaps he was ***** footin'? u must have been really reamin on the car to burn up 3 motors?

 

i have a 99 accord 2 door with 122,000 miles on it and am just now putting a custom turbo kit to it right now, and if you get the right fmu, and not necessarily a stand-alone ecu, but a piggy back, or the afc2 or safc2 something like that you will be fine just make sure someone you trust tunes the thing and does checks the engine to see if it will hold and your good to go

 

What is the right fmu? the vortech or something else? my tuner really knows what he is doing... he owns his own dyno shop and does millions of dollars worth of work each year. He works with everything from honda to ferrari.

 

Everyone I know had their Vortech FMU go out on them. Mine took about 6 months before it went out on me. So, I went with a Cartech FMU instead which has a adjustable **** on it. That was the only other FMU I found other then stand alones.

 

you guys are funny talking about FMU's and reliability in the same thread.

 

boosted f23a1 here for about 20k running ~6.5psi on the AFC.

"knock on wood", I have had no problems yet.

Boost IS reliable, is't when you get excessive with it is where **** breaks. Like turning up the boost beyond safe limits of the motor & setup, and your ever growing lead right foot. If you boost within the limits, and respect that fact that you don't need a heavy foot every day, it should last as long as an n/a engine with the proper maintence.

Luck comes into play too, but who can predict that, **** happens.

as far as fuel management on the 6th gen. I've only used the AFC, can't control timing, which is why I'm still at ~6.5psi. I figure, if your not out to build up the block, and have modest power goals, why spend the money on a true standalone. Yes they are better, but not for everyone. The emange seems to be a good middle point, but I'm waiting on a few things before I make the switch.

The real issue is power. How much power do you need vs. want. It's too easy to get caught up with a power trip, and #'s. There will always be someone else that's faster than you. It's just a fact of life. Set you goals and stick with them. If you goals change, then your plan, money spent, and outcome will change also, you have to deal with it. Besides, how much power, USABLE POWER, can be made by our tq happy motors. I've got ~224 to the wheels and I can spin throught first and second. Yes a better suspension setup will help, I'm still stock, but after all modest suspension tweaks are made, it's still the fact that gravity will win every time. Forward motion will make the rear end squat, thus lifting the front wheels, thus decreasing traction.

Sorry for the long rant. Ignore if you will.

 

wow that has to be the most reasonable answer yet, thanks jmal1919

 

okay my car is now in the shop getting a turbo put in.. my question is... i bought a ball bearing turbo not a fluid i believe.. however it uses the oil to circulate through the turbo.. does this mean that its a fluid bearing turbo? I specifically paid more for the better turbo, did i get ripped off?

 

****, i'm and idiot all turbos are oil line fed

 

Yes, they are all "oil line fed" and No, you didn't get ripped off. Ball bearing turbos spool faster creating max boost at lower RPMs and maintaing more boost throughout the power band

 

**** FMU's

i didn't realize different brands are more relieable than others.

uberdata is the way to go