I'm bypassing my IAC in my GSR.

I have rerouted the coolant lines past the IAC, but am still having the idle problem.

If i tap on the top of the IAC the idle changes... so i think the solinoid inside is still giving a reading to the wires/plug and effecting the TPS...

what cna i do to bypass the IAC sensor wires? so that it thinks it's at a warm state of idle?

 

its not a sensor, its a solenoid or stepper motor that controls how much air is entering the engine at idle its shot or the plunger is jammed, or maybe the screen is clogged. take it off and look at it.

 

screen is clean... it's a new IAC.. which leads me to believe that i just want to bypass that contankerous pos...

 

what happend to the days of manual chokes?? and carberators.... sooooo easy to work on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

First off I remember reading somewhere that when you bypass the TB with the coolant lines (Actually heater lines) that you would have problems with idle (obviously) but also with erratic idling--or revving up and down.
Now, if this is true and what you wanna do is trick the ecu into thinking that the IAC is reading the proper voltage is this.
Inside there is a thermal switch, which when heated will produce a 16-18 ohm on the center lead when testing to the other/outside leads of the IAC. Granted this should be a 3 wire IAC given you have an integra.
I would think all you would have to do is fool the ECM or ECU, whatever. Although Im not sure which one to send that impedance to.

NOW, the important thing to know is that the air/fuel ratio is controlled by the IAC system. Now the system consists of the PCM, the fast idle thermo valve and the IAC valve. The IAC valve is activated by the ECM depending upon the running conditions of the engine ( A/C on, power steering, cold and warm running, etc.) The ECM receives info from the VPS, coolant temp, a/c, power steering pressure, etc sensors and adjusts the idle according to the demands of the engine.

So, I would say dont with it since there are so many other variables at play here. Variables meaning sensors that all must work together. AND this leads to the air/fuel ratio of the motor. Now we all know that turbo motors need a specific range of a/f to run properly.

I wouldnt mess with doing this. Besides if all your trying to do is keep the TB temps down than just go with water injection or a larger FMIC.

 

That statement is true, but at the same time it is not. You can get away with bypassing the throttle body on the later vehicles but I dont know what year honda made the conversion. You can find some info here on idel: http://www.hondata.com/techidle.html

art

 

Ok, what problem are you having exactly with your idle? Is it just sitting too low? Why not just set the idle a little high..?

Removing the TB and IAC coolant lines doesn't really affect idle. I've had mine disconnected for a while now and it dips well below freezing at times.

Also, maybe I'm wrong about this, but I would swear the factory IACV was a 2-pin plug..?

-Mike

 

yes it's a two pin plug.

the car idles really low, like 600 and wehn coming to a stop, the idle will drop, almost stall and then slowly go back up to 600.

if i get out and beaton the top of th IAC with a wrench, it will idle higher.. almost like the BRAND NEW IAC is jacked up too. If i tap on IAC again, the idle will change again... so i know it's the IAC.

I'm tired of switching them out.. can't afford tobuy another one... and just want to bypass it.. someone said it's possible.... and that the car just wont idle up when it's cold... I DONT CARE....

<---- very frustrated and this might be my car's undoing... cuase i will trash it and just say fukit....

 

exactly how do you adjust the tps? IAC and stuff mentioned on that site?

 

Ok.. first try adjusting the TPS, timing and TB screw like the site mentions.. Get a voltmeter and check the voltage of the red wire on the TPS. It should read .45 volts. If it doesn't read .45 volts or very close. Take off the TB..

The easiest way to adjust the tps is slot the rivets.. Use a dremel and make a flat cut in the two rivets so you can loosen them with a flathead screw driver. This will allow you to rotate the TPS.. Put the TB back on the car and adjust the tps with the car on until you see .45 volts. Tighten the two rivets back up and double check when you're done that it reads .45 volts.

Ignition timing can affect idle so make sure it's within spec 16-18 degrees.

Look on ur TB itself.. There should be a little flathead screw. It could be hidden behind some silicon or some junk. Turn the screw counter-clockwise to raise the idle or clockwise to lower the idle.

If the idle is STILL low, you can raise the idle by opening the throttle plate a little. Try these things first and let us know what happens.. Good luck!

-Mike

 

The coolant going through the IAC only help it heat up faster so it doesnt
stay stuck in cold weather.

If you are tapping on it and idle changes, chances are its stuck and has a problem.