I need the one listed in Helms for the ITR. Tool # 07MAC - SL00200, 28mm. I have to pull the knuckle to check out the wheel bearings/hubs, and it looks like I'm going to need one. Anyone have a price, or a good place to pic one up? Are there universal removers that will do the trick, or should I stick with the exact part listed above? Thanks!

 

you could actually borrow it from some auto parts store like kragen or napa most big auto parts stores let you rent or borrow them

 

That's true. I hadn't really thought of that. From the picture, it looks pretty simple, so I'm thinking/hoping that it's not too expensive (at least, cheap enough not to have to "rent" or something like that). But borrow, that's an idea. Still, who knows how many times I'll need it in the future, heh, heh.

 

If you have two big screwdrivers you can also use those

 

You are looking for something to separate the ball joint taper from the lower control arm I take it- not a ball joint remover. The Honda tool is very nice and works very well- you could just loosen the castle nut and smack the arm with a hammer like most people. IF you use any other tool (pickle fork) you will most likely tear the ball joint boot.

 

Oh. Helm's lists it as a "Ball Joint Remover," and has instructions for using it to separate the ball joint from both upper and lower ball joints. They list a few other parts for ball joint replacement, but that's not what I need.

I know of the BFH option but I'd like to avoid that since I"m trying to locate a problem, and I don't want to cause any along the way.

 

get the Honda tool if you plan on doing this often- I'm telling you it is nice.

 

Well, I don't want to have to use it often, but I'm all about the right tool for the right job, esp. when damage can have such expensive consequences. However, I'm still looking for a ballpark price, and a good place to pick one up. Dealer? Surely there's a better option.

Thanks for the info

 

you'll have to order it from a dealer most likely- I can find out the price tomorrow at work if you want.

 

That would be great! If you get a price, just post it, IM me, or drop me an e-mail if you get a chance. Thanks!

LOL at Teken.

The BFH, the only tool you really need to remove things, install things, and generally make things better

 

as stated you can rent it at kragen or autozone. all you do is leave a deposit for the retail price of the balljoint remover and when you return it (two day rental) they'll give you your deposit back.

 

Big F%#*ing Hammer works... Loosen the nut leave it on the bolt... to protect the threads.... and give it a really good wack or two (be careful not to bust the nut )
then is should come off easy.... a pry bar might be helpfull

 

Like Crazydave said, Get a big ing Mallet.....a 4lb one from home depot or lowes. Those ball joint tools suck. I have separated ball joints on a 92 dx, 2000 type R and a 99 si, and that tool didnt do a damn thing but make grease drool out. First remove the cotton pin, remove the castle nut and then bang the hell out of the control arm, NOT WHERE THE THREAD is, but on the metal part that comes out. I gurantee you, it will separate very fast.


[Modified by Zynentech, 6:01 PM 1/16/2002]


[Modified by Zynentech, 6:02 PM 1/16/2002]

 

The Honda seperator is the way to go. If you plan on owning and working on Honda's for a while, you will use it more than once. Forget about using any other meathod. The BFH approach is asking for trouble.

Zynentech must be refering to a pickle fork. Yes, they suck and they will squeeze the grease out of the ball joint boot. The HOnda seperator will not.

 

I didn't have such luck. We beat on the lca with a 3.3lb sledge hammer for a good 1/2 hour and it didn't break free. But the pickle fork worked, and it didn't tear my boots.

 

ahh yeah the pickle fork is what i was talking about from discount autoparts. That was a waste of money.

 

The tool lists at @ $166. IF you work at a dealer you can get it for $100. I didn't think it would be that much- damn. IT is a very nice piece and it works every time- I get tired of swinging hammers and I find this tool to be excellent. A parts store separator will just tear up your boots- don't bother. Another way I can separate them is with an air hammer. Loosen the castle nut some, get an airhammer with a socket attachment- use socket to push up on the nut with the air hammer- most air hammers are too ***** to do this- if you have a snap-on ph2050 ($350) it is no problem. Pickle forks are for hillbillies and have no business near a Honda.

 

Damn! So much for saving money by doing the labor myself Maybe I will look for a place to borrow one. Hmmm..

Thanks for checking for me!

 

two swings of the BFH.. and pry with the pry bar.. and my ball joint came right off..
why do you think they have those little raised metal parts on the spindle?
Pickle forks break the boot far to often.

 

you could jack the car up- loosen the nut some(so it is flush with the threads) and place a jackstand under the nut/balljoint. Lower the car enough to apply pressure on the balljoint and hit it a few times with a hammer- this should "break the taper"

 

the ones u borrow at auto parts store is just like a big fork. they suck . you cant find the nice ones listed in the manual but the Honda dealer. and they have to special order it. costs an arm and almost a leg.

 

I got one from JC Whitney. Same style as the Honda, but only about $20 and very crappy. A little grinding and it fit perfectly. Not broken yet.

 

So I rented one of these tonight to get a stripped ball joint out and I can't figure out how to use it.

It looks like a standard C Clamp that I use when I compress my brakes whenever I change pads but it comes with three sizes of sleeves and two round adapters these sleeves fit onto.

The problem is the dust sheild on my brakes keeps the round piece the sleeves go on from fitting around the screw-type part the castle nut goes onto.

Also the part in the c-clamp has a hole in one end but there's a piece that slides down into it... but it's flat onthe end so when we try to compress it the threaded part moves to the side instead of staying straight...

and the second problem with this is the sleeve that I believe goes on the top fits around my new ball joint but won't fit far enough back in the suspension arm to allow the ball joint to pop up through!

This is frustrating the **** out me... can anyone please enlighten me?

Until then I'm off to beat my frustration out on it for ***** and giggles.

Thanks in advance!

--b

 

heres another trick with the bfh technique, hit the side of the control arm next to the ball joint two times, once or twice even on each side, then give it a few whacks, should come right out

 

My problem's getting the actual ball join itself out.

The $50 part from Honda.

I think I'm going to have to remove the caliper and dust sheild... I derno.