Okay, this is an update post for anyone who was trying to help me diagnose my "front end noise" problem. I took 231 in to see a specialist today, and two of my suspicions were confirmed:

1) both front wheel bearings are bad

2) the left (dr) is much worse than the right (ps)

I was quoted $185/ea for parts and labor to replace the wheel bearings, but I was told that I could bring them the two knuckles and they would provide the bearings and press for a lower price (not sure exactly how much). Then, as I was leaving, the mechanic said something that concerned me. He said that, if the bearing has been bad long enough (and indeed, it's been bad for a while) that it might have damaged the hub on the left side, and the hub may need replacing. Not good, so here's my question. How likely is this, and what is the going rate on a new hub? He's supposed to call me back today with a price on the hub, but I don't think I want to know. Labor is not a concern for me since I can do it myself (just need to have them remove/press the bearings) but this hub think is a concern. Anyone?

 

it would have to be REALLY bad to do that.
just pull the spindles out and take them in to be done.

 

LOL, define "REALLY"

For example, when I jack up that corner of the car and shake the wheel, it's solid. The noise keeps getting worse, which provoked the trip to the shop for a definitive diagnosis, but it's not like a bad CVJ or anything, just the typical (loud) wheel bearing whine.

 

Ask sgt about my wheel bearings. LOL. Or the rest of my car for that matter. I'm sure he loves it

Warren

 

if its solid you really think the bearing is bad?
i personally have never heard a bearing whine before.
I jsut check mine periodically for play.

 

Well, perhaps "whine" isn't the best term, more of a wubwubwubwub...but that's the idea. Everything pointed to a bad wheel bearing (or two), but before I pulled it I wanted to get the opinion of a mechanic who could sit in the car and actually listen to it. Both of the people at the shop are certain it's the wheel bearings, even after having it up on the lift to look for anything else I might have missed during my previous inspections at home on jack stands. There's always a chance that I'll get in there and it will be something else, but there's only one way to find out.

I've been asking the question "can the bearing be bad and the wheel not shake" in several threads, but nobody has responded to any of them. The mechanic I saw today said "yes" for what it's worth.

 

And then there's the matter of Warren's car???

 

wheel bearing had enough play to move the wheel about 2"

 

OUCH! Well, at least that's something diagnostic for a bad bearing, so you KNOW what wrong.

Which brings me to my biggest question:

Can you have a bad wheel bearing and still not have the wheel shake when it's jacked off the ground??

 

I suppose anything is possible, but i've never heard of it happening ever.

 

Interesting. Anyone else?

All I'm doing is jacking the corner of the car off the ground, holding the tire at 3 and 9, and trying to shake it (push/pull). Solid. Am I doing it right? Seems fool proof, but you haven't met this fool

Helms mentions a measure of bearing end play. I don't have the necessary gauge to measure this. I assume any Honda dealer would (I don't know if they used it today). Maybe I'll take it a couple more places.

I agree, sgT, I hadn't heard of it before, but my mechanic was completely sure that's what I was dealing with. Hmmmm...

Anyway, thanks for the help!

 

hold at 12 and 6
or 3 and 9
but 12/6 doesnt allow the steering to interfere

 

Tried it both ways...rock solid. Very frustrating...

It looks like I'll just have to pull the knuckle/hub anyway and look around. Can I at least visually inspect the bearing once the whole unit is removed? What am I looking for? This is an area I'm not too familiar with, as you can see.

 

cant see much without separating the bearing.

 

You mean after pressing it out?

 

right.

 

Hey, try backing out the axle nut a few turns and then shake it at 12 & 6 positions.

i have run into bad bearings with no play before. HTH

 

Will do. I was thinking about that, but I wasn't sure since there's no reference in Helms about shaking anything

Why am I not surprised Heh, now I don't know what to expect.

Thanks for the help on this seriously non-exciting topic. You guys rock!

 

fyi, removing the axle nut does nothing.
the axle is connected to the hub and nothing else.

 

do you get your noise all the time? around curves,going straight etc?

does the wheel feel out of balance while driving?

 

are you positive. if you did 12/6 and 3/9 position and it's rock solid, it is NOT the wheel bearing then. if you have play at 3/9, and not 12/6 then it could be the steering tie rod BJ.

 

It started out only at 45+ when sweeping to the right. Now I get it super loud when turning right, fairly loud when turning left, and even a little when driving straight. I get no change in steering feel, unless it's so gradual that I don't notice it. The wheel doesn't vibrate at any time, doesn't jump around, and I don't get any strange feeling in any of the pedals. There is just a slight vibration in the floor, that has actually gotten better as the sound has grown worse (which can't be good).

 

No, I wasn't sure at all, but I did think it sounded like a wheel bearing after hearing other people describe the symptoms/sounds. For confirmation, I finally took it to the mechanic and they said that they were sure it was a wheel bearing. 12-6, 3-9, both solid, no play. I'm going to call them and see why they are so sure it's a bearing. If they have a good reason, I'll post it here and you guys can tell me if it sounds valid or not. I'm also going to take it somewhere else. I think I can get the dealer to check it out for free if I don't authorize any $ work.

 

definitely get a second opinion.

 

I made an apt. with the *cringe* dealer tomorrow to have them check it out. I won't let them work on it, but I want to see what they think it is. But, if it turns out to be a bad ball joint or axle or whatever, I'll still have to pull the knuckle, so maybe we can do this a little bit at a time (I just need to know what parts I need ot order before I cripple my ride).