how much life do you think we can get out of our tilton twin disc cerametalic clutch........... we've only done a total of 5 passes with it........any feedback will help a lot. thanks!

 

Atleast a full season...then just rebuild it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Atleast a full season...then just rebuild it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, just make sure you have it adjusted right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRTechnologies &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yep, just make sure you have it adjusted right </TD></TR></TABLE>

or get the hydraulic release and you dont have to worry about adjusting it

 

Forgive my ignorance, but what is adjustable with a tilton?

Also, what is involved with rebuilding them? Is it something the average enthusiast can do in their garage, or does it have to be shipped off? What does this run $$$?

 

On a cable Trans you have to make sure that there is and air gap between the TOB and the pressure plate. You also have to set a clutch stop so that you do not over throw the springs. I am not sure about the ceramic but with the carbon. You will get 3 plates in .025 inch increments and as the clutch wears you put in the next plate. As for rebuilding it you have to send it out to Tilton. The cut down the carrier and you start all over with the thinnest plate. Cost is not that much and well worth it.

What Trans are you running?


Duck

 

kinda on and off topic anybody know where i can get exedy discs? i can find them anywhere i just need the discs?

 

the clutch is in a h22 but i dont think i ever adjusted it. i really didnt know you had to adjust those clutches. it was running fine with the stock throw out bearing set up. i just had to machine the throw out bearing a little for it to fit in there......thanks for the help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReginaldoAMRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the clutch is in a h22 but i dont think i ever adjusted it. i really didnt know you had to adjust those clutches. it was running fine with the stock throw out bearing set up. i just had to machine the throw out bearing a little for it to fit in there......thanks for the help. </TD></TR></TABLE>

same for the b series. i machined down the stock throw out bearing, but when i installed it the clutch would engage way to low ( like could not shift wiothout force and grind low) but adjusting the pedal linkage saved that. i got their hyd release which is supposed to not need any adjustment

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReginaldoAMRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much life do you think we can get out of our tilton twin disc cerametalic clutch........... we've only done a total of 5 passes with it........any feedback will help a lot. thanks!
</TD></TR></TABLE>It should last very good as long as you don't slip it too much. The working range on the pressure plate is very narrow so you may have to change the next thicker spacer to make up for wear (it comes with three total). The ceramic is not really intended for a lot of slippage (compared to the carbon/carbon for instance) but it still will hold lots of power.

 

what do the spacers look like? i dont think the clutch ever came with any spacers........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReginaldoAMRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do the spacers look like? i dont think the clutch ever came with any spacers........</TD></TR></TABLE>The spacers I am referring to are what contact the diaphragm and push on the top clutch disc (ceramic clutch) or top carbon plate (carbon clutch). The carbon/carbon clutches come with three to allow for wear. I gave Tilton a call though and found out that on the metallic clutches they don't come with extras. It makes sense because the carbon is full thickness and expensive and there are eight wear surfaces (on a twin disc). You wouldn't want to replace everything after only a small amount of wear. However on a metallic clutch the friciton material is only a thin layer on a metal drive plate and there are only four wear surfaces which can be replaced economically. Sorry for the misinformation.

 

its all good..... thanks for the information anyway...... by the way......when are you guys going to come out with a multi plate clutch? i use act clutches in my street cars and ive never had a problem with them. what clutch in your line up would i use in a full drag car? thanks....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReginaldoAMRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...By the way......when are you guys going to come out with a multi plate clutch? i use act clutches in my street cars and ive never had a problem with them. what clutch in your line up would i use in a full drag car? thanks.... </TD></TR></TABLE>I lot depends on how your car and engine is set up. We can hold quite a bit of power on the H22 with our normal stuff. We can hold over 500ftlbs without a problem with out XXR6 kit but the pedal is heavy. We are limited a bit more on the B series to about 500ftlbs maximum because of the size and layout of the clutch. We have some exciting stuff in store for the future but I won't get into specifics here. With the multi-disc setups I have seen out there currently, I think the Tilton carbon/carbon performs the best for drag racing. I don't like the twin ceramic (any brand) because there are too many tradeoffs in design.

 

thanks for the info......is there anywhere i can check out the specs of your new stuff?