Need help: Mechanical question
Ok so I put a Jackson Racing Supercharger on my car last week and when i took everything apart I replaced the factory head studs with ARP headstuds just as a safety thing. When we did so, we didnt drain the coolant or any fluids for that matter. Well we bolted the head back on to factory trq. specs (according to Helms) and then put the supercharger and everything on. Well now that everything is back together, when we go to turn the car on, a lot of white smoke comes from the engine. I am running open header right now because i have not had a chance to get to the exhaust shop to get it welded to the rear section so I am not sure if the smoke is coming out of the header or from around the engine itself. Also if that couldnt be the only thing that would scare the crap outta me... we plug all the factory injectors and the stock ecu for a while just to get it to drive for a couple days until i can get the hondata tuned again, and when we turn on the car it Idle's really crazy. Now the timing has not been adjusted at the distributor yet either. I talked to one of the local Honda specialty mechanics and he said the let the car run for a while because the smoke is most likely from coolant that got into the block because we didnt drain the coolant first. He said to let the car run for a while and clear out all the crud and then worry about the idle problem. When i say idle problem i mean that when i turn the car on, the rpm's will jump from 1000 to 3500 and back down to 1000 and back up and continue like this the entire time the car is on. HELP please.
if the engine hasn't been run in a while it might jsut be from it starting for the first time in a while and needs to be heated up. It might settle down then.
Also, I dunno if you have changed any of the internals like Cams for instance, because the stock ecu won't run many aftermarket cams very well. What else do you have done to the engine?
Also, I dunno if you have changed any of the internals like Cams for instance, because the stock ecu won't run many aftermarket cams very well. What else do you have done to the engine?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR0950 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">because the smoke is most likely from coolant that got into the block because we didnt drain the coolant first. He said to let the car run for a while and clear out all the crud and then worry about the idle problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sound about right with the smoke...
as for the other stuff, why not get it all setup the way you want it then let the tuner worry about getting to run right?
sound about right with the smoke...
as for the other stuff, why not get it all setup the way you want it then let the tuner worry about getting to run right?
Everything other than the supercharger is stock. Still running on stock bottom end, and head is also stock parts. All i've got done is the supercharger with 7-8psi pulley and then intake, header, exhaust and VAFC. I have a walbro 255hp fuel pump but i havent put that in yet because i havent had time to. I have an AEM Fuel pressure regulator also, and havent adjusted the fuel pressure for that yet... but would fuel pressure cause all the problems?
As far as putting everything on and letting the tuner take care of it, I would love to do that, in fact that was my original plan, but my P28 ecu that went with my Hondata is fried from what the tuner told me. So i have to get that worked on or I have to buy another one, and thats going to take a week or two at least before i get it back. Thats why i have to run it like it is on a FMU.
Does anyone have any idea what would be causing the idle problem? Would the Distributor timing really mess up the way the car idles like that? Or would that just be a computer sensor issue or something?
As far as putting everything on and letting the tuner take care of it, I would love to do that, in fact that was my original plan, but my P28 ecu that went with my Hondata is fried from what the tuner told me. So i have to get that worked on or I have to buy another one, and thats going to take a week or two at least before i get it back. Thats why i have to run it like it is on a FMU.
Does anyone have any idea what would be causing the idle problem? Would the Distributor timing really mess up the way the car idles like that? Or would that just be a computer sensor issue or something?
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From: Somewhere in a DC2.... Supporting the ITR Militia, USA
Indeed.... Get your setup together and installed, Then buy the program needed to run your configuration and then let the tuner tune away... That is what "tuners" are paid to do...
Then you will no where there is current/potential problems.....
Then you will no where there is current/potential problems.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR0950 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I replaced the factory head studs with ARP headstuds just as a safety thing. Well we bolted the head back on to factory trq. specs (according to Helms) and then put the supercharger and everything on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't remember the factory torque specs off the top of my head, but I believe that the ARP spec is a bit higher. I torqued mine to 75 ft-lbs. with Moly lube. You may have head gasket issues. It also sounds like you could have an intake manifold gasket leak.
I don't remember the factory torque specs off the top of my head, but I believe that the ARP spec is a bit higher. I torqued mine to 75 ft-lbs. with Moly lube. You may have head gasket issues. It also sounds like you could have an intake manifold gasket leak.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't remember the factory torque specs off the top of my head, but I believe that the ARP spec is a bit higher. I torqued mine to 75 ft-lbs. with Moly lube. You may have head gasket issues. It also sounds like you could have an intake manifold gasket leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I double checked with the other person that helped me put the head back on and he said that we torqued the head down to a little over 70 ft-lbs. So I can't say for sure, but i doubt that its a problem with the headgasket. As far as the intake manifold gasket goes, it was a Hondata intake manifold gasket so if there was a flaw in that I would imagine it would have been visible before we put it on the car. Those things are pretty thick. But i could be wrong.
Any other opinions as to what might be wrong?
I don't remember the factory torque specs off the top of my head, but I believe that the ARP spec is a bit higher. I torqued mine to 75 ft-lbs. with Moly lube. You may have head gasket issues. It also sounds like you could have an intake manifold gasket leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I double checked with the other person that helped me put the head back on and he said that we torqued the head down to a little over 70 ft-lbs. So I can't say for sure, but i doubt that its a problem with the headgasket. As far as the intake manifold gasket goes, it was a Hondata intake manifold gasket so if there was a flaw in that I would imagine it would have been visible before we put it on the car. Those things are pretty thick. But i could be wrong.
Any other opinions as to what might be wrong?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the idle description sounds like j00 have a vacuum leak somewhere</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mmm Hmm....
Mmm Hmm....
Well first of all, shame on you for not draining the fluids! Where's your common sense?
You may have fouled your 02 sensor with all that coolant. Otherwise, it could very well be a sensor that you forgot to plug back in, or a vacuum leak like someone already mentioned.
You may have fouled your 02 sensor with all that coolant. Otherwise, it could very well be a sensor that you forgot to plug back in, or a vacuum leak like someone already mentioned.
Well I guess as an update, I worked on it as much as I could today... Only about 2 hours or so because it started snowing. The engine still has the idling problem, but no more smoke comes from anything any longer. I guess it was just a mixture of condensation, coolant, and oil just burning off. I let it run for about 30 minutes in the parking spot and after about 15 it cleared up completely. As far as the idling problem, I talked to the owner of the shop I had left it at, and he said the same thing. He said it sounded like it was either a really big vacuum leak somewhere or it was a sensor thats messed up somewhere or a hose isnt connected or connected wrong. When we put the motor back together, we couldnt re-use the gasket between the throttle-body and intake manifold... so instead we just used sealant between the S-tube of the supercharger and the throttlebody. Also we didnt have a bolt to go into two of the corners of the throttle body, so we had to bolt up just two of the 4 corners. The two corners are diagonal from each other though so i would think that as long as it was tight, it would be fine. Would that cause the rpm's to bounce from 1k to 3k and back down continuously?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When j00 half-*** things j00 get half-*** results...j00're going to have to trace j00r leak, starting with whatever things were not done correctly...like the t-body install.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea you were asking for it when you didn't drain the fluids. You could have really upset somethign in the engine if fluids got in there. You should check EVERYTHING you did and didn't do.
When j00 half-*** things j00 get half-*** results...j00're going to have to trace j00r leak, starting with whatever things were not done correctly...like the t-body install.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea you were asking for it when you didn't drain the fluids. You could have really upset somethign in the engine if fluids got in there. You should check EVERYTHING you did and didn't do.
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